MIND MAP OF RUNWAYS

时装设计艺术风格纷繁多变。设计师眼光不同,理念也各异,设计手法自然是众彩纷呈。 Fashion design never stops changing. Designers vary in their perspectives and concepts as well as the approaches of their design.

Vantage Shanghai - - CONTENTS / 目录 - 作者Author/编辑Editor:王烨昇Johnny Wang

Design is creating from zero to everything. It requires the participants to be extremely creative. Dedicated designers must rely on themselves to secure a promising career. For instance, the current creative director of Gucci leaves us an artistic impression, while Lanvin’s director is right on his way to develop the Spring/Summer collection, which is injected with novel design concepts. Browsing the portfolios of the designers is having conversations with those creative souls.

INSPIRATION OF TRAVELLING

Travelling has always been a source of inspiration. For fashion designers it’s no exception. This year, Fendi’s Spring/Summer ladies’ collection visualises travel impressions onto clothes. The portfolio displays the charm of the globe – from the Italian futurism clashing with tropical elements, to the passionate and colourful Caribbean styles.

Take a look at the colours: they are the colours of the sea, the coral and the sand. Representative pieces stretch the lines from shoulder straight to the waist, where they neatly meet and conclude, followed by glorious pieces of dress. Layers of transparent texture are printed with symmetric stripes and checkers, and you can spot them on the organza shirts, rugby Polo shirts and knitwear, matched by the

设计,是从无到有的一个创作过程,要求设计师极富创造性。设计作品始终是在一张空白纸上开始,尽管有着众多的素材当参考,设计师仍然得从自身对时尚的理解着手。比如,Gucci现任设计总监令人感觉到他是一位内心极文艺的人,Lanvin新任的设计总监今年春夏是首次操刀该品牌的系列,一上任便把设计理念拉回了时装本身,让它重新掌握了用来表达设计意图的语言……每翻阅一个设计师的作品集,便是邂逅一个具有不凡创意的灵魂。

实地旅行的灵感

旅行一直是创意灵感的来源,对于时装设计师来讲也是如此。Fendi今年春夏的女装系列就把对于旅行的印象用时装设计语言描绘一番,作品集如电影般一幕幕展现世界的博大和精彩:意大利未来主义与热带旅行主题激情碰撞,加勒比海的热烈色彩与浓郁风情旋绕交织。

看看这个系列的色彩,各式海蓝色与海沫绿、珊瑚粉和沙灰色相映成趣,而数件作品的廓形从肩处以褶裥一泻而下,腰间利落收紧,继而如含苞的花朵般盛放为一袭美裙。层层透明面料上的图案重

trendy candy-striped shorts and corsages.

The denim windbreaker and strapless poplin outwear tighten the figure lines at the hip joint; the striped denim and cotton dress adopt high-waist design. The sequins create shining visual effects, while the combination of forest elements, fur and silk presents marvelous craftsmanship. As of the shoes, holed flats, along with tie-less shoes are decorated with rivets and vines. The sock boots, however, mix the “F” logo with futuristic patterns.

Meanwhile, Mon Trésor debuted their first handbag collection in their 2018 Spring/Summer season. The “shopping basket” handbag adopts luxurious leather with metal pearls as decoration; while the brand-new catwalk handbag is featured by transparent cross patterns and vine-shaped handles. Kan I F’s handbags return to fringe decorations and the Strap You handles. The monkey and banana patterns, along with the “Bao-bug” logos, further strengthen the Caribbean style of the series.

EMBRACING HUMANITARIANISM

The country that once initiated Renaissance never ignores the presence of style. Fulvio Rigoni’s Savatore Ferragamo 2018 Spring/Summer Collection embraces the grace of female and uses every means to show their charisma. Inspired by those celebrities that once wore Ferragamo’s delicate shoes, to name a few, Greta Garbo, Carmen Miranda, Brigitte Bardot, Eva Peron, and Marilyn Monroe, the collection aims to “applause for those women that created the vivid styles of their own and presented the uniqueness of the female sex,” said the creative director.

Sticking to the dominating concept, this season Ferragamo introduced a series of independently crafted works, which combines different styles of figures, textures, stamps and concepts together. The designer was inspired from a huge span of time – the pencil profile in the 1920s, the fringes in the 1930s, and the flared trousers from 1950s to 1970s – and constructed the story under the guidance of feminism, textures and colours. Each story is different, while each element is a surprising experience.

As of the colour tone, the series mainly concerns geranium pink, emerald green, bright red and plum purple, also with gentle pink and white colours. Meanwhile, texture is also a highlight in the series. Crocheted Chinese cotton and loose trousers create knitting effects; while the snake pattern on suede leather provides a mysterious semi-transparent effect.

