A TALE OF TWO CITIES
History and modernity find a balance in the ancient capital city of Xi’an
An ancient capital for a large part of China’s history, Xi’an, now the capital of Northwest China’s Shaanxi Province, is regarded as one of the world’s four great ancient cities along with Athens, Rome and Cairo.
Formerly known as Chang’an, Xi’an is not just famous for being the capital city during a number of dynasties, it is also famous for being the starting point of the ancient Silk Road.
Considering its long history, it’s only natural that Xi’an boasts a large number of historic sites, especially some rare sites dating back to the Zhou ( 1046BC- 256BC), Qin ( 221BC206BC), Han ( 206BC- AD220) and Tang ( 618- 907) dynasties. These connections to the past have created a unique cultural atmosphere that permeates throughout the city.
For most visitors, the Terracotta Army is a must- see historical site more than a halfhour drive from the city center.
Historical sites such as the Great Wild Goose Pagoda and the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, which housed Buddhist writings in the past, as well as the Tang Dynasty Furong Palace, the Huaqing Hot Springs and Famen Temple are also areas that visitors should not miss.
During the prosperous Tang Dynasty, many foreigners came to the city for trade and to learn about Chinese culture. Emperor Taizong ( 598- 649) ordered an area be set aside for these groups so they could settle down. This area is now known as Hui Fang ( Hui Community). The community is one of the most popular spots for tourists looking to get a taste of local food.
For those with a sweet tooth, you may want to head to Yongxing Fang, where you can find many delicious desserts local to Shaanxi.
Of these relic sites, six are listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, including the Terracatta Warriors, the Great Wild Goose Pagoda, the Small Wilde Goose Pagoda, the relic site of the Daming Palace of the Tang Dynasty, The Site of the Weiyang Palace of the Western Han Dynasty ( 206BC- AD25) and the Xingjiao Temple Pagoda.
City in a city
During my time in Xi’an, I discovered that the city shares many similarities with Beijing, another ancient capital city, such as the way the streets divide the city into squares, the way modern high- rises tower over ancient buildings and the over- commercialization of famous tourism sites. There is one obvious difference – Xi’an still has its ancient city wall.
Built during the Ming Dynasty ( 1368- 1644), the wall lies in the center of the city. Standing 12 meters high and 11.9 kilometers in length, the wall is more than 600 years old and is currently the most complete ancient city wall in China.
Locals call the area inside the wall the “old city.” This is where lies the Drum Tower – widely acknowledged as the center of Xi’an, even though geographically speaking it is not actually at the center of the city anymore since Xi’an has expanded its city areas in recent decades.
It was dusk when I climbed up stairs leading to the top of the wall. What I saw was an amazing scene in which the city’s modern buildings were kept out of the old city by a moat, while within the walls lay squat buildings built following traditional styles.
Tourists can rent a bike and ride around on the wall for 45 yuan ($ 6.50) for a single bike for two hours, or 90 yuan ($ 13) for a tandem bicycle for the same amount of time.
Since I prefer walking, I decided not to take a bike. As I walked along, the scent of flowers caught my attention. Curious, I popped my head out over the wall for a look and saw a wide green belt area nestled between the wall and the moat that was filled with white lilac trees that were in full bloom.
On the old city side of the wall, hostels, inns, galleries, cafes and bars line the wall. All of them are inside buildings modeled after traditional architecture. My guide told me that this area is a favorite among young backpackers and foreigners who want to experience living in an ancient city.
Modern life
Although Xi’an is a city full of history, that doesn’t mean people can’t live a modern lifestyle.
For example, a Xinhua Bookstore opened in 2016 opposite the site of the Tang Dynasty Furong Palace. The entire bookstore is very modern looking with lots of creative space inside. Aside from looking for books to buy, customers can also read, chat with friendsfr over a cup of coffee, study, buy stationaryti or take part in cultural events suchs as lectures. It’s ana excellent place for localslo to hang out on theth weekends.
The Shaanxi Historical Museum is another must- see placep for visitors to Xi’an.X It’s a quick way for visitors to get an overview of theth city.
Among the crowds of visitors at the museum, I saw groups of college students reading the introductions to the exhibits out loud. It looked like they were preparing for some sort of presentation. Grouped into pairs, they took turns explaining the exhibits to each other.
Several locals I talked to told me that you can also see younger kids doing something similar. During some cultural events, children will dress up in traditional Han Dynasty clothing and introduce one or two exhibits to their parents, which “is a really cute scene.”
I later found out that many of the college students were practicing to work as volunteers at the museum, which can provide them opportunities to interact with foreigners since more and more visitors from other countries and regions have been coming to the museum since the start of China’s Belt and Road initiative.
“Many of them see this job as a chance to practice their spoken English and prepare for studying overseas,” Li Chuangjian, a museum employee, told me.
“This way they have the chance to talk with foreigners as they prepare for their oral exams on the IELTS and
TOEFL exams.”