The Sweet Smell of Stinky Tofu
Have you ever thought to yourself, “This smells like an unflushed toilet, I wonder how it tastes?” Well, I never thought I’d say that, yet here we are.
After 10 years of living in China, whenever I catch a whiff of stinky tofu, I can’t help but inhale extra deep and wonder how it tastes. That, my dear, is what falling in love with stinky tofu feels like.
Stinky tofu is one of those Chinese foods that has an unfortunate name. There are multiple types, each made differently and with varying levels of stinkiness.
Let’s start with the most basic stinky tofu – fermented bean curd. It comes in a jar, and you can essentially buy it at any local supermarket. This style is creamy and usually spread on steamed bread (mantou) or added to plain rice. But get ready, the smell is pungent! Crack open a jar on a warm day and you’ll have your neighbors wondering what crawled up and died.
The culinary legend goes that the invention of fermented bean curd was purely by accident. After failing the imperial exams in Beijing, scholar Wang Zhihe sold tofu to make a living but was unsuccessful. Not wanting to waste all the unsold tofu, Wang cut them into cubes and jarred them. Then he forgot about them, or he didn’t take the fermentation into account, depending on the version of the story. However, when he finally opened them after many days in storage, one thing was for sure – the smell was overpowering. However, instead of tossing it all out, he tried it. To his surprise, his stinky creation actually tasted amazing, and he began selling it in Beijing.
Much like fine wines, the taste of stinky tofu varies based on how long it has been fermented. Longer periods produce more flavor-filled organic compounds, plus nutrients such as isoflavones, which exhibit antioxidant properties.
Now, like with most food anywhere in the world, the store-bought option is most likely not going to blow your mind. Thankfully, there’s another type that I took a chance on and essentially fell in love with at first bite.
Fried stinky tofu is usually sold at food carts that specialize in it, and you know when one is in your neighborhood. Unlike fermented bean curd, stinky tofu is light, crispy and best served hot out of the fryer. Many places in China have their own spin on this reeky treat. In Southwest China’s Sichuan Province, stinky tofu comes with a tongue-numbing spicy sauce, whereas in Central China’s Hunan Province, they marinate the tofu in a brine that causes the tofu to turn black.
So, stinky tofu is edible. But what’s the appeal?
If scent could have a texture, this food would have it. One bite and the intense flavor of stinky tofu fills your entire mouth. Yes, it might smell, but the fermentation gives the tofu an unparalleled umami flavor that’s difficult to describe in words, but such is love.