Marvellous craftsmanship crystallises time into a school of art.

曼妙工艺将时光的流逝制成了一种美轮美奂的艺术。

Vantage Shanghai - - HIGH LIFE / 慢生活 -

SIHH is no simple exhibition of fine timepieces; it’s also the stage for watch masters to present their craftsmanship in creating the art of timekeeping, be it about romanticism, or aesthetic value.

CAMEO & THE BALLOON

When it comes to the most artistic works at the exhibition, Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers collection is in a league of its own. On the watchcase there is an image of the first hot air balloon in the world, which was designed and driven by Étienne de Montgolfier.

Speaking of hot air balloons, they were the most realistic approach to air travel before the Wright Brothers’ invention of the aeroplane. The maiden balloon flight by the Montgolfier Brothers took place on 21st November 1783. Later, after Jules Verne (8 February 1828 – 24 March 1905) published his A Voyage in a Balloon on 31st January, 1863, the then-primitive flight machine had already become many people’s dream vehicle to the sky.

In order to visualise the past aviation dream, craftsmen adopted cameo, which was popularised in the Renaissance era, to create the hot air balloon on the watch.

Each hot air balloon requires up to three weeks of craftsmanship in order to reproduce the entire range of subtle feature and ornamental details of the original works. The dials thus compose authentic miniature scenes graced with an extraordinary variety of motifs. The pounced ornament technique consists of removing material so as to fashion relief effects. This irreversible operation calls for an impeccably deft touch. The master engraver first traces the volumes using a dry point technique, before sculpting the precious mass, which creates a particularly delicate rounded effect. This stage serves to carve out the curves of the balloon and the basket, as well as the lines of the ropes. The burins are repeatedly sharpened so as to achieve extreme precision. The level of finishing becomes ever more sophisticated, all the way through to the smallest details of the human figures, animals, and the meticulous decoration of the balloons.

On the dials of the Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers collection, a translucent background in sky blue, dark blue, turquoise, brown or burgundy, evoke a spirit of airy transparency. Vacheron Constantin is, for the first time, calling upon this skill mastered by very few enamellers. Its layout is reminiscent of cloisonné enamelling; while the absence of a base recalls a miniature stained-glass window. The balance between the various shades is extremely subtle, as is the polishing of the partitions between them.

MICRO-CARVING & SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES

Wristwatches with gems are not rare. However, Piaget brought the virtuoso skills of stone marquetry to this year’s SIHH. The Altiplano welcomes a tourbillon and invites malachite and lapis lazuli to adorn its dial.

Different from the crystal nature of rare gems like diamonds, malachite and lapis lazuli are dense and rich in colour, and they vary in details due to variations of environment, which happen to give more ground for creativity.

These two precious pieces were created by “Maître d’Art” Hervé Obligi. His expertise in gem art has earned him the title of “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant”. In his eyes, gems are

在SIHH表展上能看到的,绝非仅仅是表款而已,更能见到一众艺术家与工匠以千锤百炼的技艺,把表盘成就为一方艺术的空间,有的文艺,有的精美,有的浪漫,都随着时光悠悠绽放。

浮雕之下的文艺风范

若说这次SIHH展上哪一款腕表最具文艺气息,那江诗丹顿这块“热气球”腕表可堪头筹,表盘上展现了由艾蒂安·蒙戈尔菲埃设计并首飞的高空热气球。

说起热气球,这可能是人类在莱特兄弟之前,距离飞翔梦想最近的一步了,从第一个制作载人热气球的法国造纸商蒙戈尔菲埃兄弟1783年11 月21日的成功尝试,到1863年1月31日法国作家儒勒·凡尔纳著名作品《气球上的星期五》首版,这种在当代看来已经比较原始的飞行手段,其实承载了当初颇具情怀的憧憬。

为了生动表达这种极具文艺气息的情怀,工匠们采用了浮雕这种在文艺复兴时期名声大噪的技艺来打造表盘上的热气球形象。

在金子上进行浮雕已非易事,而在表盘这样方寸空间内更是难上加难。一般来讲,工匠会先用铜版雕刻技术描摹出层次,而后再在珍稀材料上进行精心雕刻,避免失误造成的错刻。从实际效果上看,热气球表面的细腻,甚至呈现出类似“拉丝”工艺所体现的纹理,随着观赏角度的变化,会呈现出明暗对比的不同。热气球其他的部位也有上佳的质感,例如载人区的帷幕便有着柔和的 表面视觉质感。此外,如果观察仔细的话,还能看到着陆时轻微受损的篮筐和飘荡绳索图案,位于金质气球下方以白金雕刻而成。

微雕成就的宝石空间

镶嵌珍贵宝石的腕表作品并不少见,但这次伯爵表用了半宝石来打造作品,居然也表现出珍贵宝石所不具有的魅力。和钻石等珍贵宝石通透的效果不同,这两种半宝石有着浓郁而致密的色彩。由于在天然环境中的生长条件不同,绿松石和青金石都会呈现出深浅不一的不透明色彩,这便给了艺术家发挥的空间。

这两块作品是由法国艺术家Hervé Obligi打造,他从事宝石工艺良久,赢得法国“活文化遗

the most charming things on earth, “I love all stones; their hardness, their fragility, their resistance; their extraordinary relationship with the colour and the idea of lasting continuity that wood cannot satisfy. Stone tolerates no mistakes and is more likely to make others bend than break itself. The high demands it imposes naturally inspire humility.”

