A Real Gem
Tatler’s latest House Stories event
The future of lab-grown diamonds is a hot topic in the jewellery world and on June 23 industry experts joined Tatler’s executive editor of style, Annie Darling, at the Sky Lounge at The Upper House for an in-depth talk about the rise of the gems’ popularity.
On the panel were Leslie Roskind, head of jewellery for Bonhams Hong Kong; Hpone-phyo Kan-nyunt, head of laboratory at Gübelin Gem Lab; and Nicholas Chow, founder and director of lab-grown
diamond jewellery brand Weekdays + Weekends, which also goes by 5 + 2.
Each panellist brought a different perspective to the table. Chow emphasised manmade stones’ practicalities, which include cost and wearability. “Mined diamonds develop over billions of years, but lab-grown diamonds can be made in seven to ten days for a fraction of the price and can also be customised. I can make jewellery much faster than the Earth can,” he said to laughter from the audience.
Contrary to popular belief, Chow said labgrown diamonds aren’t a “copy and paste” creation, but have different gradings, clarity and carats, just like their mined counterparts. However, Kan-nyunt said the charm of mined diamonds lies in their unpredictability. “Chemically and structurally the diamonds are the same; the difference is that mined diamonds have rarity, which lab diamonds do not have.”
With the need for more environmentally and ethically sound diamond-mining practices, lab-grown diamonds have become popular among eco-conscious buyers. Kan-nyunt said the responsibility for helping consumers to make an informed decision lay with the industry, and he called for greater transparency in the supply chain of naturally mined diamonds. Roskind agreed: “Twentyfive years ago, nobody cared about the origin of your rubies or sapphires, but today it’s hugely important—it’s essential for people to understand what kind of investment they are making,” she said.
As for the potential resale value of lab-made stones, Roskind was sceptical: “I’m not sure there is a resale market for lab diamonds. At auctions, brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston will always have resale value because people who come to us are looking for oneoff, rare pieces,” she said.
With major jewellery players like Debeers launching their own lab-grown jewellery brands, future debates on lab-grown diamonds might not be as polarised. “It’s always interesting to attract new clients and it’s important to know what the next generation is buying,” Roskind said.