The Runway Report
From classic power suits to frilly neon brights, fancy lace to edgy florals, the inspiring offerings of the fall/winter runways have everyone covered
From classic power suits to frilly neon brights, fancy lace to edgy florals, the inspiring offerings of the fall/winter 2019 runways have everyone covered
CHANEL
The late Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection was arguably the most anticipated show of the season. Teary-eyed models and brand ambassadors including Penélope Cruz, Cara Delevingne and Luna Bijl poured out of chalet doors onto a snow-lined catwalk in Paris’ Grand Palais, which was transformed into a scene from the Alps. Looks were layered in checks and houndstooth tweeds topped with big, belted coats and intarsia knitwear—perfect for après-ski. Accessories came in a variety of soft winter hues, including shearling 2.55 bags and minaudières in the shape of gondolas.
HERMÈS
“I LIKE TO CHALLENGE GRAVITY AND PLAY WITH THE WAY YOU CUT A FABRIC, THE WAY YOU DIRECT IT. THE STRAIGHT GRAIN HAS A MORE CONTROLLED ATTITUDE, WHEREAS THE BIAS CUT IS MORE FEMININE; IT WAITS FOR ITS OWNER BEFORE TAKING ITS FINAL SHAPE—THEN IT COMES ALIVE” —NADÈGE VANHEE- CYBULSKI
CHRISTIAN DIOR “TEDDY GIRLS WERE IMPERTINENT CHARACTERS WITH WILD QUIFFS WHO WORE EDWARDIAN- STYLE MEN’S JACKETS WITH VELVET SCARVES, AMPLE SKIRTS, JEANS AND LEATHER JACKETS” —MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTIONS The American designer set his retro-inspired fall/winter show in a ballroom and included Studio 54-inspired designs, including glitter-lined minidresses, feathers and fuzzy, oversized coats— while Barry Manilow crooned Copacabana in the background.
“WHEN I ARRIVED IN NEW YORK, IT WAS A TIME OF GREAT CREATIVITY IN FASHION, THEATRE, MUSIC AND ART. THE SIDEWALKS BECAME LIKE RUNWAYS, WITH AN EXPLOSION OF STYLE” —MICHAEL KORS
CELINE
While Hedi Slimane’s debut for Celine was a series of mini dresses and skinny shapes, the designer turned his attention to daywear this season. Slimane let loose and put on a show that channelled the 1970s, filled with pussy-bow blouses, pleated culottes and covetable shearling outerwear. Confident and cooler than cool—this is the Celine woman under the direction of Slimane.
BURBERRY
Riccardo Tisci continues to reinterpret British street style in his second season, emblazoning the logo chain print on everything from slip dresses to fur coats. Burberry’s famous trench was still the highlight, reimagined and turned inside out to make dresses and puffers. They were worn by models strolling through two show environments, one more structured with rigid wood seating, the other involving more than 100 teenagers scaling the walls, representing disparate worlds and Tisci’s youthful rebellion.
“I’VE BEEN THINKING A LOT ABOUT ENGLAND AS A COUNTRY OF CONTRASTS, FROM THE STRUCTURED TO THE REBELLIOUS” — RICCARDO TISCI “WHEN I SET OUT TO CREATE A BAG WORTHY OF CARRYING THE MOST ESSENTIAL AND CHERISHED ITEMS IN A MODERN WOMAN’S LIFE, THERE WERE SOME COMMON THEMES: PRIVACY, CONVENIENCE, STRENGTH, BEAUTY AND BOLDNESS” —PAUL ANDREW
Paul Andrews’ debut ready-to-wear collection (he was promoted from footwear designer to creative director earlier this year) features a well-rounded palette of muted colours on patchwork leather skirts inspired by Ferragamo’s iconic 1938 rainbow platform wedge, originally designed for Judy Garland. Note the Gancini motif on a variety of accessories, from boyish loafers to roomy frame bags.
GIORGIO ARM A N I
“MY CLOTHES ARE NOT MADE TO DISGUISE PEOPLE, RATHER TO GIVE THEM A CERTAIN AURA. AT NIGHT, JUST AS DURING THE DAY, YOU HAVE TO BE YOURSELF: THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO ACHIEVE TRUE STYLE” —GIORGIO ARMANI
The fall/winter Rhapsody in Blue collection was just that—a showcase of the soothing hue in multiple shades and silhouettes, from draped blouses to quasi- tie-dyed suits and crushed-velvet, square- toed boots. The colour lent itself to a wave motif found in the ruffled satin clutches and occasional swirls of abstract flowers found on boleros and jumpsuits.
