FLAVOR OF THE MONTH/REAL CHINESE
Most of us usually associate the word “fungus” with a mental image of something unsavory, like Athlete's foot – and nobody wants that in their mouth. But if you think about it, fungus also includes yeasts, molds and tasty mushrooms. You know, it's like when you order a delicious thin crust pizza funghi at your local Italian eatery. That's just a fresh mushroom pizza, and there's nothing weird about it.
But my family is from Northeastern China, also known as Dongbei, where the main fungus that comes to mind isn't the white straw mushrooms found on pizzas. It's black wood ear, also known as cloud ear fungus. Growing up, wood ear made regular appearances at the dinner table, from salads to stir-frys.
It's a northeastern speciality that the region is famous for. The fungus is usually harvested, dehydrated and packaged. To prepare for cooking, you soak them in water for a few hours and watch them double in size as they rehydrate. They're like those “grow your own” toys from the early 1990s, but deliciously edible.
My grandparents insisted that we eat them regularly, claiming that “they scrape off the unhealthy oils from the linings of your intestines.” Since they have a slippery and crunchy texture that I enjoyed, I never questioned him. However, while my grandparents were probably not up to date on the latest scientific research, black wood ear fungus is low in calories and high in fiber. Similar to other fungi, they are high in prebiotics, which feed the friendly bacteria in your gut and help regulate your digestive system. I guess this is where my grandparents got their whole “scraping intestinal lining” idea from.
It's also scientifically proven to be good for your health. Research has even suggested that it lowers your cholesterol, promotes brain health, and helps protect your liver – you know, the organ that takes the biggest hit from all those nights of drinking.
I never used to order black wood ear for its health benefits. It's just one of those things that will taste good no matter how it's prepared. You could literally boil it in water, sprinkle a touch of olive oil and salt on it and eat it as a tasty snack - it's that versatile.
But if it's so tasty and healthy, why isn't it more popular? In the US, its appearance has made it a bit unappealing to the masses. It's a common ingredient in Asian cooking but not in other types of cuisine, which, again, limits its appeal. Earlier this year, the US Centers for Disease Control (CDC) issued a multi-state alert regarding black wood ear fungus after they linked it to a Salmonella outbreak. Unlike the prized white truffle, black wood ear fungus needs to be fully cooked before it can be consumed. Since it's sold in dehydrated form, some fungi-newbies mistake them as cooked.
In the past I've made my own campaigns for black wood ear. Whenever friends come to visit me in China, this little mushroom always makes an appearance during meals as I preach its health benefits. The last time (during the pre-covid days) my college roommate visited me in Beijing, he fell in love with it and brought multiple packets of dehydrated wood ear back home to Portland, Oregon to share with friends. I see a bright hipster future for this humble ‘shroom.
For those who've yet to try it, you're missing out. It's time to put on some music and get fungi with it!