Robo-chefs the Spyce of life at Boston restaurant
Robots can’t yet bake a souffle or fold a burrito, but they can cook up vegetables and grains and spout them into a bowl — at a new fast casual restaurant in Boston.
Seven autonomously swirling cooking pots — what the restaurant calls a “never-before-seen robotic kitchen” — hum behind the counter at Spyce, which recently opened in the city.
Push a touch-screen menu to purchase a US$7.50 meal called “Hearth.” A blend of Brussels sprouts, quinoa, kale and sweet potatoes tumbles from hoppers and into one of the pots. The pot heats the food using magnetic induction, then tips to dunk the cooked meal into a bowl. Water jets up to rinse it before a new order begins.
Is this a robot chef or a hightech novelty machine? Experts differ, but more such automation is likely headed for the fast-food sector in coming years. A report last year by the McKinsey Global Institute said food preparation jobs are highly vulnerable to automation because workers spend so much time on predictable physical tasks.
Currently, there’s one big thing holding back the chefbots: “The human labor also tends to be lower-paid,” said McKinsey partner Michael Chui, making it less economical to automate those jobs. But that could change as businesses develop cheaper and more efficient robot chefs.
Spyce has those, and automated order-taking kiosks to boot, although it still employs plenty of humans. Founded by four former MIT classmates who partnered with Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud, the restaurant has hired people to do the trickier prep work — parboiling rice, rinsing and chopping vegetables, cutting meat and reducing sauces in an off-site commissary kitchen.
But the mesmerizing machinery, equipped with dozens of motors, sensors and moving parts, is the real draw.
“The openness of the design was something we knew we wanted from the beginning,” said co-founder Brady Knight. “It is kind of a show. It’s fun to see what’s going on behind the scenes. We didn’t want to hide anything because we think what we made is pretty cool.”
Automation in the food industry isn’t new, though it’s often unseen by customers. Think of the chocolate factory conveyor belt that led to comedic mishaps in a famous “I Love Lucy” episode in the 1950s, or machines that wash dishes and brew coffee.
There was also the early 20th century fad of waiterless “automat” cafeterias that served hot food when customers fed a coin to open a glass door. But while food processing machines are prized for their speed and hygiene — “our robot doesn’t get sick,” Knight said — they have a harder time handling the complexities of fresh food.
In Mountain View, California, the founders of Zume Pizza spent years tinkering with a robotic kitchen that can form pizza dough, apply tomato sauce and transfer the pizza in and out of the oven.
Other jobs that require more dexterity and judgment — such as layering on toppings — are left to humans, and the robot only performs tasks it can do dramatically better, CEO Alex Garden said.
Garden said his philosophy is that “automation exists to improve the quality of human life,” so he invests savings from the increased productivity in higher wages for employees and higher-quality ingredients for customers.