HELAN QINGXUE, NINGXIA

The name “Jia Bei Lan” has been lionised since the 2009 vintage of this pure cabernet won the Decanter World Wine Awards International Trophy in 2011, leaving the wine world vibrating with excitement and—in some quarters—nerves. Would China soon rival Bordeaux and Napa, flooding the world with inexpensive cabernet? Of course no such thing happened; top Chinese wines are principally enjoyed domestically and are rapidly becoming as expensive as any Pomerol or Napa cult wine. The quality, though, is unmistakable.

Helan Qingxue vineyard, named for the famous mountains and their iconic snowy vistas, was the first “demonstration vineyard” to be planted in Ningxia, in 2005. Its name is less familiar outside China than the name of its Grand Reserve Jia Bei Lan.

JIA BEI LAN GRAND RESERVE 2015

Nose begins quite quiet, with umami soy, cinnamon and star anise. Palate has a liquor cherry and black chocolate prettiness cut by bitter herb jelly. Gossamer tannins complement a fine patina of acidity.

JIA BEI LAN GRAND RESERVE 2016

Tar and liquorice lend angles to this much more curvaceous, black cherry and blackberry iteration of Jia Bei Lan. Tannin and fruit both reach a crescendo on the midpalate before ceding the floor to a peal of acidity.

JIA BEI LAN GRAND RESERVE 2017

Currently the most open of the three, with a bakingspice sweetness and ripe plum nose. The palate is filled with light, both of gem-like cassis fruit and glinting acidity. A cathedral arch of tactile tannins is beautifully distributed across the front and back palate.