Jet Tale

时尚改造New Creative Director of Shanghai Tang explains how globalisation urged his latest brand revamp.上海滩新创意总监解释全球化如何推动品牌最近的革新。

Jet Asia Pacific - - Contents - Writer: Jackie Kwok

成功有道

Having freshly taken up the reins this February as Creative Director for Shanghai Tang, Italian designer Massimiliano Giornetti – who was offered the position after designing an impressive spring capsule collection – is set to bring the brand under a global spotlight with a touch of modernity. What became was the Fall/winter 2018 collection.

Not only that, the home-grown retailer is also shifting all of its production from China to Italy, which he admits, is for reasons of quality assurance and ensuring a true fusion of two cultures, rather than just “transforming the company into another Italian brand,” said the 46-year-old Giornetti, who was formerly in Creative Management at the Salvatore Ferragamo Group. “As the world is becoming more global, it’s important to create one unique idea of language by using different elements to connect different cultures.

“The importance of moving the collection and production from China to Italy was to create a dialogue between the East and West, and provide the best quality at the best prices. That’s only possible through the lenses of ‘Made in Italy’.”

Founded in 1994 by Sir David Tang as a bespoke tailor, Shanghai Tang rose to fame after Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung became a big-screen legend in its signature qipao in popular film, In the Mood for Love. In 2008, the brand was taken over by Swiss group Richemont in 2008, which also heads household names like Chloe, Montblanc, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Last year, it changed ownership again to the current Alessandro Bastagli, an Italian businessman who promised to redeem the brand and increase sales by 15-20% in 2019. Giornetti replaces predecessor Raffaele Borriello, who passed from a heart attack.

Helping reach Bastagli's targets is Giornetti’s new collection of Chinese art ranging from textiles to rugs, and porcelain to bronze items spanning different dynasties. It’s one that elicits a dream-like journey from Italy to China via an intensified palette. The previous portfolio of light pink, peach and straw slips are reimagined into fuchsia, tangerine, and imperial yellow on black, complemented with a blend of textiles and overlapping motifs. For example, a quilted Mandarin-collared puffer cape is worn over a leather-belted, black-and-gold top and paired with tiger jacquard pants; while the back of an army-green wind-breaker is clad with a fierce Chinese dragon print.

These fashion revelations, Giornetti said, are born from studying Chinese cultural roots as well as translating style and semantic codes in a radically contemporary way. This explains why the collection is reminiscent of dignitaries from China’s Tang dynasty and Celestial Empire; and why animal prints like snow leopard and cheetahs – which aristocrats brought along on hunting trips – are prominent in the collection.

“I think the combination of studying literature, Spanish and Italian provides a solid background and perspective in my approach to fashion. It gives me the ability to create work that is a sum of different elements and interpretation of my personal vision.”

And with any major revamp, Giornetti knows there will be naysayers, like those who won’t appreciate the new Italian influences. But ultimately, he’s excited for the Chinese luxury brand to advance on the global stage.

“[Our customers] are not buying for necessities. They’re buying for desire and a bigger vision of becoming part of the club. This undertaken adventure is an opportunity for study and professional growth, one that opens up further scenarios and dimensions. Shanghai Tang is a brand that appreciates value, style and attitude, more than just to appeal. It concentrates on quality.”

意大利设计师Massimiliano Giornetti凭籍令人印象深刻的春季胶囊系列设计,于今年2月新上任为上海滩创意总监。他的最新创意结晶—— 2018秋冬系列糅合一丝现代感,锐意令全球镁光灯聚焦在品牌之上。

不仅如此,这家本土零售商更将其所有生产线从中国移至意大利,他承认这不仅是要“将公司变成另一个意大利品牌”,而是为了提高产品品质,并确保两种文化能够真正融合。46岁的Giornetti之前在Salvatore Ferragamo集团担任创意管理层,他说:“随着世界变得越来越全球化,使用不同元素连接不同文化来创造一种独特的语言概念非常重要。”

“将系列和生产线从中国移至意大利,是为了在东西方之间建立对话,并以最优惠的价格提供最好的质量。这只能通过‘意大利制造’来实现。”

上海滩是邓永锵爵士于1994年创立的定制服装品牌,随后香港女演员张曼玉在著名电影《花样年华》中穿着其标志性旗袍而成为大银幕传奇,该品牌也随之声名大噪。旗下拥有蔻依、万宝龙、梵克雅宝等家喻户晓品牌的瑞士历峰集团于2008年接管该品牌。去年,品牌再次易主, Alessandro Bastagli成为了新老板,这位意大利企业家承诺在2019年赎回品牌,并将品牌的销售额提高15%至20%。而Giornetti接替因心脏病发而过世的Raffaele Borriello,上任为品牌的创意总监。

帮助实现这些数字的,是Giornetti的新系列。这套新系列的灵感来自从纺织品到地毯的中国艺术品,以及来自不同朝代的瓷器和青铜器皿,通过鲜艳浓重的色彩,展开一趟从意大利到中国的梦幻旅程。以往的浅粉色、桃色和稻草色色调组合,演变成紫红色、橘红色和黑底金黄色,并融合纺织物料和重叠图案。比如一件中式领口的蓬蓬外套,里面配上黑色皮革系带;黑色配金色的上衣,配以虎纹提花裤;军绿色的风衣背面,印上狂野的中国龙纹。

Giornetti表示,这些时尚灵感源于对数千年文明文化根源的研究,以及以一种极端现代的方式重新演绎风格和语义符号,因此这个新系列会让人联想到中国唐朝和天朝贵胄,而且与贵族狩猎相关的雪豹和猎豹印花图案也成为这个系列的突出主题。

“我认为结合对文学、西班牙语和意大利语的研究,为我的时尚构思提供了坚实的背景和视角,让我能够创作出结合不同元素和体现我个人愿景的作品。”

Giornetti明白,任何重大革新都会有反对者,比如那些不太欣赏意大利新元素的人。但最终,他对于这个中国高端品牌能够走上全球舞台感到兴奋。

“[我们的客户]不是要购买必需品,而是要满足成为俱乐部一分子的欲望和更大愿景。这次冒险是一次学习和专业发展的机会,开辟了更多的空间和维度。上海滩不仅仅是为了吸引注意,而是一个专注于品质,重视价值、风格和态度的品牌。”

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