Film and fash­ion

Calvin Klein puts ‘Jaws’ bite in run­way col­lec­tion in New York

Global Times - - Front Page -

Calvin Klein took a bite out of the New York run­way on Tues­day with Bel­gian de­signer Raf Si­mons in­spired in his lat­est ex­plo­ration of the US by Jaws, its glis­ten­ing sur­face and dark un­der­belly.

Mod­els marched down a red­car­peted run­way against a glit­ter­ing video seascape back­drop – all bob­bing yachts, sun bounc­ing off gen­tle waves and a swim­mer com­ing into view.

Sud­denly the sum­mer idyll was shat­tered with the men­ac­ing chords of the theme mu­sic to the 1975 Steven Spiel­berg block­buster, more than 40 years on per­haps still the US’ most iconic sum­mer hor­ror flick.

Mod­els emerged as if straight from the ocean, with wet strands of hair, beads of wa­ter glis­ten­ing on their skin and dressed in wet suits, both long and cropped, the Jaws metaphor la­bored in shark­bite-style slashes on the hem­lines of del­i­cately pleated skirts.

Jaws im­agery was printed on sin­glet T-shirts, as the sound­track to the show flit­ted from the men­ac­ing to the sunny, tak­ing in “Sus­pi­cious Minds” along the way and clos­ing with “Scar­bor­ough Fair.”

Si­mons moved to Calvin Klein two years ago and has been cred­ited with giv­ing the iconic US la­bel re­newed rel­e­vancy, his col­lec­tions div­ing deep into the good, the bad and the ugly of the US.

“The land­scape of Amer­ica – lit­eral and psy­cho­log­i­cal – in­spires Calvin Klein. A jour­ney through Amer­ica leads, in­evitably, to the edge of the land­scape: the beach,” Si­mons wrote in notes for the show.

“At the beach there is this in­cred­i­ble idea of beauty, but also a ten­sion – be­tween land and ocean, a feel­ing of two worlds meet­ing, maybe col­lid­ing,” he added.

“There’s a sense of the un­ex­pected – and al­ways, a temp­ta­tion. For me, Jaws per­fectly ex­em­pli­fies these no­tions.”

Hints at a sav­age world were teased out with plenty of an­i­mal print in bold reds, greens and yel­lows paired with black, and fringed, al­most-tribal style clip-on chest adorn­ments.

Con­trast came from the school’s out look – Cindy Craw­ford’s 17-year-old daugh­ter Kaia Ger­ber walk­ing down the run­way in a blazer and black mor­tar board – a nod to movie The Grad­u­ate.

“Like the film, this col­lec­tion ex­plores taboos and temp­ta­tions, shifts in cul­ture and com­mu­nity, but ul­ti­mately, the over­ar­ch­ing theme is love,” Si­mons ex­plained.

He ran out at the end, blow­ing kisses to cheers and warm ap­plause for his mens and wom­enswear 205W39NYC Spring 2019 col­lec­tion from those in the room, in­clud­ing ac­tor Jake Gyl­len­haal.

Dis­ney and Santa Fe

Coach trans­ported the fash­ion pack to an alien-like mise-en­scene on Tues­day for a spring/ sum­mer 2019 col­lec­tion of prairie-style skirts and fringed suede jack­ets in­spired by Sante Fe and Ge­or­gia O’Ke­effe.

It was Bri­tish cre­ative de­signer Stu­art Vev­ers’s lat­est out­ing for the 77-year-old US leather goods brand, which has only rel­a­tively re­cently moved into ready-to-wear, with muse Se­lena Gomez, 26, front row.

His spring vi­sion stayed true to Vev­ers’s fas­ci­na­tion with the Wild West, with peas­ant-style loose frocks paired with slashed and fringed suede jack­ets and ruf­fled blouses.

There were also hood­ies and T-shirts fea­tur­ing pictures from that other pil­lar of US pop­u­lar en­ter­tain­ment: Dis­ney movies.

The set was some­thing out of 1982 science fic­tion movie Blade Run­ner with a di­nosaur skele­ton­style metal sculp­ture, and a rusted-out Volk­swa­gen Bee­tle, giv­ing Vev­ers his trade­mark con­trast be­tween out­back and ur­ban grit.

The de­signer, who has been at Coach since 2013, summed it up as “as­sem­bling and re­con­struct­ing the craft and spirit of the Amer­i­can look,” and “scav­enged and salved Amer­i­can heir­looms.”

Too cool for school

“A fash­ion show can feel quite stale. We want to make it ex­cit­ing,” said Pa­tric DiCaprio, one of the de­sign­ers at up-and­com­ing New York la­bel Va­quera.

“Hu­mor is very, very im­por­tant in our col­lec­tions.”

The in­de­pen­dent brand founded in 2013 and feted for its orig­i­nal­ity saw vam­pires and zom­bies take over a Man­hat­tan high school with an erotic, gen­der-bend­ing and hu­mor­ous take on style.

Clos­ing with a fan­tasy grad­u­a­tion dress in elec­tric blue with crino­line and Bo Peep­style hat, the show em­bod­ied the cre­ative maxim that the cat­walk is about art and not nec­es­sar­ily about the shop rack.

“The wear­able pieces get sold be­cause the un­wear­able pieces ex­ist,” ex­plained de­signer Claire Sully.

Rel­a­tives, friends and high school­ers, brim­ming with per­son­al­ity, were among the mod­els, and stu­dents were in­vited to watch.

Photo: IC

Mod­els take to the run­way for Calvin Klein’s show at New York Fash­ion Week on Tues­day.

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