Shanghai Daily

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE WITH STINKY TOFU

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good,” said Judy Wang, a Shanghai local who enjoys fermented tofu.

Congee and fermented tofu can also be a comforting late-night snack before bed.

A little goes a long way, it’s sufficient to dip the tip of the chopsticks to pick up a tiny bit of fermented tofu. Never eat a mouthful of fermented tofu because the overwhelmi­ng saltiness could destroy the beauty of the condiment as well as the palate.

Let’s take a quick look at how fermented tofu is made.

The intriguing condiment hailed as “Chinese cheese” is creamy and briny with a unique wine flavor gained from the fermentati­on process.

The technique of tofu fermentati­on was created in ancient China, but the exact time is unknown. Fermented tofu became popular in the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), and the scale of production was quite large at that time.

Fresh tofu that is cut into small cubes is arranged in wooden boxes at 15 to 18 degrees Celsius to maintain a certain level of humidity so mold would start to grow on the tofu over the first two days. Five days later the pieces would be covered.

Traditiona­l methods cannot control the quality and type of mold, hence the quality of the fermented tofu fluctuates, but modern production in a strict bacteria-free environmen­t inoculates the good mold to avoid cross contaminat­ion of other cultures.

The next step is spreading one layer of salt in between two layers of tofu cubes, which are arranged in jars and sealed with another thick layer of salt on top for an eight-day fermentati­on process. The salt separates water from the tofu to harden the texture and inhibit the growth of the microbes while preventing the tofu from going bad.

Brine is the crucial element in making fermented tofu because it determines the flavor of the final product. Composed of Chinese wines such as yellow or rice wine, or sorghum liquor, alongside spices such as peppercorn, star anise and cassia, the tofu cubes are soaked in the brine to absorb the flavors.

The whole process looks quite easy, and there are people who try to make fermented tofu from scratch at home using firm textured tofu that won’t break up easily when immersed in liquid.

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