Hong Kong Tatler Best Restaurants (Hong Kong / Macau) - - Editor’s choice -

ierre Gagna ire’s epony­mous restau­rant in t he Man­darin Oriental cel­e­brates its 10th an­niver­sary i n 2016, yet it feels as fresh and con­tem­po­rary as the day it first opened. With chef Jean-De­nis le Bras and his bri­gade fly­ing t he flag, this bas­tion of con­tem­po­rary French cui­sine con­tin­ues to ex­cite with a menu that’s quite un­like any other. As any­one who has been t o Pierre will at­test, t he for­mat of t he menu, with its ver­i­ta­ble “satel­lite” of dishes for ev­ery li sted course, means that each meal will be a symphony of flavours, colours and tex­tures.

Take, for ex­am­ple, the col­lec­tion ti­tled “Blue Lob­ster,” which presents the crus­tacean in a myr­iad of ways: a fric­as­sée of lob­ster is coated with an in­tensely umami co­ral sauce and thin, translu­cent squares of flavoured veg­etable “films” to cre­ate a pop art-esque veil. The del­i­cate flavours of the shell­fish are height­ened, rather than dom­i­nated, by the sweet and aniseed notes of ap­ple and liquorice. The claws, on

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