Tatler’s Essential Jewellery Terms
Master these nuggets of jewellery vernacular and you’ll be sure to sparkle among the gemological cognoscenti
Master these nuggets of jewellery vernacular and you’ll be sure to sparkle among the gemological cognoscenti
Alloy
The melding of two or more metals – for instance, 18-karat red gold is an alloy of approximately 75 per cent gold and 25 per cent copper. Pronounced the same way an Australian would utter the accusation of a falsehood. (“Oi, that’s alloy!”)
Annealing
A method of heating and cooling metal to restore its flexibility, and the position a man traditionally adopts when proffering an engagement ring.
Baguette
A narrow, rectangular cut of gem, the name of which serves as a reminder you’ll need plenty of bread to buy a good diamond.
Brilliant
“Brilliant!” is the exclamation a nice Englishwoman might make when she’s presented with one of these sparkly diamonds cut with 58 facets.
Carat
The unit of weight measurement for gemstones, or a measure of gold’s purity (the latter application most commonly spelled “karat”). Phonetically similar to the accusation levelled at many a gentleman to prompt him to put a ring on it. “Why won’t you marry me? You don’t carat all about me, do you?!”
Claw
In a claw setting, metal prongs hold a stone in place within an open setting that allows light to shine through. You’ll frequently see the claws come out during a gathering of wizened tai-tais.
Cushion
A cut of stone that resembles a pillow, which is not to suggest that the wearer was gifted the gem thanks to her skills in the bedroom.
Dog Collar
A choker-style necklace formed from several strands of gems or pearls. Favoured by unabashedly glamorous b*tches.
Engraving
The act of embellishing metal jewellery with carved designs, patterns or inscriptions. Also, the act of burying a relative and (hopefully) soon coming into possession of the dearly departed’s jewellery box.
Facet
A flat, polished face on a gem, refracting light and helping the stone sparkle. Akin to the facets of one’s character – charm, allure, wit, wiles, felicity and willingness, for instance – that help an individual shine.
Fastening
The device used to affix a piece of jewellery to the body. Common types include the lobster claw, padlock, bolt ring and the cast of The Only Way is Essex.
Faux
False; fake; imitation; ersatz. Often exemplified in jewellery, fur, shark’s fin and the smiles of restaurant maître d’s.
Girdle
The widest perimeter of a gemstone and a garment used to narrow down a lady’s girth.
Hallmark
A stamp applied to guarantee authenticity – or a schmaltzy greeting card posted to express inauthentic sentiments.
Lustre
The shininess of a gem, pearl or precious stone’s surface, which can be judged adamantine (brilliant), vitreous (glassy) or the selfexplanatory metallic, greasy, waxy, pearly, dull, silky or resinous. A lustre, meanwhile, may be judged hopeless, horny, handsy, hoggish or Harvey (this last meaning “all of the above”).
Pavé
In a pavé setting, stones are packed as closely as sardines, slathered across a watch or piece of jewellery. Often seen in a déclassé setting, such as a Monaco nightclub or Dubai champagne bar.
Princess
This fancy cut of diamond, featuring a straight-sided rectangular outline with a brilliant facet arrangement, is a popular choice for engagement rings. A Princess Motor Yacht can be a helpful tool during earlier stages of the wooing process.
Tiara
A dainty, jewelled ornamental crown worn by many royals on formal occasions. Expect to pay a king’s ransom to make your lady feel like a queen.
Wedding Band
Not to be confused with the tone deaf musical combo murdering Uptown Funk at the reception, many argue that this is the only piece of jewellery (apart from a watch and cufflinks) that a man should ever wear.
Zirconia
In cubic form, a synthesised gemstone. Zirconia sounds like the name of a fictional country from a Marvel comic, which is apt, because if a guy thinks he’ll get away with passing one of these off to you, he’s living in a fantasy land.