Muddy and Magical: Lamma Island

奇妙的大自然:南丫島

Squarefoot - - CONTENTS - TEXT BY CATHARINA CHEUNG ILLUSTRATION BY CATO SZE

奇妙的大自然:南丫島

Lamma Island, located to the southwest of Hong Kong Island, is the SAR’S third largest island. Its name comes from a misreading of Portuguese navigational charts; “Lama”—‘mud’ in Portuguese—was inscribed in the vicinity of the island, a notation regarding the muddy holding of the surrounding seabed. This was mistakenly taken as the island’s name, and has since stuck. Formerly a traditional Chinese fishing village, Lamma Island has since been transformed into a laid-back multicultural community. Boats from Central run to two sides of the island: Yung Shue Wan, the more populated ‘main town’, and Sok Ku Wan, which has an emphasis on seafood establishments. Apart from service vehicles, no public transport runs on Lamma, so everyone either walks or bikes— a lovely change of pace from the hectic city life.

南丫島位於香港島的西南面,是本港第三大島嶼,最初葡文航海圖上稱這島為「Lama」,意謂「泥濘」,是指島嶼四周海床的泥漿,後來被誤會為島嶼的名稱,於是將錯就錯,成了今天南丫島的英文名稱。島的前身為一條傳統的漁村,漸漸成為一個氣氛休閒的多元文化社區。中環有渡輪來往南丫島的兩個碼頭――榕樹灣(島上較多人聚居的主要鄉鎮)及索罟灣(以海鮮餐廳聞名)。除了服務車輛外,島上沒有其他公共交通工具,住在島上的人不是步行,便是騎單車,沒有城市的急促生活節奏。

Shopping購物

Visitors won’t find the usual range of high street shops, but Lamma Island nonetheless has its share of interesting retail. Lamma Vinyl is the island’s independent record store, and a place where you could easily fall down the rabbit hole and end up spending hours in. Ming, the store owner, stocks a wide selection through eras and sub-genres, and it’s worth having a dig around to see what you can discover. Lamma’s residents all know Nick the Bookman, whose second-hand book stall is used to raise money towards helping the island’s stray animals. The former journalist is also a part-time DJ and music writer, so you can imagine the stories he’d be able to tell you. Seek Nick out at Yung Shue Wan Main Street and have a chat while donating to a worthy local cause.

Mush, at the end of Lamma Main Street, is a design concept store representing both local and regional designers. Check out their range of funky graphic t-shirts—there are so many you’ll be spoilt for choice, and they’ve even done a print of Nick the Bookman.

南丫島沒有高檔品牌,但卻有些特別的零售店,如島上的Lamma Vinyl唱片店,可以讓你流連忘返;ming的店搜羅不同年代的非主流貨品,實在是尋寶的好地方。南丫島的居民都認識Nick the Bookman,這家二手書店把賣書的收入幫助島上的流浪貓狗,Nick以前當記者,亦是兼職dj和樂評人,可想而知他有數不盡的故事跟你分享。他的書店就在榕樹灣大街上,不妨一邊與他閒談,一邊捐款支持有意義的活動。

大街末端是間出售本地及區內設計師作品的商店,一系列圖案T恤,選擇十分豐富,令人眼花撩亂,他們甚至為nick the Bookman設計了一款t恤呢!

As a bit of a hippie community, you're sure to find some quirky locals on Lamma. One such personality is the Churros Guy. You'll find him on the walk from Yung Shue Wan ferry pier to the Main Street; great for fuelling up before exploring the island. A hidden gem lies in wait at Joy's Tailor; this tailor in Tai Yuen Village transforms into a Vietnamese pop up over the weekends. Take your bowls somewhere with a nice view, and return them on your way back. Visit Kin Hing Tofu Dessert for tofu fa (silken tofu), served hot or chilled but both equally delicious. Andy's Seafood has a terrace for alfresco dining with a sunset view. They also offer Cantonese staples done right, and have done so for 19 years, so do order the minced quail in crispy lettuce, eggplant hotpot, and salt and pepper squid.

Yardley Brothers Beer Shack produces locally brewed craft beer and IPA which are much appreciated in Hong Kong. Stop by to grab cool refreshments (complete with cool bottle labels) to go with your picnic. Candela is a lively tapas joint perfect for group gatherings. We're told the weekend brunch is a must-try, so grab your friends and go enjoy a jug or two of sangria with Spanish bites. Otherwise, get cozy in Bookworm Café, where you can flick through their book collection while feasting guiltfree on their organic and vegetarian fare.

