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Rekindle your wanderlust with pet-friendly outings, exotic island escapes and a new approach to sustainabl­e travel

- By Kissa Castañeda

New hotel openings, wellness retreats and more

The hotel industry is waking up to the needs of some particular­ly special family members—our pets. Luxury hotels around the world are now offering five-star stays tailored to our furry friends, featuring everything from massage therapists for dogs to pet perfumes.

At the Beverly Hills Hotel in California, dogs are welcomed with personalis­ed homemade cookies—with their names written on them in icing— and dog walkers are on call 24 hours a day. Pet-friendly packages are also available at Belmond’s Hotel Splendido in Portofino, Italy, which reopened in May. The 16th-century monastery-turned-hotel now has a dedicated pet concierge who can arrange a trip to Portofino’s luxury shops, where you can buy bespoke bowls, pet perfumes or a pampering grooming session for your dog. The glamorous hotel, which was a favourite of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, also has in-property perks: a petsized fluffy dressing gown, all-day doggy room service

and open-air Swedish massages by trained pet therapists. Owners can sit in on the massages and learn techniques to replicate at home.

Small Luxury Hotels has one of the few websites that allows travellers to filter searches for pet-friendly accommodat­ion. To date, it lists more than 150 hotels that offer VIP pet treatment, including The Sukhothai in Bangkok and Crossbaske­t Castle in Scotland, which offers a special “dog’s dinner” menu created by Michelin-starred chef Albert Roux. Another member hotel, The Fish Hotel in the UK, goes the extra mile by offering dog hydration stations throughout its Cotswolds estate, a dog agility course, a bathtub equipped with canine soap and shampoo, and an afternoon tea experience featuring treats from high-end store The Barking Bakery.

The luxurious Oetker Collection is a hotel group that is proudly pet-friendly, so much so that many of its hotels are home to resident pets. A Birman cat called Fa-raon is a permanent guest at the Le Bristol in Paris; he is typically spotted sitting pretty on the concierge desk. The Brenners Park-hotel & Spa in Baden-baden, Germany has been a relaxing respite of the European elite since 1872. Today, it serves as the stomping ground of Kléopatre, another Birman cat, who often snuggles near the open fireplace. The newest pet to join the Oetker crew is Lilbet, a fluffy, fun-loving Siberian Forest cat who is ensconced in the Lanesborou­gh Hotel in London.

KISAWA SANCTUARY

Benguerra Island, Mozambique

Spanning 300 hectares of virgin territory in Mozambique, Kisawa Sanctuary on Benguerra Island is the first hotel establishe­d by entreprene­ur and philanthro­pist Nina Flohr. The stylish royal— her official title is Princess Nina of Greece and Denmark—is best known for her work as creative director of her family’s private aviation company, Vistajet, and she brings her knowledge of luxury to this landmark project, which is currently in its soft-opening phase.

Kisawa has 12 bungalows from one to three bedrooms. Each has an open-air deck, private pool, outdoor kitchen and its very own stretch of beach, providing guests with plenty of room to immerse themselves in nature. Each bungalow is decorated differentl­y, but all of them showcase traditiona­l craftsmans­hip, with local weaving, carpentry and textiles featured inside. The hotel’s culinary programme

is also commendabl­e: it offers organic, seasonal produce grown at the resort or bought from a network of local farmers, operates a zero-waste policy and does not use any processed ingredient­s in its dishes. A natural wellness centre that specialise­s in Ayurveda and Traditiona­l Chinese Medicine is due to open in July. kisawasanc­tuary.com

CAP KAROSO Sumba, Indonesia

Indonesia is made up of more than 17,000 islands, but Sumba has captured the hearts of first-time hoteliers Fabrice and Evguenia Ivara, who are opening Cap Karoso there later this year. The French couple embarked on the project in 2018, moving to Singapore to oversee the build of the 47-room hotel and 20 villas in southwest Sumba.

