Shanghai Daily

How to answer that daily question

- Li Anlan

What’s for lunch?” is a question asked almost every weekday by office workers. It’s difficult to find the ideal lunch from the restaurant­s listed in the delivery apps that have already gotten tiring, and packing your own lunch is a big project requiring planning and extra cooking time that must be fitted into a busy schedule.

Skipping lunch is not a good idea, even though some people eat their breakfast quite late. Skipping a meal is harmful for the body and especially the metabolism. One may feel weak in the late afternoon and eat too much food for dinner as compensati­on.

Snacks are not an ideal alternativ­e, as most snacks are “empty calories” that don’t provide a feeling of fullness, yet add huge numbers of calories to the daily consumptio­n.

Cookies, crackers and biscuits are especially bad ideas. A couple of crackers might be a good snack between meals, but replacing lunch with a whole packet of crackers is adding too much sugar and fat to the body.

For example, the Jiangzhong Hougu cookie marketed as a ‘healthy meal replacemen­t” is said to contain monkey head mushroom, but the top ingredient­s of the cookie are ranked as flour, sugar, butter and oil. Every 100 grams of the cookie contain 20.3 grams of fat. That accounts for at least one third of the recommende­d daily intake.

The savory cookies may not contain much added sugar, but check the nutrition informatio­n label for the amount of fat, the result might be astonishin­g, as well as the high amount of sodium which is harmful to the heart and veins.

As the Spring Festival holiday is over and everyone is back to answering the lunch question (and to lose some of that holiday weight), here are some options and guides on choosing a healthy lunch.

Restaurant, cafeteria and delivery

Going to restaurant­s or ordering delivery are many people’s solution to workday lunches. With dine-in one can get away from work for an hour to enjoy some personal time, and deliveries are quick and hassle-free.

Dining in the cafeteria is a preferred and more economical choice for people working in companies that operate cafeterias during lunch and dinner hours. The menu might not be interestin­g but most cafeterias have a good range of vegetables, staples and meat dishes to cater to different tastes.

To eat healthy in restaurant­s, cafeterias or with deliveries, it’s simply about avoiding some “red line” items that provide the body with fat rather than nutrients.

It’s known that fried chicken and spring rolls contain lots of fat, but the deep-frying technique is used widely in Chinese stir-fries. Such as the sweet and sour pork loin that fries the meat in advance before coating with a sauce (which is also mostly sugar and oil as ketchup is usually used to enhance the flavor), or malaxiangg­uo, the hot and spicy pot that seems healthy with its huge number of vegetables, but the rich flavor actually comes from deep-frying the ingredient­s in advance before stir-frying with a chili sauce.

The local favorite youbaoxia, a glossy sauteed shrimp dish, is also deep-fried and very greasy.

One vegetable that requires some extra caution is eggplant, as many stir-fry recipes involving the vegetable require frying them in lots of oil to achieve the meaty texture, and the spongy eggplant can absorb much more oil. Eggplant salad with a light vinegarbas­ed dressing is usually the healthy choice, as the soft texture is achieved by steaming the vegetable.

A lot of lunch sets offer simple soups and beverages to go with the meal. A humble tomato and egg drop soup or nori and dried small shrimp soup is great, while juices come with more sugar. The hearty, thick cereal and grain drinks featuring black sesame, taro, Job’s tears, red bean and more are great for winter, but they may contain quite some added sugar to elevate the flavor, so ask the staff in advance for more informatio­n.

With noodle dishes, the key is to select better toppings. The stir-fried toppings with a great, visible amount of oil floating in the dish contain unhealthie­r fat, alongside more condiments including salt.

Lighter-flavored broth is also healthier than the heavily spiced soups, which can contain an excess amount of sodium and fat and it’s not very wise to drink it up, especially with the spicy noodle dishes.

Dumplings, buns and wontons with less fatty fillings can make quick lunches that provide

Today’s feature food article offers a guide to pragmatic workday lunches in Shanghai. There are countless palatable solutions including noodles, rice dishes, dim sum or even junk food. I often opt for a sandwich unfortunat­ely sans the wine. Save for special luncheons with winemakers, clients or celebrator­y occasions, I’ve mostly sworn off workday daytime drinking. The notable exception is when I’m visiting wine regions. Nonetheles­s, wines at lunch accompanie­d by classic sandwiches can be eminently enjoyable. Let’s take a look at the advent of the concept of lunch and the invention of the sandwich.

Developed regions of the modern world have adopted the practice of three meals a day with lunch being in the middle. It wasn’t always that way. The Romans largely did without lunch instead having their major dinner meal in the late afternoon. These empire-builders might have enjoyed occasional snacks, but considered it was unhealthy and gluttonous to have more than one meal a day. In the Middle Ages people woke up and went to sleep much earlier as they followed the rhythms of natural light. Peasants working the fields ate their dinner about noontime while the aristocrat­s typically dined a few hours later.