Lastly, there's no way you can visit Lamma Island and not indulge in the seafood that draws fans from all over Hong Kong. Rainbow Seafood Restaurant has won Silver in the seafood category of the Best Culinary Awards organised by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. Some hero dishes include fried crab with black pepper and honey, stir-fried prawns with chili peppers, and braised South African abalone with oyster sauce. The restaurant even provides a boat service to and from Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, so there's no real excuse not to visit.

南丫島社區有點嬉皮氛圍,島民來自四方八面,由榕樹灣碼頭到大街的路上,你會找到Churros Guy,不妨先吃點美食再在島上探索;大園新村的Joy's Tailor在周末變成越南美食店,找個景觀好的位置,一邊吃東西,一邊欣賞美景;建興亞婆豆腐花可凍食和熱食;壽記海鮮酒家的戶外用餐區是欣賞日落美景的地點,酒家有19年歷史,其廣東菜式炮製得恰到好處,記得品嘗鴿鬆生菜包、魚香茄子煲和椒鹽鮮魷。

Yardley Brothers Beer Shack生產精釀啤酒及ipa,大受香港人歡迎,可以買些冰涼飲品帶去野餐;Candela是間供應西班牙tapas小吃的餐廳,適合與三五知己聚餐,有說周末的早午餐值得一試,不妨約好一大班朋友一起大快朵頤;不然,到氣氛溫馨的Bookworm Café一邊閱讀,一邊享用有機素菜。

到南丫島一定要吃海鮮,不少香港人慕名而至。天虹海鮮酒家在香港旅發局主辦的「美食之最大賞」中獲得銀獎,招牌菜包括金牌秘製蟹、辣中辣.蝦中蝦及燜原雙南非鮑魚,餐廳更提供渡輪服務來往中環及尖沙咀接載客人,沒有不到訪的理由吧!

Get a sense of the island's fishing history at Lamma Fisherfolk's Village, which offers themed activities such as angling, rope weaving and hauling in fishing nets. There are also authentic fishing junks, dragon boats, and booths on folklore and local dwellings. If you've ever wondered about the heritage and lifestyle of the traditional fishing community, this is the place to go. As a marine-dependant town, there is of course a Tin Hau Temple where fishermen pray for bountiful catches and safe voyages. What's interesting about Lamma's Tin Hau Temple is that its entrance is flanked by Western-style stone lions. Apparently when the original Chinese ones were damaged in the 1960s, the stonemason who was hired to replace them specialised in Western-style stone carvings.

Lamma Island is also home to Hong Kong's first green energy plant, the 233 foot-tall Lamma Winds. It can be visited free of charge and offers a panoramic view of Hong Kong's southside from the nearby pavilion. Visitors should also make a point of doing a leisurely hike while on the island. Hiking from Sok Ku Wan to Hung Shing Yeh Beach will take you past the Tin Hau Temple and the hilltop pavilion so you can visit Lamma Winds along the way, ending at a nice quiet beach to unwind. Alternatively, the same beach can also be reached from Tai Peng as a starting point, offering different views. Either way, hiking on Lamma Island isn't too strenuous—just as well since the cooler autumn weather is only just starting.

南丫島漁民文化村展示昔日漁村歷史,提供不同的主題活動,如垂釣、繩索編織或拖網捕漁,參觀者還可看到舊式漁船、龍船、文物及地道住宅,對傳統漁村的歷史和生活有更深入的認識。島上亦有一所天后廟讓漁民參拜,祈求風調雨順,漁穫豐盛。但有趣的是,廟宇入口有一對西式石獅子,大有可能是60年代中式石獅損壞後,負責雕刻的工匠只懂雕琢西式獅子!

南丫島亦是全港第一所綠色能源發電站的所在地,南丫風采發電站足有233呎高,免費參觀,而且在附近的觀景台還可欣賞到香港南區美麗景致。在南丫島上遠足,由索罟灣到洪聖爺灣,沿途經過天后廟、山頂涼亭,以及南丫風采發電站,最後抵達優美寧靜的海灘休息;或從大坪出發,沿途欣賞截然不同的風光,可抵達同一個沙灘。無論你選擇哪一條路,在南丫島遠足不用太費勁,特別在秋日清涼的天氣下郊遊。

Mush

Kin Hing Tofu Dessert建興亞婆豆腐花 BEST Kebab & Pizza最好的烤肉串和披薩 Rainbow Seafood Restaurant天虹海鮮酒家

Tin Hau Temple天后廟 Hung Shing Yeh Beach洪聖爺灣 View from Lamma Island Family Walk南丫島家樂徑景色

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