“When we arrived, the wild feeling of the place was such a refreshing contrast to the world of globalisat­ion— with buffaloes on the roads, indigenous tribal traditions and pristine beaches,” says Evguenia—and this is exactly the experience she wants to share with guests. But that does not mean sacrificin­g modern technology or creature comforts. The Ivaras are crafting a space that’s sophistica­ted rather than spartan: rooms are decorated in a minimalist style, the hotel’s greenhouse will grow produce to be eaten on site, and the couple have also built a solar park that provides 50 per cent of the property’s energy needs. capkaroso.com

L’ESCALE RESORT MARINA & SPA

Mahé, Seychelles

While the hotel’s name literally means “stopover” in French, L’escale Resort Marina & Spa, which is surrounded by the lush forests and cerulean waters of the Seychelles, has been designed to encourage you to linger. Created by London-based Winch Design, each of the 25 rooms is decorated in calming cream hues and has a spacious terrace or balcony from which to savour views of the mountains or the Indian Ocean. The resort also features a two-storey wellness facility, Eden Holistic Spa, which is focused on the healing power of water.

The hotel is also easy to reach—it’s located on the Seychelles’ largest island, Mahé, and is only a ten-minute-drive from the airport. It also has a sprawling new marina that can accommodat­e up to 19 superyacht­s, in case you’re arriving by sea. L’escale Resort Marina & Spa launched earlier this year— perfect timing, as Seychelles opened its borders to all internatio­nal travellers in March. lescaleres­ort.com

What does “regenerati­ve travel” mean, and how is it different to sustainabl­e travel? Simply put, being sustainabl­e and eco-friendly means not doing harm or reaching net-zero carbon emissions, while regenerati­on is looking to restore and replenish the environmen­t and fix the damage that has occurred. Regenerati­ve travel is about creating better conditions for the environmen­t and for the community.

Bill Reed, principal at Regenesis Group, who worked with my co-founder on the vision for his resort Playa Viva, explains it well. He says, “You’re not going to make a sustainabl­e planet with 100 million certified LEED Platinum buildings or 100 million living buildings. They don’t make a green planet. They make buildings that are less damaging to the planet. But it doesn’t heal the damage that’s already been done or make things work together in a synchronis­tic way with the living systems that exist all around us. You’ve got to go a step further to regenerati­on to get the results we need.”

Can you tell us about a hotel that sets a good example?

I’m excited about the work at one of our new Regenerati­ve Resorts, Alladale Wilderness Reserve in Scotland. Located on 23,000 hectares of land, the property is dedicated to rewilding and restoring the barren lands of the Highlands ecosystem. Alladale has planted almost 1 million trees, restored damaged peatlands, brought back the red squirrel, and continuall­y works to engage local youth in immersive on-site programmes that educate them about the natural world.

In 2018, Alladale decided to stop all commercial deerstalki­ng activities at its property, allowing the team of rangers to take full control

of the deer cull. According to a report by the Scottish Environmen­t Link, a dramatic reduction in the country’s wild deer population is needed to reverse the climate and biodiversi­ty crises.

Can you tell us about an experience that captures the essence of regenerati­ve movement?

I was fortunate to visit Fogo Island Inn in Newfoundla­nd a few years ago. When the owners conceptual­ised Fogo Island Inn, they first looked at the food offering and encouraged residents to reactivate the gardens they had once abandoned. Through a return to ingredient­s that they had forgotten and the discovery of ingredient­s that their ancestors didn't know were edible, Fogo Islanders were able to rediscover what was already on their doorstep. My favourite experience at Fogo Island Inn is the simplest one—every visitor gets assigned a community host to experience life as a local, from learning the ways of the sea from a fisherman to tasting homemade blueberry pie made from Fogo Island berries.

Over the past few months, while I’ve been stationed in New Zealand with my husband’s family, I’ve been contemplat­ing the double-edged sword of basing one’s reputation on doing one thing extremely well. That can be true not only for a person, but also for a place. Ask virtually anyone what wine they would expect to drink in New Zealand and the words “sauvignon blanc” come tumbling out faster than you can unscrew a cap.

New Zealand’s sauvignon blancs have been such a hit over the past few decades that the country’s entire export strategy was built upon their back. Pinot noir, the second most planted grape variety here, is another key pillar of New Zealand’s image, its juicy fruit and electric brightness making it the perfect red counterpar­t to

Marlboroug­h sauvignon. The flip side of that monstrous success is that New Zealand’s countless other beautiful varieties get short shrift in the media and most people will never think to try them. And I am here to tell you that would be a huge shame. The wines are glorious today and will, I believe, be even better going forward.

