All Hands On Deck
Set against the majestic backdrop of the Grand Palais in Paris, Karl Lagerfeld’s latest Chanel cruise collection set sail aboard La Pausa, the house’s very own ocean liner. Justine Lee reports
Set against the majestic backdrop of the Grand Palais in Paris, Karl Lagerfeld’s latest Chanel cruise collection set sail aboard La Pausa, the house’s very own ocean liner
Coco Chanel was a fan of the sea. When on holiday, she was often depicted in striped tops, oversized sailor trousers, sunglasses and a beret. She loved spending her leisure time at the French seaside, anywhere from Deauville to Biarritz. The designer presented her first cruise collection at the end of fall 1919, arguably the first to cater to the holidaying elite. This year’s cruise collection is a fitting tribute to her innovative spirit.
The show, which was held at the Grand Palais in Paris, was made more memorable by La Pausa, the specially built, large-as-life mockup of a cruise liner that served as a dramatic backdrop for the models. The ship was named after Chanel’s villa in Roquebrune-cap-martin, on the eastern tip of the French Riviera, which was designed by architect Robert Streitz in 1928. It was the only home Chanel ever owned.
The collection was a testament to the sensuous delight of a trip to a beach town in warm weather. Intarsia knit logo sweaters were paired with wide-legged striped trousers, and
loose-fitting tweed ensembles with matching berets. Prints were retrographic, with cruise liners and ocean waves served up in contrasting shades of blue and pastel pink. In terms of styling, almost all the looks were worn with white stockings and matching rubber-soled, slip-proof Mary Janes. While tweeds, silkchiffon and light wool knits were the predominant materials, hints of water-resistant PVC also appeared in the mix.
Accessories embodied the nautical spirit too, with life preservers reinterpreted as clutches, brooches (pinned on jackets and berets) and pendant necklaces. Leather bags were accented with rope shoulder straps.
In a time when whisking fashion editors and VIPS to far-flung destinations for cruise shows is the norm, it was a refreshing change to see Chanel stay put at the Grand Palais. Just weeks before the show, it was announced that the venue, which hosts Chanel ready-to-wear and couture shows four times a year, will be undergoing a €25 million, fouryear renovation sponsored by the brand from 2020.