Poke­mon, pres­tige and pre­co­cious youth wows Fash­ion Week

Shanghai Daily - - STYLE -

Poké­mon prints, khaki, flow­ing cuts and a raft of young tal­ent were among the stand­out fea­tures of Men’s Fash­ion Week in Lon­don, which ended on Mon­day af­ter three days of cat­walk shows.

With the big names of Bri­tish fash­ion, most no­tably Burberry, aban­don­ing the men’s ver­sion of Fash­ion Week in fa­vor of pre­sent­ing mixed col­lec­tions dur­ing the main event, the path was clear for young de­sign­ers to make their mark with their fall/win­ter 2019 wardrobes.

Nige­rian-born de­signer Mowalola Ogun­lesi, who grad­u­ated in 2017 from the pres­ti­gious Cen­tral Saint Martins, was one of those to grasp the op­por­tu­nity.

Ogun­lesi, stylist on a re­cent video for the rap­per Skepta, dis­played his col­lec­tion un­der the ban­ner of the Fash­ion East tal­ent in­cu­ba­tor.

On the menu, a sexy and in­ven­tive wardrobe cel­e­brat­ing African cul­ture with tawny pat­terns and tight trousers with low waists in khaki, blue and grey.

Christo­pher Rae­burn pre­sented his eco-fash­ion wardrobe, marked by so­phis­ti­cated can­vas pants and win­ter parkas worn with Cuban caps.

Green gave way to olive at Hus­sein Cha­layan’s show and his min­i­mal­ist, geo­met­ric wardrobe that in­cluded trousers made of re­mov­able parts to adapt to the weather.

The Turk­ish-Bri­tish de­signer’s muted cam­ou­flage palette was bro­ken by bold flashes of flu­o­res­cent yel­low. Also play­ing on con­trasts, Dan­ish de­signer Astrid An­der­sen matched tra­di­tional au­tumn brown with vi­brant blue azure, as though wel­com­ing the sea­son’s first flakes of snow.

Flu­id­ity was the watch­word for young Bri­tish de­signer Craig Green, with his col­lec­tion of light­weight and com­fort­able rain­coats with over­sized hoods like bridal gowns. Com­pa­triot Ed­ward Crutch­ley showed off his more High Street friendly col­lec­tion, re­veal­ing his Ja­panese in­flu­ence with long, ki­mono-style jack­ets.

He de­scribed the col­lec­tion as rep­re­sent­ing “a sar­to­rial, no-frills at­ti­tude” where “sig­na­ture roomy sil­hou­ettes have been slimmed down in homage to the no-non­sense tai­lor­ing of mid-1980s Ja­panese and Amer­i­can” ready-to-wear.

Bri­tish de­signer Bobby Ab­ley ce­mented his rep­u­ta­tion for play­ful­ness by min­ing Ja­panese car­toon phe­nom­e­non Poké­mon. Pikachu, Char­man­der and Squir­tle, three crea­tures from the fa­mous fran­chise, adorned sweat­shirts and jog­ging pants, worn with Docs Martens and stet­sons. Events took a darker turn with Chi­nese de­signer Xan­der Zhou, who drew on his own “fears” with in­trigu­ing com­bi­na­tions of faux fur in a yeti style, com­plete with shark fins and wolf masks.

Bul­gar­ian Kiko Kostadi­nov took an un­set­tling path with his col­lec­tion in­spired by cult hor­ror film “Ring” (1998). Like the ghost that haunts Hideo Nakata’s fea­ture film, his mod­els marched with their faces hid­den by long black hair. Uni­sex la­bel “Art School” sur­prised the Lon­don pub­lic by parad­ing men in dresses and miniskirts for its very first solo show at Fash­ion Week.

(AFP)

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