MANY FACES OF MEDAN

棉蘭綠野大門

SilkRoad - - CONTENTS 目錄 - WORDS 撰文 RANDY MULYANTO許隆意 PHOTOS 圖片 MATTHEW OLDFIELD

Culturally fascinating and surrounded by natural wonders, Indonesia’s Medan is Cathay Dragon’s newest destination

MEDAN, INDONESIA’S THIRD LARGEST CITY, IS NOT ONLY A RICH MELTING POT OF CULTURES BUT ALSO AN ENTRY POINT TO THE WILD NATURE OF NORTH SUMATRA. WITH CATHAY DRAGON STARTING FLIGHTS TO THE BUSTLING METROPOLIS LAST MONTH, YOU CAN EXPERIENCE ALL 10 OF OUR REASONS TO VISIT

印尼第三大城市棉蘭不但是文化熔爐,更是探索蘇門答臘北部大自然生的態 門戶。國泰港龍航空上月正式開通飛往這個繁華大都會的航線,一起體驗十個到訪當地的由理

With its glassy surface and surrounding mountains, it’s easy to see why Lake Toba has been included in the Indonesian government’s ‘10 priority tourism destinations’. The lake (four hours by car from Medan) is the country’s largest to result from a crater, and it’s the largest freshwater reservoir, with a depth reaching 505 metres. Tongging Village is located on Lake Toba’s periphery and is an accessible spot to have a closer look at the lake. Stroll through the streets to enjoy the quietness of the farming community.

Lake Toba also presents a cultural side on Samosir Island, which sits in the middle of the lake. It takes about half an hour to get to the island by ferry from the main pier, in the town of Parapat. Once on the island, visitors can check out the

Tomb of King Sidabutar and watch a Sigale- gale funeral dance, which involves a life-size wooden puppet as one of the characters. Inspired by the story of a king’s son who died on the battlefield, the performance is accompanied by traditional music of the Batak (a North Sumatran ethnic group).

謐湖畔多峇湖

明淨如鏡,山巒環,抱 難怪成為印尼官方十大旅遊景點之一。它距離棉蘭四小時車程,是印尼最大的火山口湖及淡,水湖 水深達505米。來到多峇湖畔的Tongging村,遊人可近距離欣賞迷人的湖光山色,步或漫 於大街小巷,感受純樸的村農 氣氛。

沙摩西島坐落於多峇湖中央,只需從Parapat小鎮的主要碼頭乘坐渡輪,約半小時便可抵達,是體驗當地文化的勝地。沙在 摩西島,訪客不妨前往King Sidabutar王的眠長 之地King Sidabutar

王墓,並觀賞Sigale- gale葬禮舞蹈,其中一角由真人大小的木偶演出,以蘇門答臘北部少數民族巴克塔 的傳統音樂伴奏,講述王子戰死沙的場 故事。

2 SLICE OF INDIA

Home to the largest ethnic Tamil community in Indonesia, Kampung

Madras is known as Medan’s Little India. Indians’ history here dates back to the mid-19th century, when the Dutch colonialists sent Indian workers to the area, mainly as construction workers. Craving some roti canai flatbread? The stalls in this neighbourhood are sure bets for this and numerous other Indianinfluenced dishes. If you’re in town during a big Indian festival, you’ll find all the vibrant celebrations here.

印度風情

Kampung Madras是泰米爾族在印尼的主要聚居地,有「棉蘭小印度」之稱。印度人遷居當地的史歷 可追溯至19世紀,中 當時荷蘭殖民政府將印度工人送往該區興建樓房。想品嚐印度煎餅和其他受印度文化影響的美食?到這裡的攤檔準沒錯。若適逢印度重大節慶,更可體驗精采繽紛的熱鬧慶祝活動。

3 SOME LIKE IT HOT Berastagi,

In about two hours from Medan, spa junkies can go for a hot spring dip at the foot of Mount Sibayak, thanks to its crater filled with sulphurous water. Many hike to the crater on the active volcano for steam-enveloped views, then head to the relaxing sulphur pools found at

Semangat Gunung village. The minerals in the water are supposed to be good for the skin, and many visitors enjoy the springs late at night because they believe it’s a more effective healing experience.