The stamps are amazingly imaginative and creative: the stripes are facilitated with 3D effects, varying in different angles; the floral prints emerge as giant flowers blossoming on the sides, also work as the dominating theme of the whole piece; some even create X-rayed effects through layers of yarns. They are presented on dresses, upper wear and nightgowns, to transfer the elegance that only stays in summer.

Knitwear is highlighted with expertise in craftsmanship. The participance of ornaments adds a perfect finish to the leather collection. The purses are still signified with the golden or silver Gancini buttons. The handle is styled in the shape of bracelets as fashionable spotlights. The geometrical totes and fanny packs are coloured in chocolate brown. No matter the elastic boots, or the sandals and mules, the symbolic “Floral Heel” and “Birdcage Heel” could both been found. This is how the designer customizes for the ladies to show their unique charm.

叠交错,对称的条纹和棋盘格清晰可见:保龄球衫变身欧根纱衬衫、橄榄球Polo衫及粗线针织衫,内搭糖果条纹短裤及胸衣,倍显身材的凹凸有致。

单宁布风衣和府绸上装露出香肩,并在髋处收紧;条纺单宁与细条纹纯棉裙则采用了高腰设计。裸色亮片微光闪烁创造出视觉亮点,蕨叶刺绣、钉珠欧根纱、喜林芋和棕榈叶、花朵图案皮花装饰、皮草与丝绸雪纺面料的结合则充分展现出巧夺天工的高超手艺。鞋履方面,尖头网眼平底鞋与无带鞋以格呢钉珠、绑带及藤编鞋跟作为装饰,袜靴上则将F标识与未来主义花案趣味拼贴。

同时,Mon Trésor手袋在2018春夏系列T台上首次亮相,这个“购物篮”形状的手袋采用了异域风情的奢华皮质,并以金属珍珠结彩装饰;全新的秀款手提袋则采用透明格呢网眼和圆形藤编提手设计。Kan I F手袋再次回归拉菲草流苏装饰和Strap You的叶状麂皮提手。猴子、香蕉和Bao-bug标识,更加凸显出该系列浓郁的加勒比海度假风情。

赞扬人性的意识

文艺复兴的国度从来不缺风骨,由Fulvio Rigoni所创作的 Salvatore Ferragamo2018春夏系列便旨在颂扬女性,升华她们千面的风格、个性和美丽。设计灵感来自那些穿过品牌鞋履独一无二的女子:格里泰·嘉宝、卡门·米兰达、碧姬·芭铎、伊娃· 贝隆和玛丽莲·梦露,那位传奇鞋匠造就了她们优雅的魅力。“世界上没有两个女人是一样的——我想要颂扬女性的个性、风格和生动的色彩,以表达不断升华的女性气质,”设计总监这样表示。

与其理念相似,这一季呈现了许多独立的作品,各种轮廓、纹理、印花和风格态度,根据个人风格自由地混搭组合。设计师从一个巨大的时间框架中汲取灵感—— 20世纪20年代的铅笔廓形、30年代的流苏、50年代的长裙和70年代的喇叭裤——以女性气质、质感和色彩作为叙事的共同主线,每个造型都讲述了不同的故事,皆呈现了令人惊喜的元素。

色调上,采用天竺葵粉色、翠绿、亮红色和梅紫以及柔和橡皮粉和白色。同时,纹理元素成为本季的主角,钩编中国棉使得上衣和阔腿裤呈现出针织的效果;穿孔设计在绒面革上细小而在手绘巨蟒图案上巨大,斑斑驳驳地打造出半透视的视觉效果,既出人意料又尽显生动。

独一无二的印花充满想象力和创造力:条纹图案提供了非比寻常的3D效果,仿佛不同的面料被覆盖、分层和扭曲,而花卉图案则在身侧以巨大的花朵形式出现,或朦胧地成为全身的主题,有时还会将图案通过薄纱叠加在一起,呈现出宛如X光照射般的效果。它们出现在连衣裙、上衣和晚礼服上,长度不一,通常不对称,传达出更为流畅、清爽的夏日优雅。

高技巧的手工艺提升针织衫的品质,更加入了耗费工时的拼花镶嵌技术。小配件的加入,为皮具起到了画龙点睛的效果。皮包依旧配有金色或银色的标志性Gancini扣式。手镯形把手细腻时尚,令人回味无穷。几何形的托特以及腰包多为富有质感的巧克力棕。无论是刺绣弹力靴,还是平底凉鞋和穆勒鞋,皆可以发现品牌标志性的“花漾跟”和“鸟笼跟”。

VIEW OF RETROSPECT

Abiding by aesthetics, designers drag the attention back to the fashion design itself and ignite the passion through pursuing the on-skin effect. Lanvin’s new collection is presented by the new director Olivier Lapidus. He combines the return of essence and the 21st century trends together. This triggers our memory of Jeanne Lanvin, of her and her daughter on the logo and their lovely stories.

