South China Morning Post

Salisterra adds a splash of sunshine to revamped menu

New chef highlights Mediterran­ean flavours with a focus on seafood and seasonal ingredient­s

- Bernice Chan life@scmp.com

It’s only been a year since its opening but changes are already afoot at Salisterra, on the top floor of The Upper House hotel in Admiralty.

The Andre Fu-designed restaurant has offered a new menu since May 1, thanks to its newly arrived executive chef Cary Docherty, who was most recently the executive sous-chef at the nearby Island Shangri-La hotel.

On the revamped menu are dishes such as a cold seafood platter, stracciate­lla with minted peas and broad beans, bouillabai­sse with red mullet, scallops and Gruyère, and seafood linguine in a cream sauce.

For hungry diners, there’s also a 1kg pan-fried Dover sole that’s deboned tableside, with olive-oilcrushed potatoes, sautéed broccolini and salsa verde.

“It’s a loose interpreta­tion of Mediterran­ean cuisine. What I tend to look at is the region as a whole,” Canada-born Docherty says of the menu featuring dishes inspired by the south of France, Italy and Spain.

“As we find our feet, we will be more adventurou­s and may feature dishes from North Africa and Greece.”

Docherty’s philosophy is to work with the seasons and source top-quality produce, and the Mediterran­ean theme means seafood plays a big role.

The seafood platter, for instance, features marinated razor clams, crab, local clams, mussels and sea urchin on a bed of ice.

There will also be a large selection of fresh oysters from Ireland, France and Japan, tuna tartare using farmed yellowfin tuna, crab salad using the entire crustacean, and prawn crudo.

There are tempting items for meat-lovers too, such as rib-eye on the bone that comes with roasted bone marrow, sun-dried tomatoes and potato purée, grilled pork chop with courgettes and green apple, and braised spiced boneless lamb shoulder with couscous, almonds and apricots.

Be sure to save room for dessert – Salisterra’s rum baba (a yeast cake soaked in an alcoholic syrup) is large but light and fluffy and comes with Chantilly cream. Other dessert options feature affogato, house-made gelato and sorbets, and a panna cotta with mandarin that Docherty describes as a refreshing treat that may remind some diners of Creamsicle­s, a US ice cream product.

Docherty worked in Vancouver in Canada and London in Britain, under top chefs Gordon Ramsay, Clare Smyth and Jason Atherton, before moving to Hong Kong almost four years ago.

He cooked up Sunday roasts, gourmet fish burgers and banoffee pie when he was at The Lobster Bar at Island Shangri-La. Before that, he was at British restaurant Gough’s on Gough in Central. As such, he welcomes the “exciting challenge” of creating a Mediterran­ean menu.

“I’ve cooked British food since coming to Hong Kong, so it’s exciting to get out of that framework and do something new,” he says.

Salisterra, Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, tel: 3968 1106

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