FOR ANYONE SCHOOLED

in traditional Chinese cuisine, the foil trays of lurid colours and sticky sauces characteristic of British Chinese takeaways were once akin to sacrilege. However, the cuisine has now gained respect in its own right from international food critics, who acknowledge British Chinese food’s history, which dates back more than 100 years, when Hongkongers in London adapted their cooking to suit western tastes and make a living selling food. When new British Chinese restaurant 1908bc recently opened in Sheung Wan, the complaints weren’t about the food; they were about the prices. For owner Susanna Ho, a former investment banker, the restaurant is a homage to the takeaway her parents worked in when she was growing up in Bristol. She defended herself against the criticism she has received for selling chips and curry sauce for Hk$90—more than twice what the same dish would be in the UK— telling the South China Morning Post,

“Back in the UK potatoes are super cheap. That’s why we say, ‘It’s cheap as chips’. Chips are, like, four to five times more expensive here.”