Getting There

Air Niugini ( airniugini .com.pg) flies nonstop from Hong Kong and Singapore to Port Moresby, where domestic services provide onward connections to Wewak and Mount Hagen.

Where to Stay

One of six lodges operated by TransNiugini Tours, an outfit that also owns a ninecabin cruiser on the Sepik River, Rondon Ridge ( pngtours.com)

is a modern, 12-room property about a half-hour’s drive from Mount Hagen town. All travel and lodgings described in this story can be arranged through PNG Highlands Adventures

( pnghighlands adventuretours.com),

run from the town of Goroka in the country’s eastern highlands, and Wewak-based PNG Frontier Adventures

( pngfrontieradventures.com).