ierre Gagna ire’s eponymous restaurant in t he Mandarin Oriental celebrates its 10th anniversary i n 2016, yet it feels as fresh and contemporary as the day it first opened. With chef Jean-Denis le Bras and his brigade flying t he flag, this bastion of contemporary French cuisine continues to excite with a menu that’s quite unlike any other. As anyone who has been t o Pierre will attest, t he format of t he menu, with its veritable “satellite” of dishes for every li sted course, means that each meal will be a symphony of flavours, colours and textures.
Take, for example, the collection titled “Blue Lobster,” which presents the crustacean in a myriad of ways: a fricassée of lobster is coated with an intensely umami coral sauce and thin, translucent squares of flavoured vegetable “films” to create a pop art-esque veil. The delicate flavours of the shellfish are heightened, rather than dominated, by the sweet and aniseed notes of apple and liquorice. The claws, on