Macau retail is all about big names in big casinos, but this sweetie gives you a glimpse of local life plus ‘antiques’. Start at the white Instituto Para Os Assuntos Cívicos e Municipas or Leal Senado / Ave. de A. Ribeiro. Cross the street and walk through the square, past the yellow church on your left, turn left at The Body Shop into Rua da Palha and take the left fork by the tree for busy Rua de São Paulo, heaving with local snacks, antiques n’ repro, try Old House Gallery at #19a. Pause for pics on the steps of São Paulo façade (no need to trek up). Take the left fork for a stroll along a cobbled street lined with shops full of gewgaws and heirlooms, but first, note Macausoul (see Bars) on the right, then Tong Yuk Tong’s ancestral print shop on the cnr with Pátio Fu Van. The street becomes Rua de Santo António and at #6c/6d on the right is Ip Hong Kei / 6686 9527 / antique furny. Amble on to the roundabout, zip left into Calçada do Botelho, which becomes Rua do Tarrafeiro, then left into Rua dos Faitiões, which becomes Rua da Tercena. Potter down, take the right fork into Rua Dos Ervanarios and at the end, walk on, then turn left at Rua Dos Mercadores to find yourself back in the Leal Senado. Diagonally left across the square is Mcdonald’s, turn right here into Travessa Sao Domingos, for Platão / 2833 1818 / closed Mon / with OK local fare; and Caffé Toscana / 2837 0354 / Wed-mon / for pizza and pasta.