護膚溫泉

距離棉蘭約兩小時車程的Berastagi鎮是水療迷的天堂,當地的西巴亞克火山不斷湧出含硫磺的泉水,讓旅客可在火山腳下泡溫泉。不少遊人選擇徒步到活 火山口觀賞氤氳繚繞的人間仙境,再到Semangat Gunung村浸泡舒緩身心的硫磺。池 他們相信池水中的礦物具有護膚功效,深在 夜時浸泡事半功倍,村所以 落在夜裡特別熱鬧。

4 FASCINATING CHINESE HERITAGE

Born in China’s Guangdong province, Hakka Chinese Tjong A Fie established several businesses in Sumatra, producing sugar and palm oil. What earned him widespread admiration, however, was his funding of public facilities in Medan such as bridges, schools and places of worship. His residence, the two-storey Tjong A

Fie Mansion, is open to visitors. Built in 1900, the restored property occupying one hectare shows off a number of living rooms, the master bedroom, a photo gallery and a ballroom with their original furnishings. Tjong’s older brother, Tjong Yong Hian, was also involved in the city’s development, and his life is honoured at

Tjong Yong Hian Gallery, a museum that houses memorabilia such as old photos, clothing and musical instruments that belonged to him. The compound’s garden is the highlight, consisting of ponds and manicured hedges.

中華之光

祖籍國中 廣東省的客家人張阿輝,在蘇門答臘經營不同業務,生產砂糖及棕櫚油,但他最為人稱頌的是資助棉蘭興建大橋、學校及宗教場所等公共設施。樓高兩層的

張阿輝故居現開放予公眾參觀。這座建於1900年的宅邸佔地一公頃,修復後客各個廳、主人房、相片廊及宴會廳均保留原有的陳設。他的哥哥張榕軒亦不讓弟弟專美,為 當地的發展貢獻良,多 張榕軒博物館展出了他的舊照、衣物及樂器等紀,致念品 向其敬。博物館建築群的花園特別得值 一遊,那裡設有多個池塘和悉剪心修 的樹籬。

5 COMFORT FOOD

Medan has a rich culinary scene, with influences from Batak, Chinese, Indian, Malay and Minang (an ethnic group from West Sumatra) cultures. Kedai Kopi Apek, across from Pasar Hindu (Hindu Market), is a shop offering coffee that uses Arabica beans sourced from the North Sumatran town of Sidikalang. Toast with homemade kaya (coconut egg jam) is prepared on a firewood stove.

If you prefer something more filling, try soto medan, a Medan-style soup made with coconut milk. RM Sinar Pagi on Sei Deli Road has been selling the dish since 1962. You can choose beef or chicken for the protein, and it’s all served with perkedel kentang (potato patties), white rice and sambal.

Don’t miss Bihun Bebek Asie on Kumango Road. It serves Chinese-style duck vermicelli soup with a generous portion of shredded duck meat in duck broth, along with fried garlic and mustard greens.

窩心美食

棉蘭的飲食文化五味紛陳,融合巴塔、克國度中 、印 、馬拉及米南(蘇答西門 臘 部一個少數民族)的特色。Pasar Hindu印市度集對的面 Kedai Kopi Apek咖啡室以位於蘇門答臘北部小鎮詩地加蘭的咖啡馳名,採用當地的小果咖啡豆,調泡 伴以柴燒爐烤焗自製的 家 咖央(椰子蛋醬)多士,滋味無窮。

如想品嚐更飽腹的美,食 不妨試試以椰奶烹調的棉蘭湯品soto medan。位於Sei Deli大道的RM Sinar Pagi餐廳於1962年開業,食客選可 配牛肉或雞肉,再佐以馬鈴薯餡餅、白及飯 參巴醬。,此外 千萬別錯過Kumango大道的Bihun Bebek Asie餐廳,小店主打中式鴨肉米粉,鴨湯中有大量鴨肉絲、炸蒜及芥菜,風味甚佳。

