RE-CLOTHING, A VOYAGE OF TIME

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“生态、环保”, 这种曾经无论如何没法和时装扯上关系的概念, 在中国这个时装业基础并不深厚的国度里似乎获得了新的发展机会。这在近两年的上海时装周上就可以看出来——在国内时尚行业中,上海时装周算得上是近两年越来越为公众所知的活动了。从前几年开始,国内时装品牌“再造衣银行”就开始在时装周上亮相,用的是“旧物再造”的概念,但是系列出来却亮眼得很,完全颠覆了之前个别评论的论点——认为“生态、环保、旧物再造”的概念不容易做出时装本应该有的时尚感。

在这个名叫“别致的天真”系列中,设计师张娜把再造衣银行Reclothing Bank X FAKE NATOO互为组合,展现了许多设计上的亮点。比如再生面料与旧衣拼接面料的使用、与“诺乐”合作的手工牦牛绒毡面料等。在如何让系列更为实穿这个问题上,柔和色彩的运用是设计师的解决方案,同时通过对复杂面料的减法处理,舒适、宽松、有体量的轮廓成为本季设计的重心,令整个系列更容易穿着。

值得关注的是,此季系列里,设计师还剔除了过度的时装修饰感,把穿着者和旁观者的注意力集中到日常的真实生活,让时装回归到衣服本身上来。“衣服是每个人表达自己的美学陈列,从这个角度上说,我们日常穿着就是一场关于自我的展览,而我们的真实生活这个剧场就是一个秀场。”

这种理念也体现在秀场的布置上。这次的秀场布置由张娜与当代剧场艺术家小

Ecology hasn’t always been an intimate part of fashion. Nevertheless, it is becoming increasingly popular in China – where the clothing industry itself is also in a state of evolution and maturation.

It is evident to spot this trend in recent years’ Shanghai Fashion Week – the flagship fashion event in mainland China.

It was here that domestic brand, Reclothing

Bank, made its debut a few years ago. Through a unique ‘up-cycling’ concept, it has overthrown old stereotypes, which dictated environmental consciousness and recycling as incompatible with cutting-edge fashion.

In the brand’s Delicate Innocence collection, Reclothing Bank designer Zhang Na collaborated with FAKE NATOO to explore new ideas using recycled fabric and old materials. To keep the collection wearable and approachable, Zhang stuck to gentle colours, fabrics simplified in form, and prioritized comfort.

Also worth mentioning is the elimination of decorative elements in the collection – with attention focused on daily life, instead of the fashion pieces themselves. As Zhang says, “Clothes show our aesthetic attitudes. Our everyday fashion is an exhibition of our self – they show our true lives.”

The philosophy behind the collection was also channeled in the showroom itself. Designed by contemporary

Those who are genuine will be able to reach the souls of others.

珂X子涵(XiaoKe x ZiHan)共同创作,主题确定为“城市共生“,将秀场实验性地变成了一出“时光剧场”。“过去、现在、未来在时间的维度互相交叠存在,它与时间有关,与情感有关。”正如“Re-clothing”可循环设计的理念,一件衣服的生命没有终点,只是在它不同阶段以不同的面貌一一呈现,而在这个过程中所承载的那些故事与情绪,便丰富了它作为织物之外真实的质感。此外,这次秀所启用的模特身份也各不相同。设计师邀请了生活在上海的普通人与家庭,以及艺术家与模特,来了一次在不同时空中的情感交汇,以剧场的情景感来贴近和还原生活真实的脉络。在叙事上打破线性的时间关系,用不同时代不同故事背景的人来串联起观众的情感体验——那些时光罅隙里温暖的,有关于“珍惜”与“尊重”的故事碎片与标本。“因为我们都是在他人故事里打开了想象的空间,最终走进的,是属于自己的记忆。”不管是系列设计本身,还是秀场布置,抑或秀台上的 模特们,这些元素罗列起来排成一条逻辑链,我们其实可以猜到整组作品的背后必然有着设计师个人的、意识形态上的原型。“‘天真’是一种天然的真挚,淳朴自然,不经修饰;而‘别致’则表达了其对设计的美学态度,尊重它本身的自然脉络,赋予它一种浑然天成的姿态。‘别致的天真’无法被刻意规划,但却是倾听它有机的脉络,按图索骥的结果。”在这场秀里,设计师这样认为,“我们试图寻找每一件衣服自己的秩序,让它成为讲述自己故事的人。我们在讲述环保和可持续性的时候,其实归根结底讲述的是一种对于自然的尊重和敬畏。一切事物有自己的生命,有自己的节奏。‘设计’这个人为介入的行为如何倾听与遵从它的节奏,顺势而为,让它原本的生命力呼之欲出,这就是真正的一种共生关系。”

如设计师所说的,“别致的天真”所想要表达的,不仅仅是“天真”,而且是“有机的”、“顺其自然的”和“真实的”。 theatre artists XiaoKe and ZiHan, who followed a theme of ‘Urban Co-Existence’, an experimental theatre space was created to explore “the overlapping time dimensions of past, present and future”, and a place “related to time and emotions”. Just as Reclothing interprets, a piece of clothing is eternal – it presents varying forms in different periods of time. It’s the stories and emotions the clothes carry with that determine the quality of their textures.

Furthermore, the fashion show invited models from different walks of life to showcase the collection. A diverse mix of locals from the city, artists and models came together to create a clash of time and space that also captured a sense of theatre. Different narratives and backgrounds offered the audience a sense of warmth and inclusiveness. As the designer says, “we explore the power of imagination through others’ stories, and eventually it’s our own memories that stay in our mind.”

No matter the collection itself or the site settings, or even the models on the runway, the designer places them together into a collage of her own ideas. “‘Innocence’ is a natural quality, while ‘delicate’ is an aesthetic attitude that reflects innocence. In the show, the designer argues that “we are trying to find the order of clothes and let them be the storytellers. Fundamentally we are paying respect to nature when we are talking about sustainability. Every life has its own rhythm, and the role of fashion design is to hear and obey this rhythm and finally realize this in the real world. This is the co-existence I am trying to explore.”

As the designer puts it, “‘Delicate Innocence’ not only expresses innocence, but also organic-ness and authenticity.

凡是真挚的,必然能够彼此触碰到灵魂。

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