SUSTAINABLE FASHION

时尚可持续

Vantage Shanghai - - CONTENTS -

In recent years we’ve witnessed the popularisation of sustainability to an incredible extent, yet experts in the fashion world have been slow to explore how they can play a part. Sometimes it seems the more historic and reputable a brand is, the harder it is to accept the idea. On the contrary, newcomers and younger brands are more in tune to the environmental zeitgeist, and have become the active participators in implementing sustainable design.

ENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY FABRIC

Sustainable development is best exemplified through pragmatism-oriented eco-friendly fabrics. G-Star Raw, a denim brand from the Netherlands, introduced G-Star Elwood RFTPi in the lastest collection. As reported, the fabric of the jeans is ‘Gold Star Cradle to Cradle Certifie’ – a classification that promotes recycling in the fashion industry.

It was shared to the Fashion Positive Materials Library affiliated with Cradle to Cradle, which provides the public with free access to the verified materials, and creates infinite possibilities for its future

application.

TECHNOLOGIES OF FASHION

In terms of technology, these new materials have plenty to boast about. The environment-friendly indigo dyeing technology adopts DyStar pre-processed dye and a new solution to replace the traditional sodium hydrosulphite, thus avoiding chemical pollution. This is a revolutionary process in the fabric dyeing industry, which reduces overall chemical usage by 70%, and indigo dye by 15%.

By employing new technologies and renewable energy, sustainable washing procedures are another avenue through which to reduce waste, recycling up to 98% of the water used and vaporizing the other 2%. The cotton used is 100% organic and naturally sourced, to help maintain both eco-system and human wellbeing. It even forgoes all kinds of rivets and zips, instead using recycled metal buttons.

Last but not least, the collection shows their competitiveness through ingenious design power. In the new season, the brand showcased their developments through a series of iconic jeans that embraced both sustainability and fashion awareness. By leading the charge, labels like G-Star are encouraging fellow fashion moguls to adopt similarly environmentally conscious measures, meaning that consumers won’t need to choose between ethical manufacturing and brand image.

近几年,“可持续发展”这一环保理念在其他行业已经十分深入,但是在时尚这百年来看似潮流多变、内里基本价值观实则根深蒂固的行业里,仍旧是一个有待开发的理念。时装品牌本身的历史越悠久、名誉越高,越难开启这一理念,反而是一些新兴或后来的品牌,不讲究太多意识形态学的,慢慢开始接受并践行这种理念。

环保面料

这里面大多数是以“实穿”为主的品牌,这种时装价值观似乎和“可持续发展”融合得最好。来自荷兰的G-STAR RAW在今年的春夏新品中就发布了“新生态牛仔G-Star Elwood RFTPi”。据报道,这款牛仔的面料已通过严苛的认证程序,被Cradle to Cradle产品创新研究所授予Cradle to Cradle Certified™金星级认证,推动了整个时尚产业的循环发展。G-Star与DyStar和 Artistic Milliners在开发这种面料上的合作,也是面料创新与合作的绝佳典范。这种面料被共享给

Cradle to Cradle 产品创新研究所

的Fashion Positive Materials图书馆,这让其他人也可使用这 种认证面料,为将来该面料的推广和应用创造了无限可能。

时尚工艺

从具体工艺来看,这款新型面料有这些特色。清洁靛蓝染色技术,通过使用DyStar预处理的靛蓝以及新发明的有机液体,取代传统工艺中使用的保险粉,后者通常被用来让靛蓝染料附着于织物,从而避免了靛青染色工艺中的一大环境危害。这是靛蓝染色工艺工业化进程中的一项重大变革,将化学品成分降低70%,靛蓝染料减少15%,并且在染色和还原阶段不使用任何盐和盐副产物。可持续发展理念的水洗工艺。通过使用环保科技和可再生能源,98%的用水将被回收和重复利用,剩余的2%自然挥发。没有水被排放到当地环境中;采用100%有机棉。坚持使用种植过程中没有施加人工化肥和有毒农药的棉花,维护和改善了土壤、生态系统和人类社会的健康。同时,在这个概念中,所有铆钉和拉链都被摒弃,转而使用环保的金属纽扣。此外,所有的标签和纸箱包装也都是绿色采购。除此之外,这一季的创作,在廓形的设计上也用足了心思。系列还包含了季节性的牛仔裤装和一些牛仔单品系列。可以看出,这个系列在面料中注重“可持续发展”的同时,也花了很多心思在系列设计的潮流度上面。那么,这是否意味着“可持续发展”理念在未来延伸到传统的以时装文化、时装历史为至高点的一些品牌系列时,会遇到很大的阻力?或者换一种说法,在后者的市场中,顾客们在关注“可持续发展”理念和时装品牌对于标记自我社会地位、身份的功能之间,孰轻孰重?这是一个等待时间来回答的问题。

如今,新的价值观融入很多行业,时尚业也是如此, 潮流之外,更要可持续发展。 Sustainability has penetrated industries, and numerous fashion is no exception.作者Author/编辑Editor:王烨昇Johnny Wang

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