People flock to Cape Town for its beauty, but to feel the pulse of Africa you need to spend a few nights in Jozi, as Johannesburg is known. It is a city of migrants who come to seek their fortune in the City of Gold, bringing with them the flavours from kitchens across sub-Saharan Africa. This, then, is the most reliable place to sample authentic pan-African cuisine, from the sophisticated Epicure, helmed by Burundian-born chef Coco Reinardz, to the virtually all-vegan delights served family-style by chef Sanza Sandile in his Yeoville Dinner Club.

It’s also the best place to come to grips with South Africa’s past: the

Apartheid Museum is edifying, moving and inspiring, documenting as it does the people’s liberation from oppressive rule. Or take a step way back into our collective past at the Origins Museum or the Cradle of Humankind, an area about 45 minutes from the city where scientists keep unearthing clues, the most recent being a hominid skeleton thought to be about 3.67 million years old. To really get to know the city, join the locals at one of the pavement tables in chi- chi Parkhurst, explore the bars along grungier Melville’s 4th Avenue, or – a personal favourite – spend the evening on pedestrianised Fox Street in downtown Maboneng. Because in the City of Gold, the people are the pulse.


開普敦的懾人美態吸引遊客慕名而至,要但 真正感受非洲的都會魅力,則非要在人稱「約堡」的約翰內斯堡逗留數天不可。約堡為移民城市,人們前來這個「黃金之城」希望在此淘,金 同時將撒哈拉沙漠以南的非洲地區菜式一一帶來,令這裡成為美食大熔爐,因此這裡不愁沒有正宗非洲風味佳餚你。可在Epicure餐廳品嚐由布隆籍迪 主廚Coco Reinardz主理的精緻美,饌 也可到Yeoville Dinner Club餐廳嚐遍主廚Sanza Sandile炮製的家庭式素菜餚佳 。

約堡也是上南非歷史課的最佳課室:種族隔離博物館如實展示人們從高壓統治中獲得解放自由的震撼史料,讓遊客有所得著和啟。發 不過假如你對人類的久遠過去感興趣,不妨前往距離約約堡 45分鐘程車,又之稱為「人類搖籃遺址」的Origins Museum博物館一遊。科學家至今仍不斷於該處發掘出史前文物,而最新出土的則是估計約有367萬年歷史的原始人骸骨。

若要更深入了解這城市,可嘗試到訪故作風的雅 Parkhurst區,在那裡的路邊餐與廳 當地人搭;訕 或到Melville區氣氛較狂野的4th Avenue大街,在酒吧小酌一杯。至於個人推介,必數在Maboneng市中心的步行街Fox Street消磨一個晚。上 在這個黃金之城,市民才是其魅力所在。

Energy centre The Apartheid Museum (above left and right); Fox Street in Maboneng (below)

種族隔離博物館(左上及上圖) ; Maboneng區的Fox Street步行街(下圖) 活力重鎮

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