Shanghai Daily

Conquer your fear of eating insects

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the remote mountain forests in Yunnan where the climate is favorable for the growth of the delicate fungi.

One can find more than 200 species of edible mushroom in the southweste­rn province and thanks to advanced logistics, restaurant­s and supermarke­ts in Shanghai are able to enjoy fresh deliveries of mushrooms at more affordable prices than before.

In Yunnan, the ultimate way to enjoy mushrooms in the summer to early fall season is mushroom hotpot, which easily serves a dozen types of wild mushrooms cooked in delicious chicken soup or mushroom soup.

As for the highly valued matsutake mushroom, fresh harvests are eaten raw or lightly sauteed with some butter.

Steam pot chicken is a super light dish in Yunnan cuisine that steams fresh chicken in a special steam pot to produce a clear and flavorful chicken soup.

The sealed vessel can preserve the original flavor of the chicken and only minimum seasoning such as salt and ginger are used.

Spicy and sour flavored dishes are also well loved in Yunnan, like the very appetizing grilled fish seasoned with lemon and chilis.

Mixian, or rice noodle, is an important staple in Yunnan. Among the different types of rice noodles, the fermented suanjiang mixian is the most popular locally.

Nationwide, Yunnan’s guoqiao mixian, or “crossing the bridge” rice noodle, is the most well-known. The rice noodles, toppings and hot broth are served separately. The soup is stewed from pork bones, chicken and Yunnan ham.

Eating insects is also a distinct feature of Yunnan cuisine. Many ethnic groups have a tradition of eating insects and some even host festivals in celebratio­n. Insects are high in protein and can be delicious once your fear is conquered.

Insect-based dishes are served in authentic Yunnan restaurant­s, and the taste and texture of the various insects differ. In Shanghai, you can find the more common varieties, such as deep-fried crickets in some Yunnan restaurant­s.

Chinese ham and cheese

When talking about Yunnan cuisine, one cannot overlook the amazing local hams crafted with high-quality pig hind legs. The dry-cured ham resembles the shape of pipa, a traditiona­l Chinese musical instrument and the best ones are made in Xuanwei, Nuodeng and Heqing.

When visiting Yunnan villages, one can see hams hanging under the roofs and the delicacy is enjoyed in many ways from appetizer to even the dessert. The hams produced in different parts of Yunnan highlight different pig breeds, techniques and flavors.

In general, the Yunnan ham highlights a sweet, umami flavor against the intense saltiness from the salt used to preserve and age the meat, which is also quite soft and tender. A simple way is to cook the aged hams simply with rock sugar to further enhance the sweetness, and it can be paired with rubing, a local cheese.

The traditiona­l Yunnan ham mooncake is a famous product of the province that’s not just eaten during the MidAutumn Festival. The crust of the mooncake is smooth and not oily, presenting a contrast to the rich, succulent ham filling. Salted duck egg yolks and sugared rose petals are also incorporat­ed in the delicacy. The ham is steamed before being wrapped in the flour crust to add moisture.

Xuanwei ham is widely known to Chinese people. Only local pigs with high muscle and fat quality are used to achieve the authentic flavor. The pig hind legs are salted three times before they are put in a ventilated chamber for around a year.

Its competitor, the Nuodeng ham, is a traditiona­l delicacy made by the Bai people living in the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, where the clean environmen­t and excellent water contribute to the high quality of the ham. Here, the hams can be aged for three years and above, and the ham makers must use local slat and pigs.

Yunnan is also home to prominent Chinese cheeses, particular­ly the rushan and rubing made by the Bai people, who live in an ideal environmen­t of meadows and grasslands to raise cows and goats.

The Bai cheeses are coined “Mozzarella of the East” in the article “Mozzarella of the East: Cheese-making and Bai culture” by Bryan Allen and Silvia Allen of SIL Internatio­nal.

Rushan, the milk fan, and rubing, the milk cake, are two different cheeses made with different ingredient­s. The thin, long sheets of the cream-colored rushan cheese is made with fresh cow’s milk that’s warmed in a wok before acid water is added to achieve the milk curds, which is separated from the whey. The curds are then shaped into cakes by hand before being rolled around sticks and stretched into a fan shape.

Rubing, on the other hand, can be made with goat’s milk, which is more traditiona­l yet stronger in flavor. After adding souring agent to the boiled milk, the white curds separated from the yellow whey are scooped up and poured into a cloth to press tightly and squeeze out the excess whey, when the rubing looks like tofu, it’s ready to eat.

Rubing can be sauteed and eaten with sugared rose petal sauce, or deep-fried as a quick snack.

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 ??  ?? Yunnan cuisine is known for the diversity of ingredient­s and flavors, from dry-cured ham to everyday staple dish it has something for everybody. — Hellorf and IC
Yunnan cuisine is known for the diversity of ingredient­s and flavors, from dry-cured ham to everyday staple dish it has something for everybody. — Hellorf and IC
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rubing
— Hellorf
Grilled rubing — Hellorf
 ??  ?? Deep-fried rushan — IC
Deep-fried rushan — IC

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