Tricks of the Trade

A boost in Champagne production, a new role for oak, a tasty Tuscan white and a change of focus for Gaja make James Suckling’s monthly news round-up

TREBBIANO TREAT

Boggina Bianco is a new wine from the wonderful winery of Petrolo in Tuscany. The 2014 white shows dried lemon, melon, pear and hints of cream. It’s full-bodied yet bright and fresh, layered and fascinating. A unique wine. Only two barrels were made with the small Burgundian producer Lucien Le Moine—100 per cent trebbiano, barrel fermented and aged. Drink now.

94 points

GAJA RETURNS TO BARBARESCO

Italian winery Gaja is to produce three red wines in the Barbaresco appellation in Piedmont that were previously labelled under Langhe DOC. Starting from the 2013 vintage, the three wines—costa Russi, Sorì Tildin and Sorì San Lorenzo—will be made with 100 per cent nebbiolo grapes, omitting the 15 per cent of barbera grapes used in them since 1996. The winery has decided to pursue the pure expression of the nebbiolo variety, according to Gaia Gaja, daughter of winery owner Angelo Gaja. Meanwhile, its 2013 Langhe DOC single-vineyard wines, Sperss and Conteisa, will be released with Barolo appellations next year.