South China Morning Post

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Hong Kong-based Leung So Kee Umbrella Factory is one of the oldest purveyors of the handmade accessory in China. We take a look at how the 139-year-old family business unfolded

- Ashlyn Chak ashlyn.chak@scmp.com

Founded in Guangzhou in the late 19th century before moving to Macau in 1923 and then Hong Kong in 1950, Leung So Kee Umbrella Factory is one of the oldest handmade umbrella manufactur­ers in China, with a history spanning 139 years.

A common thread runs through both the Leung So Kee story and much of Hong Kong’s cultural history, as the humble family business has had to adapt to many changes.

Leung So Kee’s evolution traces the social and economic advancemen­t of the city it has called home for more than 70 years – a history that is reflected in everything from the raw materials and components used in the umbrellas to how they are made, how much they cost and how the shop operates.

It all began in 1885, when ragpicker and repairman Leung Chi-wah (also known as Leung So), who had been fixing European umbrellas for foreigners conducting business in Guangzhou, decided to make Western umbrellas himself using imported materials. He would eventually set up shop in a busier part of the city.

Back then, the Chinese used mostly oilpaper umbrellas – an art in themselves – but the bamboo frames were no match for the durability of steel.

“There was nearly zero competitio­n – business was good and my great-grandfathe­r had two stores in Guangzhou,” says Leung Chi-wah’s great-grandson, Leung Mang-sing, fourthgene­ration owner of the business.

“Our umbrellas were a luxury noteveryon­e could afford,” Leung adds. “My father said they were valuable enough to be pawned.”

In 1923, the Leungs moved to Macau because of political instabilit­y on the mainland at the time.

In 1950, the entire family and business moved to Hong Kong.

“There wasn’t even the MTR yet in the early days when we dealt only in long, straight umbrellas in black and blue colours,” Leung says.

He describes how, in the 1960s, Japanese department stores came to Hong Kong, bringing “pretty” umbrellas with them.

“This was quite a hit to our operation, so we began to assimilate printed fabric and folding frames to appeal to the market.”

Leung, who has headed the business since 1975, says the drier winter in Hong Kong is the offseason for umbrella sellers.

During this period, he prepares for the year to come. He usually looks into improving the production process by researchin­g the latest products and sourcing new raw materials from around the world.

For example, about a decade ago, when Japanese factories started to mass-produce carbon fibre, Leung incorporat­ed the material into the company’s umbrella frames.

“Steel is very sturdy, but it rusts even when you take preventive measures, especially in the nooks and crannies of the frame where moisture is retained. It’s inevitable over time. Carbon fibre isn’t metal, so it’s light and doesn’t rust. Still, many of our older customers prefer steel, which is way more classic.”

He says there was a time when wide and heavy umbrellas that were long-lasting were preferred, but consumers’ priorities have since shifted. Leung So Kee now offers umbrellas with UV-blocking fabric and lighter frames.

Currently, one of the store’s daintiest offerings weighs just 155 grams: a 23cm foldable carbonfibr­e umbrella with a 52cm radius. The heaviest is an extra-large golf umbrella, at 640 grams with an 84cm radius.

There is also a wide variety of fabrics to pick from, with collection­s inspired by oil paintings, animal prints and flowers, to name just a few. Even among black-coloured fabrics, there are several different options.

At its peak, Leung So Kee had stores in Sham Shui Po, Tsuen Wan and Sha Tin. Leung recalls there were “more hands, probably between 10 and 20”. Now, he counts about five to six makers, with a specialise­d master for repairs.

He says during the business’ second generation, a Leung So Kee umbrella used to cost a month’s salary of a Chinese domestic helper. They have since become much more affordable, though the most premium option will still set a customer back HK$1,380.

The price tag is well justified: since its inception, the shop has used the slogan “pure steel frame, permanent warranty”. All of its umbrellas are eligible for free frame repairs. Customers are also welcome to bring in umbrellas from other makers for repair, for which they incur a small charge.

“We see a lot of umbrellas from the likes of Burberry, Prada and Alexander McQueen. Umbrellas are not these luxury brands’ speciality, so they would usually require repairs,” Leung says.

“We charge HK$90 for regular ones and HK$150 for the heavier, better-made European ones. It usually takes just a few days.”

Leung considers his umbrellas to be at a mid-range price point.

“There are much cheaper options out there – you can get one for just HK$20, but those umbrellas won’t withstand a typhoon and will end up street trash, which is very bad for the environmen­t.

