Sniffing out China’s Obsession with Durian
They're called the king of all fruits. How did the pungent durian gain such a regal moniker? Perhaps other fruits are just intimidated by its medieval-sized spikes. Native to Southeast Asia, this lethal-looking delicacy has in recent years seemingly taken over China, with last year bringing the largest-ever boom in durian imports to date. The durian is making its way into Chinese and Western fusion as well as a whole variety of desserts.
My mom introduced me to this fruit on one of my first visits to Guangzhou, Guangdong Province, saying: “This is the king of fruits. You'll either love it or hate it.” Before I had my first taste of durian, I thought it smelled like a combination of sweaty gym socks and rotting onions. But after one hesitant bite, I was hooked. The creamy fruit had a distinct sweetness that's not overpowering and a full-bodied umami aftertaste that lingers on your breath for the rest of the day. It's funny how the brain works: After that first bite the durian's aroma changed for me. It no longer smelled like a gross, cheesy sock. It was suddenly fragrant and delicious.
Don't underestimate the durian. It's not here to blend and play nice like apples or oranges; it's a fruit that steals the spotlight. The fruit's intrusive smell has warranted signs in cities like Hong Kong and Singapore among others that specifically ban them from hotel rooms, planes and public transportation. Last year, it even forced 500 students to clear out from a school campus in Melbourne, Australia. Police were called after people suspected they had sniffed out a gas leak. Instead, they found rotting durians.
Last year grocers in China's major cities saw an increase in demand for the stinky fruit, a correlation that some chalked up increases in outbound tourism to Southeast Asian countries like Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. One of things I like to do while traveling is experience local delicacies. I fall in love with the taste of durian on vacations, and when I return home, still crave that sweet remembrance of more relaxing times.
When asked for his take on durian, chef Anthony Bourdain said: “Your breath will smell as if you've been French kissing your dead grandmother.” However, despite years of negative publicity from foodies and chefs, the durian's popularity has managed to grow. In kitchens we're seeing more durian desserts and even some (not so good) savory menu items popping up. Let's put it this way: If you've never tasted durian before, try a lukewarm bite of the fruit to get the full, unadulterated taste. If you fall in love with it, the next step is to explore the wide variety of durian-based food. While there are some bizarre options, like roasted durian covered in cheese, the char-grilled durian and the everso repulsive durian pizza, some are rather delicious. Durian tends to taste great in desserts. Its subtle sweetness enhances favorites like ice cream, crepes, puff pastries and egg tarts.
The next time you're feeling adventurous with food, give this stinker a chance. Just don't do it on a first date, because once you've had a taste, that smell sticks around no matter how many times you brush your teeth.