FENDI
The last collection by Karl Lagerfeld was a triumphant swan song of the designer’s hallmarks: pointed Edwardian collars on A-line petticoats, sheer layers of blouses, and perforated leather trench coats. Furs were reimagined in laser-cut patterns or fused onto riding helmets. Girlish ribbons were threaded into the backs of jackets or formed bows on collars, while Lagerfeld’s hand-drawn double-f logo became the new print on stockings and frocks, as seen on the ethereal canary yellow closing look worn by Gigi Hadid.
“WHEN KARL CALLED JUST A FEW DAYS BEFORE THE SHOW, HIS ONLY THOUGHTS WERE ON THE RICHNESS AND BEAUTY OF THE COLLECTION. IT’S A TRUE TESTAMENT TO HIS CHARACTER. HE SHALL BE SO MISSED” —SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI
ALEXANDER MC QUEEN
In this collection, Sarah Burton marries two features for which her hometown, Macclesfield, near Manchester, is famous— beautiful fields of wild blooms and fabric mills—in an edit that juxtaposes the precision of men’s tailoring and the beauty of an English rose. Trouser suits were accented with waist sashes, multilayered skirts looked like petals on a flower and silk taffeta dresses were moulded into roses.
GIVENCHY
Clare Waight Keller’s continuous exploration and combination of tough and soft has reshaped Givenchy’s DNA. Sculptural looks of razor-sharp tailoring and boot-cut trousers were coupled with curled-collar plisse tunics, which are a favourite of the brand’s new ambassador, Ariana Grande.
VALENT INO
Pierpaolo Piccioli dedicated this season to romantic love, enlisting Jun Takahashi from Undercover as his collaborator. Guests at the show received a little book of poems, including works by Greta Bellamacina, Mustafa The Poet and Yrsa Daley-ward, and the collection itself featured symbols of love, such as images of kissing neoclassical sculptures and red roses transplanted onto column dresses.
“I REALLY WANT VALENTINO TO BE A COUTURE HOUSE OF TODAY—TO MELD COUTURE AND STREET” —PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI
LA NVIN
Bruno Sialelli marks his debut at the French fashion house with of-the-moment blanket ponchos, giant totes and elegant classics like easy evening silk dresses in vintage prints.
LOUIS VUITTON
“THE CENTRE POMPIDOU, BEAUBOURG, LES HALLES, PLACE DES INNOCENTS... I LOVE THAT IMPRESSION OF A SARTORIAL MELTING POT. TODAY I’VE TRANSPOSED IT AT LOUIS VUITTON: A HOUSE OF MULTIPLE EXPRESSIONS” —NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE
“A LITTLE BIT OF IMPERFECTION IS THE NEW PERFECTION” —DONATELLA VERSACE
VERSACE
Grunge lives to see another day in more than one collection this fall, including Versace, which doubled down on perennial house motifs including giant safety pins, shiny PVC, plenty of neon, holey knits and clashing silk prints. Note the Virtus bag—named after the Roman deity of strength and courage—a new silhouette for the house, featuring a baroque V clasp.
RALPH LAUREN Ralph Lauren showed a glittering line-up of white, black and gold eveningwear in his Madison Avenue flagship store, reimagined as Ralph’s Café, continuing the brand’s goal of adopting more lifestyle experiences into its empire. Guests including Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley and Jessica Jung were served breakfast as they admired the glam-nautical collection of diaphanous, dramatic silhouettes.
SAINT LAURENT
In a box-like structure at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, the Saint Laurent stage—filled with twinkling lights, double-sided mirrors and blaring music—ignited all the senses. Highlights included coats with strong, boxy shoulders matched with animal-print pencil skirts, as well as Anthony Vaccarello’s party-ready minidresses in neon brights.
“OUR WOMAN IS FULL OF A SUBTLE TENSION. SHE IS A DARK ANGEL WITH A SENSUAL ALLURE, DRAPED IN BLACK- SEQUINNED DRESSES THAT SHINE LIKE ASPHALT AFTER THE RAIN” —ANTHONY VACCARELLO
LORO PIANA LORO PIANA’S BABY CASHMERE COMES FROM YOUNG GOATS THAT GRAZE THE HOSTILE EXPANSE OF INNER MONGOLIA’S DESERT, RESULTING IN FIBRES MUCH SOFTER AND FINER THAN THAT OF ADULT GOATS
Loro Piana introduces surprising brights—think bubble- gum pinks and baby blues—to the label’s ordinarily staid stable of luxurious fabrications and baby cashmeres. In an effort to include more daywear staples, chic, cropped trousers were hemmed with leather and, for the first time, the 360 LP knit sneakers were offered for women. The new accordion flap bags with a leather clasp, and gigantic draping scarves are also some of the additions we love.
ALTUZARRA
New York-based designer Joseph Altuzarra was inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs—“i was drawn to the idea of toughness,” he says—which manifested in leather fringes, studs, buckles and oversized, asymmetrical earrings on the catwalk. Key looks included Fair Isle knits matched with paisley, animal-print skirts and studded boots.