“Our long-lasting umbrellas can be returned for repair and used again next time.”

In 1994, the company opened a flagship store in Sham Shui Po, which it retained for 29 years until 2023, when it moved to its current Tsim Sha Tsui location after the previous landlord raised the rent.

Leung says this is the fourth time the business has had a storefront on Nathan Road. Recently, that shop, on Tsim Sha Tsui’s Park Lane Shoppers’ Boulevard, is getting a lot more attention from tourists.

“Just the other day, someone from either Shanghai or Beijing came and bought a mini fold umbrella – perhaps some Xiaohongsh­u influencer featured us,” Leung says, referring to a social media site popular on the mainland. “We get a lot of Singaporea­n customers too. Still, our clientele has been mostly locals and the elderly.”

One of Leung So Kee’s feature items is its height-adjustable walking-stick umbrellas, with a rubber tip to aid in stable movement. This is not the only personalis­ed aspect of its products.

“The good thing about hand-making umbrellas is it’s a small and customisab­le production,” Leung says.

“At one point, we made plastic handles, since they’re cheaper and more approachab­le – very few makers used wood in the early days – but over time, not only do they break, they may even become sticky, as the handles sometimes melt in the heat.”

In recent years, Leung So Kee has only produced umbrellas with bamboo, wood and rattan handles. While these materials are indeed sturdier, it is to help the umbrellas better protect their users during bad weather, not so they can be used in fights, despite the attempts of one action film star.

In 1991, Jet Li Lianjie starred in Tsui Hark’s Once Upon a Time in

China as the late Chinese martial artist and folk hero Wong Fei-hung, and famously weaponised Leung So Kee’s umbrellas in one fight scene.

“The props team initially bought two umbrellas from us, then came back and said they broke them. I asked, ‘Who’s the male lead?’ They said it was Jet Li, and I was like, ‘Of course! The umbrellas are not for kung fu.’

“They placed another order of 24 umbrellas for the Wong Fei-hung movie,” he says with a laugh. “I heard they broke them all too.”

In 1986, soon after its 100th anniversar­y, Leung So Kee closed all its stores on Hong Kong Island. The event inspired a 1988 novel by Raymond To Kwok-wai, around which Clifton Ko Chi-Sum based his 1995 film, The Umbrella Story.

It was nominated for best screenplay at the 15th Hong Kong Film Awards. Both adaptation­s detailed Leung So Kee’s story and the stores’ closure.

The closures led many to falsely believe that Leung So Kee was shutting down for good, but it was only a misunderst­anding. The stores on Kowloon side stayed open.

“My grandfathe­r managed the Kowloon side, while his younger brother was in charge of business on Hong Kong Island,” Leung says.

In 2020, as the pandemic took hold in Hong Kong, Leung So Kee launched its online shop and website. When it moved into its new, more spacious store on Park Lane Shoppers’ Boulevard, it began hosting workshops in which participan­ts make their own umbrellas by hand-sewing fabric and attaching it to a frame.

The store also has an in-house laser machine for customers to etch names or chosen words onto the umbrella’s frame.

While the business is still alive and kicking, Leung admits the industry is declining, with little new blood coming in.

“Nowadays, very few young people want to join this industry. The process is complex and involves fabric, metal, plastic, wood, sewing machines. It’s tedious and intricate craftsmans­hip.”

Still, he adds: “I’m not too worried. We will persist.”

Our long-lasting umbrellas can be returned for repair and used again next time

LEUNG MANG-SING, FOURTH-GENERATION OWNER

Nowadays, very few young people want to join this industry LEUNG MANG-SING

 ?? Photos: Yik Yeung-man ?? Racks of umbrellas on display in Leung So Kee at Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard in Tsim Sha Tsui (above); and in recent years, Leung So Kee has only produced umbrellas with bamboo, wood or rattan handles (below).
Photos: Yik Yeung-man Racks of umbrellas on display in Leung So Kee at Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard in Tsim Sha Tsui (above); and in recent years, Leung So Kee has only produced umbrellas with bamboo, wood or rattan handles (below).
 ?? ??
 ?? ?? The last Leung So Kee Umbrella Factory store on Hong Kong Island closed its doors for good in 1986.
The last Leung So Kee Umbrella Factory store on Hong Kong Island closed its doors for good in 1986.
 ?? ?? Owner Leung Mang-sing at Leung So Kee’s Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard store in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Owner Leung Mang-sing at Leung So Kee’s Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard store in Tsim Sha Tsui.

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