Jeanne absorbed inspiration from the aesthetic elements and infused with her fresh ideas. The series applies many of her favoured colours, including emerald, cherry colour, ruby, nude colour, azure, black, white and gold. Kimono sleeves, pagoda sleeves, butterfly knots, geometrical tailoring, shamrock, semi-transparent materials are all added and redefined to construct the grand image of the series. Meanwhile, the “LANVIN” and initiatives “JL” stamps are featured in Art Deco font, which leaves us an unforgettable impression.

The designs highlight the lightness and vividness of summer. For instance, the asymmetrical one-piece, strapless garments are indeed the representative pieces to show. Pants of all sizes are also dedicated to show the elegance belong to the season. Carefully selected yarns and super-slim wool eventually turn out to be the glorious piece of clothing that everyone is fascinated with…

Meanwhile, the brand-new accessory collection is also incredibly eye-catching. The classic city handbags now transform into electric blue crocodile skin backpacks, and the stylish peep toe boots add a golden touch to the shoe collection. This season Lanvin also covers a range of jewellery, including necklaces, earrings, and golden bracelets. Some are featured with Jeanne Lanvin’s favourite elements (daisy, shamrock), while some represent the Art Deco of the 1930s.

回溯本源的视线

设计师的思路可以沿着文艺的线索攀爬,也可以把视线拉回时装本身,以作品的实穿美感为诉求,点亮设计的激情。Lanvin今年的春夏系列是新任艺术总监Olivier Lapidus操刀的首个系列,在回归品牌本源的同时,又诠释了21世纪潮流风尚。这种纯真的感情令人不得不回忆起Jeanne Lanvin,那位品牌logo上拉着女儿的贵妇婉约形象以及她和女儿之间的动人故事。

新任艺术总监从Jeanne挚爱的美学元素中汲取灵感,并融入别致新意。系列里采用了多个Jeanne钟爱的色彩,包括祖母绿、樱草色、红宝石色、裸色、浅蓝色、黑白和金色等。和服袖、宝塔袖、扭褶袖、喇叭蝴蝶结、几何剪裁、四叶草图案、连体裤、半透明材质——这些Jeanne标志性的设计元素经过重新演绎,贯穿在整个系列之中,打造出极具现代魅力的迷人造型。同时运用装饰艺术 (Art Deco) 字体“LANVIN”和“JL”印花来演绎Jeanne Lanvin的姓名和首字母缩写,令该系列意趣盎然。

设计中,夏季的轻盈和灵动之美被设计师用巧妙的方式表达得淋漓尽致。例如别致的不对称连衣裙、精美露肩单品、翩然飘逸的精裁廓形;长裤、短裤以及喇叭裤的设计也尽显轻盈动感。精选真丝乔其纱、真丝绉纱、绗缝棉布和超细120支羊毛等上乘面料打造,乔其纱衬料上还点缀以金银丝条纹和几何金银丝,更添璀璨光华……

同时,精心设计的全新配饰系列同样气韵非凡:经典都市包袋焕新演绎为电光蓝鳄鱼皮背包,独具特色的露趾踝靴为鞋履系列添上点睛之笔……本季系列还包含了多款珠宝作品,包括项链、颈链、耳环、浅金色或钌金色手镯,或融入Jeanne Lanvin珍爱的元素(雏菊、四叶草),或巧妙重释30年代装饰艺术风格,别具动人风致。

THE STORY OF IDEOLOGY

Human activities are always related to ideology. So is fashion designing. In this season’s Gucci collection, designer put focus on the ideology. Undoubtedly, creating is a poetic process. It’s sourced from the flow of mind and desire and eventually erupts to carry a brand-new meaning of life. The revolutionary transition carries with the shattering and replacement of traditions. In that way, as Deleuze once said, to create is to defy, that’s the most important thing.

This series focus on presenting the balance of aesthetics. Every single piece vibrates with the power of wisdom. The glorious pleat and leopard print outwear, along with the stamped dress construct the world of clashes of era – where the sexy language popularized in the 1940s bumps into the pastoral design that emerged in later years – creating a new ideology through the combat of time. The square shoulder design again shows new possibilities in presenting dramatic effects in accompany with rich toned colours. Meanwhile, in match with the fascinatingly crafted stamps and diamond-shaped dress, the image reminisces the aristocratic version of Don Quixote.

It is rebellion against stereotypes. As Camus said, one must rebel against the status quo in sacrifice of the existence. In this point, then, every endeavour to challenge the possibilities is critical.

Then, challenge and fight! Fight against the spell of speed, for it leads us unconsciously into the abyss of boredom. Fight against the illusion that misleads us for the sole purpose of novelty. There’s no shortcut as strategy. It requires us with enduring courage, a careful mind alert, and an elegant perspective towards life. This is what Gucci 2018 Spring/Summer collection tries to convince us. It defies absurd rebirth, but sticks to devoted energy in interpreting the depth of beauty.