VICTORIA BECKAM
A collection for every day of the week, featuring the designer’s signature skinny blouses, long pencil skirts and high-waisted trousers with a ’70s flare, this time in uplifting hues, such as vermillion and lilac, and modern windowpane checks.
BOTTEGA VENETA
Daniel Lee showed classic-with- a- twist accessories, such as square-toed pumps and the Italian house’s iconic Intrecciato weave translated onto totes and clutches of exaggerated shapes and proportions. While the simple, sophisticated tailoring falls in line with the house’s heritage, Lee’s statement, angular cuts, subtly sexy cut-outs and strategic brass details feel like a modern coat of armour, a distinguishing aesthetic of Lee and his contemporaries.
STELLA MC CARTNEY
Stella Mccartney continues her effort to champion sustainable fashion in this collection, this time using strips of vintage silk shirts and materials from past collections to create a collage of prints on statement frocks.
TOD'S
Tod’s served its finest leather on the fall-winter runway, this time in crepe- thin, boxy, colour-blocked shirts atop pencil skirts or Bermuda shorts. Of note: the introduction of leopard and Prince of Wales prints into the normally spartan fare, and the lush leather satchels doubled up in two sizes, with mini flapbags attached like a charm to their classic totes–it’s how we’ll all be wearing our bags this season.
GUCC I
A mirrored arena and walls fitted with 120,000 lights put Alessandro Michele’s retro-eclectic collection on brilliant display. There were whimsical frocks in every colour adorned with bows and sequins, and, as usual, girls in baggy three-piece suits. Watch out for this fall’s statement accessories: spiked masks, volleyball knee pads and golden ear cuffs.
MAX MARA
American Congresswoman (and frequent client) Nancy Pelosi and other powerful women were the main inspiration for designer Ian Griffiths this fall, with a show that opened with three bold coat- and-boot ensembles in primary hues, followed by an array of teddy cardigans, floor-sweeping trenches and vests adorned with giant, croc-embossed pockets.
MIU MIU
It was an emo mash-up on the catwalk, starring romantic warriors in capes—a garment which, for Miuccia Prada, symbolises protection against the world’s harshest climates. Fabricated in tweed, faux leather and canvas, the outerwear is available in an assortment of styles spanning utility, evening and artisanal. This season’s Miu Miu devotee should be prepared to arm herself with floral backpacks and tights embellished with jewels and flowers.
A HULA HOOP-LIKE NECKLINE ON TOPS AND DRESSES IS ONE WAY GVASALIA REWORKS CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA’S SIGNATURE SHAPES INTO MODERN, STREET-READY STYLES BALENCIAGA
Monochromatic ensembles of trenches, minimal tailoring and cocoon coats dominated Demna Gvsalia’s runway this fall. The show venue was a pared down black box—a departure from last year’s graffiti-covered structure—which allowed showgoers to focus on the clothes. What resonated were the reworked wardrobe essentials: think puff-sleeved parkas, slouchy cardigans in leather and silk blouses with Dracula-worthy collars.
MARC JACOBS
Maximum volume and the ’80s reigned on Marc Jacobs’ runway. There were capes and coats, enormous tulle gowns and engulfing jackets in monochrome palettes made whimsical with stripes and polka dots, all topped with feathered hats created by long-time collaborator Stephen Jones.
“[IT COMES FROM] A NEED TO NARRATE THE GOOD AND THE BAD TOGETHER, WHICH KIND OF CORRESPONDS WITH OUR TIMES.” —MIUCCIA PRADA
SACAI
Chitose Abe created her collection by thinking back to what she liked to wear as a girl. The result: a collection of mixedand-matched garments that are all encompassing—is it a nylon bomber jacket? Is it a trench coat? Is it a Fair Isle sweater? For the Japanese designer, it’s usually all of the above.
CHLOÉ
Natacha Ramsay-levi’s Chloé girl will be swathed in shearling outerwear, military coats, flared, ribbed trousers, block-heeled boots and a couple of billowysleeved blouses this fall. On the runway, glimmers of gold peeked through necklines and bags, and the popular Paddington Lock—a small, top-handle bag resembling a lock in patchwork materials—made its return.
PRADA
Following a menswear collection inspired by Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, Miuccia Prada presented an equally dark, romantic collection of womenswear, starring black lace capes and 3D satin flowers, and grounded in the designer’s signature crisp shirts, cargo details and chunky, utilitarian boots with detachable pockets. The anti-heroines channelled? Wednesday Addams (models sported her unmistakable hairstyle) and Lady Gaga, whose hit Bad Romance dominated the soundtrack in a haunting rendition.