Spain on the Brain
Chef Antonio Oviedo brings his heritage to Hong Kong with his new Spanish fine dining restaurant Agora, now open in Tai Kwun
What is your earliest memory of food? I grew up in Fuenlabrada, which is on the outskirts of Madrid. Near my home, there was an orchard that grew cucumbers, and every day, I had to pass it to go to school. The farmer would cut the cucumber into tiny pieces, season it with salt and give it to me. I also vividly remember sitting on a stool in the kitchen of my family home, peeling garlic for my mother. I always helped my mother cook when my brother and sister were busy doing other things. I don’t remember the dish exactly, but in winter, I was most likely helping make garlic soup, and in summer, it was probably gazpacho. I loved soup as a kid.
How has Hong Kong responded to Spanish restaurants here?
I’ve been in Hong Kong for five years now and I think Hongkongers have responded well to Spanish food. Our food has a lot of surf and turf and, funnily enough, a lot of connection to Chinese food, especially when you look at the Portuguese influence here. Many people have told me that the texture of [Spanish] candeal bread is like mantou bread. With [my other restaurant] 22 Ships, we tried to bring Spain’s multi-regional cuisine to Hong Kong. We were open in the middle of the pandemic, and the best compliment I ever received was from a customer who said, “I was supposed to be holidaying in Spain right now, but at least I can eat here.” What an honour.
In what ways do you hope to change the food scene in Hong Kong? Humbly speaking, I think we have already changed the scene. When [restaurateur and the CEO of JIA Group] Yenn Wong first asked me to come onboard for 22 Ships, I knew I had to do it. I think there was a lack of real Spanish food here. There were a few places here that were good, but I think we brought a totally different element to Hong Kong.
What makes your partnership with the JIA group so special?
There is a huge amount of trust. Yenn really trusts me, and when someone gives you that confidence it’s very special. I see how she operates with her other teams. She really allows you to develop a [restaurant’s] concept. I’ve been working in this business for 20 years, and I can say that I have never had this kind of complete trust before. I feel so supported and I’m not micromanaged. It’s amazing.
What inspired the name Agora?
I love art history and I love all the cultures that influence Spain— whether it’s the Greek, Roman, Phoenician or Arab influences. And our location in Tai Kwun is wonderful: the arches, the water deposits on the wall and the giant courtyard all remind me of Spain. I get sentimental when I think about it. The word agora represents the beauty of Spain and the melting pot of cultures. It means the “centre of life” where ideas converge.
What can visitors expect from your menu?
People can expect an authentic restaurant in Spain serving fine dining. I am essentially transporting you to my city, Madrid. I am very focused on the palate and seasonal ingredients, like hake [fish]. The food is contemporary and draws on my Spanish heritage with innovative twists. Uni flan, crayfish, baby squid and Rubia [Gallega] beef are all on the menu.
What do most restaurants get wrong with Spanish food?
I think the word “tapas” has been exploited [laughs]. Every small dish is a tapas now. It’s so overdone. In all seriousness, I’m very picky when it comes to paella. I only started cooking paella when I moved to Asia in 2012. I have never cooked it in my restaurants before, but I know what I like, which is a thin crispy layer [socarrat] at the bottom. I’ve been to places that make paella like a risotto. Every time you make wet risotto and call it a paella, a small cat dies in Spain [laughs]. People need to check their Spanish recipe books.
Tell us more about your work with the not-for-profit organisation World Central Kitchen.
The first time [chef and founder of World Central Kitchen] José Andrés and I collaborated was in 2021 when there was a volcanic eruption on La Palma in Spain’s Canary Islands. It was devastating and I knew I had to do something to give back. I contacted José for Agora as I wanted to implement the concept of giving back. We charge a one per cent fee on top of the bill that will go towards providing meals to those in need. It’s a small amount, but it makes a difference. The distribution of food is more than just nourishment: it’s love.
What are you most excited about for the future of Hong Kong?
When we opened 22 Ships [in 2012], it was one of the first restaurants to open on Ship Street. We created a whole new vibe on that street. I hope to keep doing that. The city is so alive when people are out and about and enjoying good weather. I hope that all comes back. We just need to stay positive.