The TATLER Watch Glossary

The world of watches can be confusingly complicated—in more ways than one. Christian Barker breaks down some of the key terms the budding horology enthusiast needs to comprehend

Alarm

This device sounds a signal to alert the wearer at a pre-set time. It is sometimes combined with the minute repeater complication, which chimes the time when a button is pushed. The pricing of a minute repeater will often cause the prospective buyer to experience a sense of alarm.

Analog Watch

An analog timepiece possesses hands pointing to the hours, minutes (and often, but not necessarily, seconds) on the dial. Like some Italians, it communicates information using its hands.

Bezel

The outer ring surrounding the watch face. When the bezel rotates and features numerals, it can be used to measure the duration of a scuba dive—or more commonly, the time until a pizza delivery arrives.

Calibre

A watchmaking term denoting the model number of a particular movement. Though opinions vary, Dirty Harry Callahan believed a .44 Magnum calibre to be the most powerful in the world—it could blow your head clean off, he asserted.

Case Back

The rear of a watch case. Like some seriously sexy lingerie, it is often made of a transparent material to expose the beauty of the inner workings.

Chronograph

A stopwatch that can be used to measure elapsed hours, minutes and seconds, and sometimes, speed and distance. As per the rotating bezel, it is most commonly utilised in real life to time take-out deliveries.

Chronometer

A precision watch that has been tested under various conditions to meet the exacting standards of a punctilious Swiss institution. Certification guarantees that your expensive mechanical watch is nearly as accurate as a cheap quartz timepiece.

Complication

A watch that in addition to timekeeping is equipped to perform specialised functions. Examples include the chronograph, minute repeater, moonphase, and perpetual calendar. “It’s complicated” is a desirable description for a watch, but not your Facebook relationship status.

COSC

An acronym for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, which certifies the accuracy of Swiss timepieces by putting chronometer watch movements through an exhaustive twoweek testing process. A mere six per cent of Swiss watches gain the certification.

Crown

The rotating knob(s) on the periphery of the case, used to set the time and other read-outs. In non-automatic mechanical watches, it’s also used to wind the movement. A highly useful knob, like your lawyer.

Crystal

The see-through cover, generally made of synthetic sapphire or plastic, through which a watch dial is viewed. Also: A name favoured by exotic dancers.

Dial

The watch face. As is the case with the human visage, the most beautiful are commonly the cleanest and least adorned—a simple, elegant white enamel dial is the lipstick, foundation and eyeliner of the horological world.

Day/date

A watch displaying the day of the week and date (but not the month). A day-date, meanwhile, is what you might arrange with an iffy Tinder match.

Dual Time

A watch that simultaneously tells time in two locations. Handy for frequent travellers, international businessmen and two-timing philanderers (often one and the same).

Guilloche

An intricate patterned engraving, usually found decorating the dial. Pronounced like the name of a French/irishman: Guy (‘ghee’) O’shea.

Horology

Catch-all term for the watchmaking arts. Don’t be concerned if a man tells you he’s a horology enthusiast, this has nothing to do with studying ladies of the night.

Lugs

Perhaps named after the big lugs who provide security to VIPS, these protrusions protect the case and provide a means of attaching the watch band or bracelet.

Main Plate

At a society ball, this term normally refers to a dry and lifeless chicken breast. In watchmaking, however, Main Plate refers to the base onto which the parts of a watch movement are mounted.

Mechanical Movement

The heart of a proper timepiece, a mechanical movement is powered by a coiled mainspring that is wound up (either manually, commonly by turning the crown, or through the action of an automatic rotor) and functions by gradually unwinding, releasing pent up energy, much as one does with several glasses of wine at the end of the day.

Moon phase

A complication that tracks the current phase of the moon in the lunar cycle. While most useful for fishermen and deer hunters, oddly enough, this function is frequently found on dainty ladies’ watches.

Perpetual Calendar

One of the most sought-after complications, a perpetual calendar displays the date, month and sometimes year, and cleverly self-adjusts to account for the months’ disparate lengths, as well as the extra day in February during a leap year. If kept wound, a perpetual calendar watch will remain accurate for the next 82 years (leap years are skipped at the turn of a century), at which point your grandchild will need to begrudgingly make a minor adjustment.

Power Reserve

Power Reserve refers to the amount of energy a watch can store. Most quality mechanical timepieces today will keep ticking for 36-72 hours before needing a boost.

Quartz Movement

Developed in the late 1960s, this is a low-cost, highlyaccurate, battery-powered movement that sends an electrical signal through a piece of crystal quartz to keep the watch’s hands ticking.

Swiss Made

A watch can legitimately claim this appellation if its movement was assembled, started, adjusted and controlled in Switzerland. Not to be confused with Swiss Maid, a roleplay tactic that can be used to keep marital relations spicy.

Tachymeter

Sounds like a device measuring the level of kitsch, but is in fact a device on a chronograph watch gauging speed travelled over a given distance.

Tourbillon

Initially developed to counteract the ill effects of gravity on pocket watches, which were worn in the same position throughout the day. The tourbillon does increase a watch’s accuracy, however today it’s most commonly utilised to indicate wealth, with the presence of a tourbillon almost guaranteeing a hefty price tag—and all the status symbolism that confers.

Waterproof

In watchmaking, there’s no such thing. Watches can attain near imperviousness to moisture—timepieces tested as water resistant to 100 metres (330 feet/10 ATM) can safely be used for swimming and light snorkelling, while those boasting more than 200 metres water resistance are suitable for scuba and water sports. But even the sturdiest dive watch has its limits and—like Trump’s White House—will eventually spring leaks when placed under tremendous pressure.