The miniature stone marquetry technique represents a real challenge and calls for great mastery. Crafting such a dial comprises four crucial stages and requires between two and three weeks of work.

Everything begins with a rough stone from which blocks are cut into extremely fine slices barely 1mm thick, compared with 3 to 4mm for traditional marquetry. Once cut, the stones are polished so as to precisely determine the tone and colour of the stone, given that reducing thickness also reduces the intensity of the colour. The choice of stones is thus essential.

The contour of each element is precisely traced on the stone by a pointed brass tool. The plate is cut into extremely thin strips using a tiny bow saw composed of a hazel tree branch and an abrasive-coated steel wire. Once cut out, the elements are adjusted and assembled with neighbouring components. The facing thus composed is affixed to a smooth red or white gold surface before heat gluing the joints by filing the empty space between the bevelled edges with pine resin.

Besides, this series is equipped with tourbillon, and the technologies featured within are also the most advanced.

PAINTING & THE FAIRY-TALE

Van Cleef & Arpels take pride in their “Mystery Setting” technique, far earlier than Tiffany’s “Six Claw Round Diamond Solitaire”. Moreover, on this year’s SIHH, Van Cleef & Arpels showed off the micro-painting technique, combined by enamel, carving, and inlay. Take a look at the Lady Arpels Nuit Féerique, you won’t miss the romantic poetry narrated under the moonlight. The curvy surface went through precise carvings and inlaid with diamonds and sapphires, glistening with sparkles, as if attracting the fairies to pay their curious visits.

The extraordinarily colourful scene needs more than one technique to realise, for sure. On this piece, you will find the starry sky is created through aventurine, the fairy’s dress is made of carved gold and micro painting, while the diamonds portray the flying meteor. In order to create the fluffy clouds, Van Cleef & Arpels’ craftsman adopted onyx, a glossy and gentle material to contrast with the blue, pink and purple sapphires on the dial. The background features a garden, which extends the romantic starry scene to a grander environment.

Lady Arpels Jour Féerique from the same series put a carved sun figure as the foreground with a curvy outline; meanwhile the yellow sapphires and garnets further enrich the tone of the scene. Gentle sunrays, however, are created through three different textures of gold. Calaites, pearls, enamel, and diamonds infuse the sky with either smoky or transparent hues of light, resulting in a delicate and contrasted effect of layers.

Whether it’s cameo or painting, these masterful techniques contribute to the creation of incredible arts. They are inherited through these precious and luxurious time machines, and gain commercial vitality as well.

产”的头衔。在他看来,宝石具有独特的魅力,“我喜爱所有宝石,更迷恋其硬度、易碎程度、阻力以及与色彩的独特关系。宝石的永垂不朽正是木材无法取代的特质。宝石加工不容任何差错,为避免破损,你只能臣服于它的天性。”

这种精密的表盘制作工序一般分为四个重要阶段,整个过程需耗时两至三周。这需要将原石切割成仅一毫米厚的纤细薄片,比厚度为三至四毫米的传统嵌花更加透薄。由于随着厚度的减少,宝石的显色度会减小,最直观的影响,就是看上去特别“通透、轻盈”,当然这种特质本身并非瑕疵,但是与设计这两枚作品的初衷就南辕北辙了。因此,在挑选宝石上,非大师不可。

在万事俱备后,工匠就会用尖锐的黄铜工具在宝石上勾勒每个表盘元素的轮廓线,然后以榛树枝和研磨涂层钢线制成的小型弓锯把薄片切割成纤细幼条。完成切割后,经调整的宝石元素会与相邻部件接合,再把组成的表盘固定在平滑的玫瑰金或白金表面,于斜边空隙涂上松树脂后,以热熔技术接合,最后才能呈现出色彩层次丰富而致密的整体效果。

彩绘而出的浪漫世界

被称为“珠宝世家”的梵克雅宝的隐秘镶嵌法在珠宝设计界堪称经典,蒂芙尼的六爪镶嵌在它面前也只能称后起之秀而已。不仅如此,在本届展览上,梵克雅宝又拿出了微型彩绘技艺大秀一番,集合了珐琅、雕刻和镶嵌等绝技于一身。

这种色彩丰富的画面仅靠一种技艺绝难实现,在一些作品上,夜空中闪闪星辰是砂金石,仙子的礼服是由镂雕白K金和微型彩绘打造,而钻石的镶嵌则勾勒出那颗流星和它的轨迹。为了实现云彩柔和质感,工匠选用的是缟玛瑙硬宝石,光泽剔透但不锐利,极好地烘托出表盘上蓝色、粉红色和紫色蓝宝石的地位。表底镌刻花园的美景,又将草地上凝望星空的细腻情感进一步延伸。

浮雕也好,彩绘也好,这些工艺绝技美轮美奂,在这些名贵而奢侈的物件上代代传承,又获得现代的商业活力。

根据原稿的图案选择绿松石Selecting the turquoise according to the original drawing

梵克雅宝作品上,仙子裙部的微绘Miniature painting on the fairy’s dress

伯爵表的装配过程中,组件模块放置于金质座盘上 The gem stone being assembled craftsmanship金质浮雕的工艺 Cameo

江诗丹顿艺术大师系列热气球腕表 Les Aérostiers of Métiers d’Art by Vacheron Constantin

热气球部位的细节Exquisite details

根据原稿的图案选择蓝宝石 Selecting the sapphires according to the original drawing

在表壳背部手工雕刻云朵Hand engraving of a cloud on the back of the case

把沙金石打磨成云朵的形状Sculpting a cloud in aventurine

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