UKRAINE’S GOLDEN ALE SEEN AS A PINT OF NATION’S PRIDE
Beer sommelier Lana Svitankova is working hard to gain global recognition for country’s craft brews
In the months following Russia’s February 2022 invasion of Ukraine, US businesses were eager to show support for the besieged nation by flying flags of blue and gold. Craft beer makers were no exception.
The bright hues were emblazoned on tap handles, and beers named Brew for Ukraine, Resist and Putin Huylo (a Ukrainian insult) were brewed to raise awareness of the war and relief funds for its victims.
Some even produced the native Ukrainian golden ale.
But when drinkers curious to learn more about this hazy, malt-forward wheat ale looked to enthusiast site Untappd, the US-based Brewer’s Association or the international Beer Judge Certification Programme, they found that Ukrainian golden ale didn’t officially exist.
Lana Svitankova, 41, has spent the past three years working to change this. A beer writer and Ukraine’s first certified cicerone (beer sommelier), she has been working with Ukrainian brewers and industry professionals in the US, the UK and the rest of Europe to gain worldwide recognition for Ukrainian golden ale.
As her homeland endures a third year of conflict, the effort to establish a Ukrainian brewing identity has taken on fresh meaning and momentum.
Svitankova understands the industry’s reluctance to acknowledge Ukrainian golden ale. She was a sceptic once, too.
Ukraine has no brewing tradition to speak of. Much like the US and most of the beer-drinking world, the country has long relied on mass-produced pale lagers.
It was not until Svitankova’s 2008 honeymoon in Prague that she discovered the joys of a malty Czech dark lager, an experience that would change the trajectory of her life.
“It’s a love story,” says Svitankova, referring to this smitten-at-first-sip moment with beer (with apologies to her newlywed husband). “Because we don’t have a specific beer history, we don’t have any frame of reference. We were raised to believe beer has to be this one thing.”
Svitankova made it her mission to discover beers beyond homogenous, light-tasting lagers and to write about her adventures on her blog and for various beer publications. She also studied and passed the test to become Ukraine’s first certified beer judge.
Other Ukrainian brewers were having their own epiphanies.
In 2009, a year after Svitankova’s hoppy honeymoon, an adventurous Donetsk brewery owner named Vasyl Mikulin sent his head brewer, Dmytro Nekrasov, to Belgium to look beyond the strict German brewing rules he had been following; the more than 500-year-old Reinheitsgebot, or purity law, says beer can consist only of water, hops, barley and yeast.
According to Svitankova, Nekrasov returned willing and eager to experiment with different yeasts, hops, and sugars and spices. One result was an unfiltered strong ale, hazy gold in appearance, that was more full-bodied and sweeter than its Belgian forebears.
Nekrasov added a touch of coriander, one of Ukraine’s chief exports, for a lemony, spicy finish.
The easy-drinking golden ale (not yet dubbed “Ukrainian”) proved a hit among patrons, with the recipe slowly trickling out to other breweries that Nekrasov consulted.
In 2014, when Russia annexed Crimea and invaded Donetsk, Nekrasov and Mikulin were forced to leave the region and their business – the brewer to Dnipro, the owner to Kyiv – further contributing to the geographic spread of the increasingly popular style.
Mikulin eventually started Varvar Brew, which would become a standard-bearer of Ukraine’s still nascent craft beer industry.
In 2016 Svitankova joined Varvar as an event coordinator and ambassador. “I wasn’t impressed,” she says of her first taste of Ukrainian golden ale. “I’d had so much weirder stuff in my experience with craft beer. But I learned to take styles for what they are – and it was not a fad.
“People had already been drinking it since 2009. I started thinking, maybe it’s something.”
Time and life passed along until Covid-19 came along. In summer 2021, emerging from the pandemic that had left her stranded in Zurich, Svitankova left Varvar and started to channel her accumulated energy into a formal campaign for the recognition of Ukrainian golden ale.
Svitankova started polling brewers back in Ukraine to learn who was making Ukrainian golden ale, what ingredients they were using and who was drinking it. She requested samples from any willing to share.
Through aggregating information from Untappd, she counted 35 to 40 beers that might be classified as Ukrainian golden ale, with 19 more breweries that had previously made it or had one in the works.
The recipes showed commonality in basic ingredients and alcohol content, and most of the 11 samples she solicited tasted relatively similar.
She facilitated collaborations with brewers outside Ukraine’s borders on behalf of former employer and friend Varvar (free of charge, aside from the occasional shipment of beer), eventually with seven UK breweries and three in the US, including Chicago’s Midwest Coast Brewing.
She found that, in 2021, the year before Russia’s full-scale invasion, Ukrainians drank about 1.25 million litres of golden ale. That’s about 12,800 barrels, equivalent to the entire annual output of some smaller breweries.
Svitankova redoubled her efforts after the invasion, connecting with more US and European brewers to get Ukrainian golden ale in front of consumers.
Although the recognition campaign is not meant to be a war-related effort, she is “acutely aware” she cannot avoid the perception.
“I started with [the] intention to bring my country [on to] the brewing scene map, and of course now I want that even more, whatever that highlighting brings,” Svitankova says.
In summer 2023, the European Beer Consumers’ Union included it in its style guidelines. By the end of that year, at least 60 per cent of Untappd’s 350 global moderators voted to add the style to its app.
The Brewer’s Association and the Beer Judge Certification Programme have yet to be swayed.
I started with [the] intention to bring my country [on to] the brewing scene map LANA SVITANKOVA