A MOVE­ABLE FEAST

That's China - - 城市漫步 - Text by / David Kay

This snack is nei­ther big nor clever. Part of the ex­tended bing clan - a tribe I've be­come in­creas­ingly fa­mil­iar with over the years - this snack, im­ported from Tai­wan, is less of a bing and more of a ba­con and egg sand­wich on crack. It's Chi­nese name, Shou Zhua Bing, roughly trans­lates as ‘hand-grabbed pan­cake’ (or some­thing sim­i­lar) which I sup­pose refers to the way that chef (or rather, the street ven­dor) grabs, pulls and smashes the fried pan­cake with metal spat­ula be­fore adding the fried fill­ing and var­i­ous condi­ments that con­sti­tute a Shou Zhua Bing. You can find Shou Zhua Bing ven­dors in al­most any Chi­nese city you'd care to men­tion and, with a range of top­pings to choose from - rang­ing from ba­con to chicken and from pork fluff to fried eggs - these bad boys are per­fect at any time of the day, go­ing down a treat dur­ing your morn­ing com­mute to work and per­fect for soak­ing up the booze af­ter a heavy night on the tiles.You can or­der this crispy-won­der spicy (la de) or not spicy (bu la de) and pimp it up to your heart's con­tent with what­ever condi­ments and pow­ders the par­tic­u­lar ven­dor has on hand. It's ba­si­cally a sin­ful ball of greasy-crispy awe­some­ness that I'm sure even fat Elvis would have ap­proved of. Back in Eng­land, ba­con and egg sand­wiches were my must-have week­end break­fast of choice and, since I've been in China, these shawarma-style street bombs have taken their place as they tick all the right boxes - eggs, ba­con, and bread stuffed with ketchup - but also add their own twist to the ta­ble - spici­ness and cheap­ness. It's also fairly en­ter­tain­ing watch­ing the ven­dors man­i­cally grab the pan­cake with their tongs, as they re­ally get stuck in the process and most have their own spe­cial tech­nique to achieve the per­fectly crisped pan­cake. De­pend­able, cheap, tasty as hell and widely avail­able, the Shou Zhua Bing is your go-to-guy when you just want some­thing quick and easy with­out skimp­ing on the yum­fac­tor.

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