6 WATERFALL ADVENTURES

A massive eruption that took place about 74,000 years ago resulted in Sipiso-piso Waterfall, located in Tongging village, at the northern tip of Lake Toba. Walk down the hundreds of steps paved into the landscape to reach the 120-metre waterfall’s bottom. Also well known is the Two

Colours Waterfall. Located in Sibolangit district, it’s famed for its blue and greyish-white colour gradations. Getting there requires a two-hour trek through the forest – perfect for nature lovers.

瀑布奇觀

約74,000年前的一次大規模火山爆發,形成了多峇湖北陲Tongging村內壯觀的Sipiso- piso瀑布。梯沿天 拾而級 下,便能到達120米下的瀑布底部。,此外 坐落於Sibolangit區的雙色瀑布同樣聞名遐邇,吸引遊客慕名而至,觀賞由藍色漸變成灰白色的潺潺流水。瀑布位於森林內,需要步行兩小時方可到達,適合熱愛大自然的旅客。

7 JUNGLE TREKS

About 3.5 hours from Medan, the jungles of Bukit Lawang offer eyeopening treks, with the chance to see rare Sumatran orangutans. Part of Mount

Leuser National Park, the village is home to an orangutan rehabilitation centre. During a guided trek, visitors are also likely to spot long-tailed macaques, indigenous Thomas’ langurs and gibbons. All of the guides here are local residents, so the trekking operations are an important source of income for the community.

叢林穿梭

Bukit Lawang熱帶距蘭叢林 離棉 約3.5小時車程,要只 踏上其遠足路徑,便有機會一睹罕有的門臘蘇 答 猩猩,大眼開 界。村莊屬於Mount Leuser國家公園的一部分,是猩猩保育中心的所在地,在導遊帶領下,遠足 旅也客 有機會遇到長尾猴獼、土生土長的托馬斯氏葉猴及長臂猿。這類遠足導賞團是整個村落的重要收入來源,並由原住民擔任導遊。

PALATIAL GRANDEUR

Apart from its Chinese and Indian heritage, Medan also preserves its Malay cultural ties. Established in 1891 by the late ruler of the Sultanate of Deli, a Malay and Muslim sultanate that no longer rules in Sumatra, Maimun Palace incorporates Indonesian, Persian and European architecture styles. It has 40 rooms, as well as a prison in the basement. Visitors are invited to change into traditional Malay clothes, available at one of several stalls inside the palace, with fees depending on your choice of fabric quality and accessories.

堂皇宮殿

棉蘭除了與中國和印度文化頗淵有 源之外,亦保留了馬拉的文化根源。馬來回教的德利皇朝蘇丹曾統治蘇答門 臘,其統治者於1891年興建了馬伊姆王宮,宮殿糅合印尼、波斯及歐洲建築風格。王宮共有40個廳房,牢地 設有獄牢。遊人可在王宮內的攤檔租借馬來傳統服飾,收費則視乎所選擇的布料品質及配而飾 定。

Breathe deeper Lake Toba is a gem near Medan (this picture); the city is an access point for rain forest treks (top); Hindu temples showcase an Indian influence (opposite)氣吞山河 多峇湖是毗鄰棉蘭的自然瑰寶(本圖);棉蘭是雨林遠足之旅的起點(上圖);印度教寺廟展現了印度文化對當地的影響(對頁)

Spirited sites Bukit Lawang (this picture), home to orangutans (right); Buddhist pagoda Taman Lumbini (below); inside the Great Mosque of Medan (far right); Berastagi’s fruit market (bottom right)心靈風景Bukit Lawang熱帶叢林(本圖)是蘇門臘答 猩猩的聚居地(右圖);Taman Lumbini佛寺(下圖);內觀棉蘭大清真寺(最右圖); Berastagi水果市場(右下圖)

Newspapers in Chinese (Traditional)

Newspapers from China

© PressReader. All rights reserved.