时尚改造New Creative Director of Shanghai Tang explains how globalisation urged his latest brand revamp.上海滩新创意总监解释全球化如何推动品牌最近的革新。
Having freshly taken up the reins this February as Creative Director for Shanghai Tang, Italian designer Massimiliano Giornetti – who was offered the position after designing an impressive spring capsule collection – is set to bring the brand under a global spotlight with a touch of modernity. What became was the Fall/winter 2018 collection.
Not only that, the home-grown retailer is also shifting all of its production from China to Italy, which he admits, is for reasons of quality assurance and ensuring a true fusion of two cultures, rather than just “transforming the company into another Italian brand,” said the 46-year-old Giornetti, who was formerly in Creative Management at the Salvatore Ferragamo Group. “As the world is becoming more global, it’s important to create one unique idea of language by using different elements to connect different cultures.
“The importance of moving the collection and production from China to Italy was to create a dialogue between the East and West, and provide the best quality at the best prices. That’s only possible through the lenses of ‘Made in Italy’.”
Founded in 1994 by Sir David Tang as a bespoke tailor, Shanghai Tang rose to fame after Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung became a big-screen legend in its signature qipao in popular film, In the Mood for Love. In 2008, the brand was taken over by Swiss group Richemont in 2008, which also heads household names like Chloe, Montblanc, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Last year, it changed ownership again to the current Alessandro Bastagli, an Italian businessman who promised to redeem the brand and increase sales by 15-20% in 2019. Giornetti replaces predecessor Raffaele Borriello, who passed from a heart attack.
Helping reach Bastagli's targets is Giornetti’s new collection of Chinese art ranging from textiles to rugs, and porcelain to bronze items spanning different dynasties. It’s one that elicits a dream-like journey from Italy to China via an intensified palette. The previous portfolio of light pink, peach and straw slips are reimagined into fuchsia, tangerine, and imperial yellow on black, complemented with a blend of textiles and overlapping motifs. For example, a quilted Mandarin-collared puffer cape is worn over a leather-belted, black-and-gold top and paired with tiger jacquard pants; while the back of an army-green wind-breaker is clad with a fierce Chinese dragon print.
These fashion revelations, Giornetti said, are born from studying Chinese cultural roots as well as translating style and semantic codes in a radically contemporary way. This explains why the collection is reminiscent of dignitaries from China’s Tang dynasty and Celestial Empire; and why animal prints like snow leopard and cheetahs – which aristocrats brought along on hunting trips – are prominent in the collection.
“I think the combination of studying literature, Spanish and Italian provides a solid background and perspective in my approach to fashion. It gives me the ability to create work that is a sum of different elements and interpretation of my personal vision.”
And with any major revamp, Giornetti knows there will be naysayers, like those who won’t appreciate the new Italian influences. But ultimately, he’s excited for the Chinese luxury brand to advance on the global stage.
“[Our customers] are not buying for necessities. They’re buying for desire and a bigger vision of becoming part of the club. This undertaken adventure is an opportunity for study and professional growth, one that opens up further scenarios and dimensions. Shanghai Tang is a brand that appreciates value, style and attitude, more than just to appeal. It concentrates on quality.”
意大利设计师Massimiliano Giornetti凭籍令人印象深刻的春季胶囊系列设计，于今年2月新上任为上海滩创意总监。他的最新创意结晶—— 2018秋冬系列糅合一丝现代感，锐意令全球镁光灯聚焦在品牌之上。
上海滩是邓永锵爵士于1994年创立的定制服装品牌，随后香港女演员张曼玉在著名电影《花样年华》中穿着其标志性旗袍而成为大银幕传奇，该品牌也随之声名大噪。旗下拥有蔻依、万宝龙、梵克雅宝等家喻户晓品牌的瑞士历峰集团于2008年接管该品牌。去年，品牌再次易主， Alessandro Bastagli成为了新老板，这位意大利企业家承诺在2019年赎回品牌，并将品牌的销售额提高15%至20%。而Giornetti接替因心脏病发而过世的Raffaele Borriello，上任为品牌的创意总监。