What to See
La Maison familiale d’Henri Matisse
Bohain-en-Vermandois; musee-matisse.com. Musée Matisse
Le Cateau-Cambrésis; museematisse.fr.
Where to Stay
Saint-Quentin’s Hôtel Particulier des Canonniers ( 33-3/ 2362-8787; hotelcanonniers.fr; doubles from US$110) offers four rooms in a grand 18th-century building.
Where to Eat
Les Jardins de Bohain
( lesjardinsdebohain.fr)
serves sophisticated, seasonal French cuisine in an indoor-outdoor setting. Facing Musée Matisse in Le CateauCambrésis, L’Estaminet du Musée ( fb.com/ lestaminetdumusee)
makes a perfect lunch stop for hearty salads and flamiche, a puff pastry tart prepared with leeks and cream.