Cheer and fight! The dark world has been aroused by Heidegger. Fight and eliminate all the dim shades of differences, the clichés and the dictatorship of mono culturalism. Call for the potentials of exploring the world with a bold heart. As of this, we are creating the glorious poetry to anthem personality, we are celebrating the art of our own life, body and soul. Invite yourself to begin the journey of self-transcendence!

It is under such premise that Gucci proposed the challenging “fashion phenomenology”. In the map of a poetically celebrated lifestyle, you find the way to a new life.

意识形态的故事

大凡人类做的事情,都离不开意识形态的影子,时装设计亦是如此。在Gucci本季的作品中,设计师便强化表达了这种意识。毫无疑问,创造是一种诗意行为。它是种由急迫、幽灵和欲望组成的岩浆,从地心迸发的过程;是一股不断漩涡的潮流,最后越来越浓密而传送出全新意义;是一次曾经被压抑但却充满生命强度,而最终被释放出来的爆炸。这样的革命性行为产生了板块的坍塌,打破了传统的硬壳;使看似坚固之物变质;形成了替代和质疑。从这层意义上来看,正如德勒兹(Deleuze)所言,创造行为就是抗衡行为,且为首要之最。

这个系列正体现了这种美学的抗衡锻炼。每件服装都颤动着智识的张力,抗衡着制式。百褶长裙华丽,却与形似肩章的颈饰相配,恍若中古武士闯入晚装场合;以红色包边修饰的豹纹外套充满野性暗示,而与之相匹的印花长裙却以轻薄的材质显得如此轻歌曼舞,上世纪40年代流行的性感强势风格与后来田园风光般的清雅设计碰撞在一起,在冲突中塑造新的意识;大廓形方肩的运用在系列中又有了新的方式,系列中运用的高饱和度 色彩又为这种在传统意义上极具权力感的时装风格增添了些许戏剧化的感觉,不再是以往的简约感。同时在极具故事感的印花与菱形踏纹裙搭配下,仿佛勾勒出文艺作品中贵族版的堂·吉诃德。

这是一场对墨守成规的反叛,争取差异是种不可剥夺的权利。诚如加缪(Camus)所言,反叛是以失去但可能存在之名挑战着既有之实。在这点来说,这样对所有可能性的挑战是至关重要的。

那么,抗衡吧!抗衡加速,它会执迷于冲击且让生活陷于粉碎之危。抗衡那些会粗暴的引导我们迷失自我的速度咒语。抗衡那些会让人为了新鲜感而不计代价的错觉。没有捷径可作为策略。它要求要有缓慢经历的勇气;要保持小心;要能一边开阔且优雅的呼吸,同时又让自己沉浸于故事的深挖。这正是古驰2018春夏系列所为,拒绝另起篇章,执着地专注于诠释缓慢之美。

在这个系列中,黑暗世界似乎被海德格尔唤醒。抗衡着湮灭所有差异的黑暗,抗衡着随波逐流以及专横地摧毁其他多元的可能性,也抗衡着所有雷同。相反的,要召唤这种不去以定义简化人类奇性的潜能。错综复杂的认同纷纷兴起,抗衡着范畴、分类,以及毁灭性的界限。于此而言,设计师似乎创造出的是歌颂自主的欢愉诗篇。这是对身体、生活与美学都能自主的自由庆典。这是个做你自己的邀约,这也意味着唯一可以确保越来越靠近愉悦的真实逾越。

在此框架下,古驰提出了持疑精神的时尚现象学,这是一张可以学着诗意地活在这个世界的地图,能超脱于持续性与标准化带来的单调。

本页起顺时针CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PAGE本页均为Gucci今年春夏的设计All design by Gucci this page;复古又文艺的成衣设计Retro design of prêt-à-porter;配饰设计的流畅感Fluid outline of high heels;设计简约而点睛Key piece in simple design;经典的材质与用色Classic colour and texture;小配件上的装饰感Details on...

左页起顺时针CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT PAGE 本页均为Lanvin今年春夏的设计 All design by Lanvin this page; T台成衣作品一改Elbaz时期的风格 Changed prêt-à-porter styles from Elba’s time;配件设计保留了些许优雅High heels with elegant design;配饰更有装饰主义的感觉Accessories of Art Déco style

本页起顺时针CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PAGE Salvatore Ferragamo今年春夏的设计 Salvatore Ferragamo this season; Fendi的腕表款式Timepieces by Fendi; Fendi的手提袋富有浓郁的加勒比风情 Carribean mood by Fendi; Fendi的 Sapce Monkey挂饰Space Monkey drop by Fendi

Prada今年春夏的秀场以女性绘制的女性形象画为装饰Female drawings decorated on Prada’s runway

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