MODERN INTERPRETATION
Under the talented eye of its creative director, John Harrison, Gieves & Hawkes puts a new nautical spin on its heritage for its fall/winter 2018 collection
If there’s one street that encapsulates London’s status as the home of beautifully tailored menswear, it’s Savile Row. And amid the gorgeous townhouses and boutique shops of Mayfair’s famous fashion artery is the most respected tailor of them all— Gieves & Hawkes.
While its commitment to perfect cuts and high-quality material never changes, this season marks a new era for Gieves & Hawkes. The house’s latest collection has paid homage to the brand’s naval heritage—and it’s all been created under the guidance of its new creative director, John Harrison.
Gieves & Hawkes has dressed the British Navy’s officer class since the mid-1900s. And for this fall/winter 18 collection, Harrison immersed himself in the brand’s archives, uncovering long-lost parts of its prestigious naval history. “The archive is a treasure trove of ideas,” he says, “and, in fact, there were too many for one season. We chose the most identifiable marks to relaunch this heritage. Firstly, the crown ships 1771 graphic (a gift from the navy to Gieves). This we will use season after season. For more accents we found the octopus tentacle used on old decanters for rum, so these allowed us to create some dramatic pieces.”
These signifiers will be woven into the entire collection: one that has simultaneously been updated with the latest technology to ensure it never edges towards the old-fashioned. “We worked on combining the archive with modern techniques, such as membrane bonding, seam seal tapes for rain proofing, through to technical jacquards in woven and jersey,” says Harrison. “Packable down and Nano finishes add a technical and modern edge to the collection.”
Given the heritage of this brand and its role as one of Britain’s top menswear houses, tailoring is, of course, central to any collection and the brand’s iconic, structured silhouette is firmly out in force this winter. In contrast to the softer tailoring found in France and Italy, the house style of Gieves & Hawkes has an emphasis on the masculine, with square notched lapels that are wide enough to take full repeats of checked fabrics.
For this collection, suits feature a longer line through the body and sharp pocket flaps create a clearly defined, bold look. Jackets come embellished with octopus tentacle accents and crown ship graphics. And weekendwear has received a similar treatment. The renowned Gieves & Hawkes peacoat is back with a naval makeover and comes in navy and cream shearling with a sophisticated revere collar. Harking back to the house’s past on the high seas, the brand has also launched its Sou’wester coat, which has been cut in a rainproof technical cloth with a naval-inspired panelled front.
“With all heritage brands it is very important to not fall into the heritage trap and rely totally on history,” says Harrison. “So, we constantly assess the intended customer and the current customer. We strive to make all our collections relevant.”