CHATEAU CHANGYU MOSER XV, NINGXIA

I chatted at length with 15th-generation Austrian wine scion (hence “XV”) Laurenz “Lenz” Moser about his joint venture with mega-winery Changyu. He first went to China in 2005 and fell in love with the country. The initial deal involved his marketing and selling Changyu’s existing wines but ten years in, they mutually decided Moser would instead be chief winemaker of Chateau Changyu Moser, which opened its grandiose, Bordelais-style doors in Ningxia’s Helan Mountain region in 2013. The focus is cabernet sauvignon—the reds are 100%—with even blanc de noir made from the grape.

Bringing his familiarity with international consumers and insights from pre-harvest visits to 35 other Ningxia wineries, Moser was able to blend wines he felt truly expressed the region’s quality potential. They are now exported to 40 countries. Going forward, Moser sees most quality gains coming from the vineyards, which have been left patchy by annual vine burial and inexperienced workers. Beyond China, he says, “our ultimate goal and purpose is to belong in the company of the world’s finest”.

MOSER FAMILY RED WINE 2017

A generous lashing of black chocolate and dense plummy fruit gives way to a nutmeg and vanilla close. Dense layers are freshened by a dash of bitterness on the finish.

CHATEAU CHANGYU MOSER XV GRAND VIN 2017

Scorched cacao and burnt sage overlay blackberries that shade into blueberries. The fruit is solid and persistent, supported by polished, Napa-like tannins.