FRANKFURT’S NEW PULSE

法蘭克福的重生

SilkRoad - - CONTENTS 目錄 - WORDS撰文 MELISSA TWIGG

How the Bahnhofsviertel is turning the financial centre from cold to cool 法蘭克福新脈搏 Bahnhofsviertel區的金融中心如何轉型

LIKE MOST MAJOR cities, Frankfurt’s reputation precedes it. But unlike cool, creative Berlin or old-world, upper-crust Munich, the stereotypes attaching to Germany’s finance hub are not particularly flattering. The clustered steel-and- glass skyline leads some people to call it ‘Mainhattan’, describing its location along the river Main. As the home to the German stock exchange and 300 banks, it’s also called ‘Bankfurt’.

So far, so safe. But in recent years, wellkept, well-behaved Frankfurt has emerged as an unlikely competitor to Berlin for the title of Europe’s cool kid.

跟不少大城市一,蘭樣 法 克福獲得的風評言過其實。可是這個德國金融中心有別於創意破格林典的柏 和古 高尚的慕尼黑,其固有形象並不特別吸引。美茵河畔高樓林立的景觀讓人稱當地為「美茵克頓」,亦因為德國證券交易所和300家銀行選址在此,被人冠以「銀行克福」的稱號。

雖然至今看似風平浪靜,但保養得宜和循規蹈矩的法蘭克福近年來卻成為黑馬,有望挑戰柏林,成為歐洲的潮流之都。

舊活區 化是歐洲熱話,各國首都的舊區陸續蛻變成為潮人聚腳地,咖啡不但取代了另一種物品成為大家瘋搶成癮的對,象 秘魯餐廳和曼克頓風格的雞

Gentrification is a buzzword in Europe. Previously run- down districts in capitals across the continent are transforming into hipster havens where caffeine addicts are rapidly replacing addicts of another nature, and Peruvian restaurants and Manhattanstyle cocktail bars are pushing out corner shops and immigrant-run restaurants.

The destruction of working-class culture in major hubs is undoubtedly cause for concern, but in the Banhofsviertel (meaning ‘train station quarter’), Frankfurt’s red-light district that runs from the central train station to the glistening skyscrapers of the banking area, the rough edges remain very much in place, with the city’s less salubrious professions and pastimes still clustered around six streets.

Today, however, they rub shoulders with the stylish new art galleries, shops, clubs and bars that have made this neighbourhood their home, providing a sharp, unusual and appealing contrast.

‘ The special atmosphere to me at Bahnhofsviertel is how international it is; I’d argue it’s one of the most mixed places in all of Europe,’ says Ralf Seinecke, the owner and curator of Galerie Rundgaenger, which exhibits work by emerging artists in a cool, contemporary space just 100 metres away from a busy rehab clinic.

‘Bahnhofsviertel cuts across all classes, and all scenes, from bankers to hipsters,’ he continues. ‘Bahnhofsviertel is a mess, but it is a beautiful mess. There is no point trying to change it too rapidly or to preserve it as it is now, as it is the mix of fluidity and flexibility, unpredictability and spontaneous order, that makes it special.‘

This combination is indeed intoxicating, with artisan beer shops packed with young, affluent Frankfurters spilling out into the night, art galleries holding glittering vernissages and chefs from Michelinstarred restaurants happily living alongside its continuing red-light world.

But it hasn’t always been this way. ‘What is interesting about Frankfurt is that it was actually very cool in the 1980s and ’90s,’ says James Ardinast, who, along with his brother David, has launched a series of restaurants, bars and art events in the heart of the Bahnhofsviertel.

‘Back then, it was one of the cities where techno music was really happening, and people would come here for the great clubs. But then around the year 2000, Berlin became the hotspot in Europe for everything creative and the imaginative people of Frankfurt all moved there. As the hype around Berlin grew, we lost our identity and only became known for bankers and skyscrapers. Back then, my brother and I were always complaining about how boring the city was, so one day we said, let’s do something about it.’

尾酒吧更如雨後春筍,接管街角士多和新移民開設的餐館。

藍領文化在大城市遭受破壞無疑令人擔憂,,不過 在法蘭克福紅燈區Banhofsviertel(解火站)作 車 區 ,即由中央火車站延伸至宏偉摩天大樓林立的銀行區一帶,當中的六條街是進道仍 市內行不見光的交易及消遣的集中地,粗獷不羈的個性至今並沒有太大改變。

現在這些地方已與同樣視該區為家的新派藝廊、商店、夜店及酒吧並肩立而 ,而正正是種這 鮮明和不尋常的對比,讓此地更加引人入勝。

藝廊Galerie Rundgaenger既前衛又富時代感,這裡定期舉行新晉藝術家展覽與, 人來人往的戒毒復康診所相僅距 100米。創辦人兼策展人Ralf Seinecke表示:「我覺得Bahnhofsviertel區相當國際,化 令我無比驚;訝 我敢說,這裡是洲歐 最兼容並蓄的地方之一。」

他道「續 : Bahnhofsviertel區打破了階級和職業的疆界,無論銀行家或潮人都愛在此流連。雖然這區是個大雜燴,但有獨方 其 特之美。我們無須求追 頃刻改變,或者刻意保留其原貌,因為這裡的靈活多變、無和常隨機的秩序,正是獨其 特之處。」

