THE FIRST TIME I SAW
Restaurateur David Yeo’s vivid introduction to Udaipur, India
WORKING IN THE food industry, tasting local cuisines is a huge part of my travels. In 2017, I visited the western Indian state of Rajasthan – my first visit to India in 25 years. Udaipur, formerly the capital of the Mewar kingdom, really stood out to me as that’s where I came across a truly royal cuisine.
The Royal Repast is a restaurant from the House of Bedla, a noble family that’s converted their centuryold home – majestically decorated with shields and ancestral portraits – to serve recipes from the days when they fought alongside the Mughal emperors and served maharajas. The family has cooked for the likes of former Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi and Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II.
One dish after another, our jaws dropped. A dish of okra was simply sautéed with young cumin seeds, salt, garlic and ginger – but the taste was unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere. The use of spices was incredibly judicious, and because they are freshly ground and roasted, the dishes reach an entirely different level.
Another thing that stood out was the kaleidoscope of nuances and symbolism. The saris, gossamer-like veils and turbans are spectacularly colourful, and they also denote special occasions, castes or even seasons. Suddenly I saw clusters of red turbans in a new light.
There is also stunning architecture. In the 400-yearold City Palace, one room is clad in amazing coloured mirrors; in another room, incredible peacock mosaics made from glass resemble paintings; and in another room, a swing fit for a queen: luxuriously embroidered in velvet and suspended from brass chains adorned with a menagerie of animals.
David Yeo is the founder of the Aqua Restaurant Group. aqua.com.hk 我從事餐飲業，因此旅行的重點往往集中於品嚐當地美食。我於2017年前往西印度拉賈斯坦邦旅行，也是我25年來首次踏足印度。烏代浦曾是梅瓦爾王國的首都。這座城市令我印象深刻，因為我在這裡品嚐過最正宗的皇室美饌。
Royal Repast原是當地Bedla望族的百年老宅，其後人在大宅內經營餐廳。東主以盾牌和祖先的肖像畫點綴餐廳，顯得氣派非凡。當年祖先陪同蒙兀兒皇帝南征北討時嚐過的菜式，以及王公貴族專享的佳餚，在這裡都能品嚐得到。前印度總理甘地夫人及英女王伊利沙伯二世等名人，均曾是這餐廳的座上客。
一道又一道的精美菜式，令我們讚歎不已。只是以嫩蒔蘿籽、鹽、蒜和薑清炒的秋葵，味道卻與別不同。香料的分量恰到好處，加上新鮮研磨和經過烘烤，為整道菜畫龍點睛，把味道昇華至另一個層次。
另外，當地的繽紛色調及文化象徵同樣予人深刻印象。絢麗奪目的紗麗、輕薄的面紗和包頭巾會因節慶和種姓的不同而有所改變，甚至有季節之分。突然間，我對紅色包頭巾有了全新的體會。
烏代浦擁有不少宏偉的建築，城市皇宮已有400年歷史，宮內每個房間均令人目不暇給。其中有鑲滿彩色鏡子的房間，另一間房內則有以琉璃拼貼而成的孔雀馬賽克藝術畫，實在美不勝收。此外還有裝飾奢華的韆鞦，絲絨座墊上佈滿華麗的刺綉，以及飾有動物雕像的黃銅鏈，就像為王后而設的寶座。
楊輝強是AquaRestaurantGroup的創辦人。aqua.com.hk