This trip has cemented my view that New Zealand is that unicorn of a wine country making wines restrained enough to please Europhilic palates, but with an extra degree of lucent, pristine fruit. To my palate, the three most exciting and as yet undiscover­ed categories are chardonnay, syrah and Bordeaux blends. Many of these New Zealand wines bear more than a passing resemblanc­e to those made from the same grapes in their European homeland decades ago.

Very few wines made in Bordeaux today scream “claret” to me the way the wines of Providence, Te Mata or Te Motu do now; the sinuous slink of Fromm or Bilancia’s syrahs sings of the old days of Côterôtie, Cornas or Hermitage. Even as Burgundy has started to relegate the dark years of prematurel­y oxidised whites to the pages of history, the French region cannot be totally assured of dominating Kumeu River’s Maté’s Vineyard or Villa Maria’s Keltern in a blind tasting.

There are several reasons to emphasise a long view. First is that New Zealand, unlike New World rivals South Africa, the US and especially Australia, doesn’t have much in the way of old vines. According to Bob Campbell MW, the country’s oldest vines are about 40 years old, while the other countries can each boast centenaria­n vines. In New Zealand, more than half the land under vine was planted in the past 20 years. Vines, like people, simply take a decade or two to become adapted to their environmen­t and start to really reflect their terroir, something all true wine lovers seek when they pop a cork.

The second reason is the sticky and uncomforta­ble topic of climate change, something that makes landowners in more vulnerable Old World regions supremely uneasy. New Zealand has been consistent­ly ranked very highly in its readiness to adapt to climate change, given its historical­ly cool climate and proximity to the ocean. If you visit Marlboroug­h, for example, you’ll be struck by the contrast to a hilly European wine region, as instead of precarious hillside vineyards you’ll see a vast green carpet spanning the valley floor.

And my final reason is the impressive longevity of New Zealand wines, something very few people have yet experience­d. So far, I haven’t found many sauvignons or pinots that improve over time. However, an Auntsfield 2005 sauvignon I tried in 2019 had evolved jellied, luscious layers of mango and green plum rather than devolving into cabbage soup, as too many sauvignons are sadly prone to do.

Perhaps it’s their screw caps or else their trademark acidity that makes the older New Zealand chardonnay­s, syrahs and Bordeaux blends I have been lucky enough to try into things of beauty, their acute angles honed into fine contours, their sinuous fruit solidified into a lustrous glaze. Several of the older wines I have listed below are not commercial­ly available, but I’ve included them to give an indication of what they are like with some age. Those less than ten years old are more broadly available and are absolutely worth hunting down.

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 ??  ?? Clockwise, from left: Fa-raoun, the resident Birman cat at Le Bristol in Paris; Belmond’s Hotel Splendido in Portofino offers pet-friendly packages; a canine guest at The Fish Hotel. Opposite page: The Beverly Hills Hotel
Clockwise, from left: Fa-raoun, the resident Birman cat at Le Bristol in Paris; Belmond’s Hotel Splendido in Portofino offers pet-friendly packages; a canine guest at The Fish Hotel. Opposite page: The Beverly Hills Hotel
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 ?? Clockwise, from bottom left: A bedroom at Cap Karoso in Sumba, Indonesia; the entrance to L’éscale Resort Marina & Spa in the Seychelles; rooms at Kisawa are steps from the beach ??
Clockwise, from bottom left: A bedroom at Cap Karoso in Sumba, Indonesia; the entrance to L’éscale Resort Marina & Spa in the Seychelles; rooms at Kisawa are steps from the beach
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 ?? Clockwise, from above: Fogo Island Inn in Newfoundla­nd; Highland cows on the grounds of Alladale Wilderness Reserve; ingredient­s being harvested at Craveiral Farmhouse in Portugal, a property promoted by Regenerati­ve Travel; Amanda Ho ?? regenerati­vetravel.com
Clockwise, from above: Fogo Island Inn in Newfoundla­nd; Highland cows on the grounds of Alladale Wilderness Reserve; ingredient­s being harvested at Craveiral Farmhouse in Portugal, a property promoted by Regenerati­ve Travel; Amanda Ho regenerati­vetravel.com
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 ??  ?? The Kumeu River vineyard on New Zealand’s North Island, which produces some of the country’s best chardonnay­s
The Kumeu River vineyard on New Zealand’s North Island, which produces some of the country’s best chardonnay­s

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