這些形容詞結合起來的確非常吸引。輕年 富裕的當地人在晚擠上 滿一眾手工啤酒吧,藝廊舉行精采紛陳的私人預展,而米芝蓮星餐級 廳的大廚則樂於與紅燈區為鄰。

可是過去其實並非如此。James 與David Ardinast兩兄弟於Bahnhofsviertel區核心地帶開設一系列餐廳、酒吧,並舉辦各式藝術活動。James說:「有趣的是,其實法蘭克福在1980至90年代曾經大放異彩是流, 潮 重鎮。」

他表示:「法蘭克福是當時掀起電子音樂風潮的城市之一,因此自來各地的樂迷都會特地造訪這裡有名的夜店朝聖。及至2000年左右,柏崛林起成為洲歐 的創意之都,法蘭克福富才華的居民紛紛遷居當地。隨著柏林的風頭日盛,我們失去了光環,這裡最廣為人知的事物只剩下銀行與家摩天大廈。那時候,我們兄弟倆經常埋怨我城單調乏味,於是有一天忽發奇想,誓要幹一番事業改變現狀。」

這番豪言壯語絕非空談。他們首先開設了一家以芝加哥猶太裔黑幫命名的熟食店、咖啡館兼雞尾酒吧Maxie Eisen,並出售稱堪 全德國最美味的熏牛肉三文治。然後二人躊躇滿志地創立了小餐館Stanley Diamond,為客人供應美精 本地菜式, 括當地馳名的法蘭克福青醬伴烤牛肉。他們更於區內以鍛鐵建成的古老購物街上,每月舉辦藝術市集Taunusstrasse Arts & Bites Festival。

They did, opening Maxie Eisen, a modern deli, cafe and cocktail bar named after a Jewish gangster from Chicago and selling what must be the best pastrami sandwich in Germany; an ambitious bistro called Stanley Diamond serving local dishes like roast beef with Frankfurt’s famous local green sauce; and the Taunusstrasse Arts & Bites festival, a monthly art market in one of the Bahnhofsviertel’s ancient wrought-iron shopping passages.

‘My father loves good food and, unlike many other kids who grew up here, we used to come to this area all the time to eat at the Vietnamese, Turkish, Moroccan and Thai places you still see out there,’ says Ardinast, gesturing out the window to a street scene so culturally varied that only the fluffy floating snowflakes suggest our northern Europe location.

‘ That’s why we wanted to start with a Jewish deli, to celebrate our roots, to keep the flair and atmosphere of this area. We want the shiny banking people to come and sit side by side with the people from this area rather than recreate the white tablecloth establishments you find elsewhere in the city.’

Around the corner is Club Michel, an underground supper club that welcomes rotating chefs to a series of one- off dinner parties open to anyone who signs up on the Club Michel website. It was launched by Rehberger and Ata Macias, a well-known German DJ who left Berlin to open a handful of uber-fashionable clubs, restaurants and coffee shops in the Bahnhofsviertel.

As the entire neighbourhood takes off, Berlin is having to give up some of its coolest inhabitants to the most unlikely of usurpers, as restaurateurs and curators say goodbye to the hyped-up capital to make their way in Germany’s emerging hub of creative activity.

‘ The thing about stereotypes is that you can always challenge them,’ says Ardinast. ‘ They can feel unfair but they can also make you adventurous in your quest to fight them. I always say, when people come to Frankfurt, they cry twice. Once when they’re told they have to visit, and once again when they have to leave.’

Ardinast透露:「家父是個食家。我們與其他在這裡長大的孩子不太一樣,我們經常一家人來到這區膳用 ,嚐遍這裡的越南菜、土其耳菜、摩洛菜哥 及泰國菜餐館,它們至今還在。」他指窗向外展示各國文化的大街,只有在這個寒冷冬日紛飛的雪花,才能讓我們意識到這裡是洲歐 北部。

「這也是我們首先開設猶太菜館的理,由 除了紀念我們的祖宗外,同時更希望保留這裡的風貌和氣氛。我們讓想打扮光鮮的銀行界人士與區內人同桌共坐,打成一片,我們並不欲在這裡開設跟市內一式一樣的高餐級 廳。」

位街於 角私的 房菜兼俱樂部Club Michel就請來了一班主廚輪流陣為上 , 在網站登記的客人舉辦晚宴派對。這裡的創辦人分別是Rehberger及Ata Macias,後者一離是 位 開柏林移居法蘭克福的德國名DJ,他於區開內 設多間時尚前衛的夜店、餐廳及咖啡店。

隨著整個Bahnhofsviertel社萬區象更新,柏林不少潮人步餐老廳 闆及藝術策展人的後塵,告別名氣過譽的首都,遷居到這個新興的創意重鎮,柏林潮人之都的地位恐怕會被法蘭克福取代。

Ardinast稱:「固有形象這回事,就是你隨時可以顛覆它。它可以是名不副實的形象,但亦正因如此,你才會勇於挑戰它的真偽。我經常說,來法蘭克福的旅客會哭兩次:第一次是當他們得知自己需要到訪此地,而另一次則是臨別依依的時候。」

THE BAHNHOFSVIERTEL CUTS ACROSS ALL CLASSES AND

ALL SCENES, FROM BANKERS TO HIPSTERS Bahnhofsviertel區打破了階級和職業疆的 界,無論銀行家或潮人都愛在此流連

Sleek culture Contemporary art at the Galerie Rundgaenger 別緻文化 Galerie Rundgaenger藝廊的當代藝術 DISCOVER FRANKFURT Cathay Pacific flies from Hong Kong to Frankfurt seven times a week 探索法蘭克福 國泰航空設有由香港飛往法蘭克福的航班,每周有七班

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