In fact, the word lunch didn’t even enter the modern English vernacular until the mid-18th century and was a rarely used word until the 19th century. The industrial revolution and widespread use of electricit­y radically changed everything. Laborers worked longer hours and electricit­y allowed the poor and affluent alike to prepare food and dine after sunset. Lunch became an essential fixture between breakfast and dinner.

With few exceptions the modern workday lunch is built around convenienc­e and practicali­ty. Sandwiches, especially in the west, became one popular solution. Many credit John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, with inventing the sandwich in 1762. This tale tells of a gamble-loving earl who never wanted to leave the betting table, and one day when hunger hit, he beseeched his servant to bring a slice of salted beef between two pieces of bread so he could continue gambling with one hand and eat with the other. The practice was adopted by other nobles who would simply say, “give me the same as Sandwich.” While most certainly the namesake, this popular style of food far predates the earl’s existence.

The first recorded sandwich in history dates back to AD 1 when the Jewish rabbi Hillel the Elder. The rabbi may have popularize­d this food but he’s almost certainly not the creator. Breadcrumb­s were identified in a 14,400-year-old archeologi­cal site in present-day Jordan and it takes no great leap of imaginatio­n to think that these primitive peoples didn’t place

other edibles in and around their pieces of bread. Montagu himself most likely got the idea from his travel to the Eastern Mediterran­ean where locals had long been putting meats, cheeses and other foodstuff between layers of unleavened flatbread.

Now to my rare, but much beloved treat of pairing wines with sandwiches. Let’s get something clear, the sandwiches you get at coffee shops and convenienc­e stores are sandwiches in name only and don’t merit the company of wines. On the other hand, classics like the Reuben, Club, BLT, Croque-Monsieur and other certainly deserve the company of wines. A personal favorite, the humble tuna salad sandwich prepared with tuna in olive oil, capers and mayo always accompanie­d by a large kosher dill pickle also benefits from a proper wine. Fortunatel­y, there exists a style of wine that pairs beautifull­y with almost every kind of sandwich.

Provence

As a child every August my family would travel to Provence in the south of France to revel in the sun, sea and beaches and savor regional gourmet delights with local wines. Good white and red wines are made, but first and foremost, Provence is the land of rose wines that account for nearly 90 percent of production.

Abundant sunshine and cool winds promote long gradual ripening of the grapes that in turn result in intensely fresh and aromatic wines. The hot, dry and windy climate makes it easier for producers to be organic or biodynamic. In color, aromas and on the palate, the Provence style of rose is subtler and more nuanced than Spanish and New World styles. The color ranges from pale peach to light pink and the aromas are less overtly fruity and more floral than roses from other regions. Provence rose wines almost always offer a mouth-puckering bracing acidity that makes them brilliant companions to fish and cheese sandwiches as well as those wonderfull­y greasy Pastrami, Reuben and Philly steak sandwiches.

The principal AOC regions, AOP in EU lingo, of Provence are Cotes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence, Les Baux de Provence, Palette,

Isacs is the founder and CEO of EnjoyGourm­et, a leading gourmet digital (www.enjoygourm­et.com.cn) and print media company in China. He has authored over a dozen wine and food books including the awarded ISACS Guides and other gourmet books and is a wine consultant to government­s, wine regions and organizati­ons. He also hosts wine events for leading organizati­ons and companies throughout China. Contact John via jcolumn@ enjoygourm­et.com.

Bellet, Pierrevert and Bandol — the last somewhat idiosyncra­tically being primarily a red wine region.

One perfect Cotes de Provence rose to accompany a wide range of gourmet sandwiches is Chateau La Tour de l’Eveque Petale de Rose. This elegant blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and smaller contributi­ons of four other varieties offers ripe strawberry and nectarine aromas with floral notes and a fresh, slightly spicy palate with a light tannic touch. Two additional enchanting rose wines from Chateau La Tour de l’Eveque are the La Source Gabriel and Rosarte Rose. Other Provence rose producers to look for include Saint Aix, Estandon, Gabriel Meffe and Miraval. Recent vintages down to the exceptiona­l 2015 vintage have all been good to excellent.

An overstuffe­d 3-inch (7.6 centimeter­s) thick Tuna salad on rye bread and a classy glass of Provence rose — oh yeah don’t forget the kosher dill. Truly one of my all-time favorite lunches.

 ??  ?? Deciding what’s for lunch during the week can be a challenge for office workers, especially finding healthy options. — All photos by Hellorf
Deciding what’s for lunch during the week can be a challenge for office workers, especially finding healthy options. — All photos by Hellorf
 ??  ?? Stir-fried noodle with vegetables
Stir-fried noodle with vegetables
 ??  ?? Curry rice with fried pork chop
Curry rice with fried pork chop
 ??  ?? Simple salad
Simple salad
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 ??  ?? The resplenden­t autumn colors of a Provence vineyard — Ti Gong
The resplenden­t autumn colors of a Provence vineyard — Ti Gong

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