THE DISH: STRANDED IN PAR­ADISE

永利皇宮的麵條種類選擇豐富得令人難以取捨,所謂豐富,除了在美食上的意義,還有用麵粉、水的考究以及嫻熟技藝和非凡賣相,創作出一部精彩紛呈的亞洲遊記。

Wynn Magazine - - CONTENTS - By Kate Springer

The vast se­lec­tion of noo­dles at Wynn Palace in Co­tai de­scribes not only their culi­nary va­ri­ety, but is in many ways an epic trav­el­ogue around Asia, ex­pressed in flour, wa­ter, skill and in­cred­i­ble show­man­ship.

The vast se­lec­tion of noo­dles at Wynn Palace in Co­tai de­scribes not only their culi­nary va­ri­ety, but is in many ways an epic trav­el­ogue around Asia, ex­pressed in flour, wa­ter, skill and in­cred­i­ble show­man­ship.

要想足不出戶就可以早餐來一碗山西刀削面,午餐品嚐日本拉麵,晚餐則以廣東餛飩面結束,這樣的美妙滋味不是隨時都能遇到。隨著永利皇宮出品的麵食品種不斷增加,客人可以隨心逛著吃遍南北,從中國西北部的山西省(據說是麵條的發源地)直到廣東南部,再跳到日本。最近99麵餐廳新推出的菜單就是很好的例子,食客們會發現菜單上增加了大量的麵條種類。北方麵食有山西風味刀削麵、蕎麥麵、北京拉麵和柳葉面等等。99麵的第一家店開在永利澳門,主廚劉傑解釋說:「餐廳名字叫99麵,是因為我們以手工製作9種麵條, 9種高湯和9種配菜。中國的麵食當然遠遠不止這 IT’S NOT EV­ERY DAY THAT YOU GET TO SLURP SHANXI KNIFE-CUT NOO­DLES FOR BREAK­FAST, Ja­panese ra­men for lunch and Can­tonese won­ton noo­dle soup for din­ner with­out step­ping out­side. But with an ever- ex­pand­ing as­sort­ment of noo­dles on of­fer at Wynn Palace in Ma­cau, guests can travel the re­gion as they please, skip­ping from China’s north­west­ern Shanxi prov­ince (said to be the birth­place of noo­dles) down to south­ern Guang­dong, and over to Ja­pan. On the re­cently re­vamped menu at 99 Noo­dles, for ex­am­ple, din­ers will find a stag­ger­ing noo­dle se­lec­tion. The north­ern Chi­nese of­fer­ings cover ev­ery­thing from Shaanxi-style knife-shaved noo­dles to buck­wheat tip-ended noo­dles, Bei­jing la mian and leaf noo­dles, among oth­ers. “It’s called 99 Noo­dles be­cause we craft nine types of noo­dles, nine broths and nine gar­nishes,” ex­plains Chef de Cui­sine Liu Jie at 99 Noo­dles at the orig­i­nal lo­ca­tion in­side Wynn Ma­cau. “In China, of course, there are many more than just these nine types. They are a com­mon sta­ple in most di­ets, and an im­por­tant part of our food cul­ture.”

些種類。它們是大多數菜系中常見的主食,也是我們飲食文化的重要組成部分。」為了幫助客人在品種繁多的高湯和配菜裡做出選擇,菜單上推薦了幾個招牌菜式。其中最受歡迎的是一款山西麵條,依照傳統在麵條上堆滿大量的辣豬肉碎或羊肉碎。「我們用特製的刀(形狀像魚鰭)削麵條。」主廚解釋說,示範一手拿著麵團一手向下削的動作:「面片落入沸水中,變成稍粗的麵條,長度不一,口感非常有彈性。」為了滿足大家對山西麵條的偏愛,永利皇宮99麵的廚師長陳明以自己的童年回憶為靈感,為菜單註入懷舊氣息。「北方人喜歡吃炸醬麵(豆醬、炒豬肉配粗麵)。我覺得小時候媽媽做的炸醬麵是最美味的。」大廚回憶說:「每次看見媽媽或者大廚們在烹飪時臉上那種專註的神色,我都會覺得很好奇。那時我就決定,長大後要成為廚師。」酒店裡正在轉變的美食,不止99麵的菜單。受食客熱捧的南方風味中餐廳紅8粥麵將在今年三月遷往面積更大的地方,距離99麵僅幾步之遙。餐廳的紅黑主色調保持不變,空間擴大近兩倍。餐廳中央設有開放式 To help din­ers nav­i­gate the lengthy list of broths and gar­nishes, the menu de­notes a few sig­na­tures. The most pop­u­lar is a bowl of Shaanxi noo­dles—tra­di­tion­ally topped with a moun­tain of spicy minced pork or lamb. “To make these noo­dles, we use a spe­cial knife shaped like a fin,” ex­plains the chef, as he pre­tends to hold a ball of dough while slic­ing down­wards. “The pieces fall into a pot of boil­ing wa­ter. This pro­duces thicker noo­dles of vary­ing lengths, which share a won­der­ful chewy tex­ture.” To ac­com­pany crowd fa­vorites like Shaanxi noo­dles, Chef de Cui­sine Chen Ming, who helms the Wynn Palace lo­ca­tion, has in­jected a few nos­tal­gic ad­di­tions in­spired by his child­hood. “Peo­ple in north­ern China love their zha­jiang noo­dles [thick noo­dles with soy­bean paste and stir-fried pork]. When I was young, the zha­jiang noo­dles that my mom made were the best,” says Chen. “Each time that I caught the at­ten­tive­ness on my mother’s or the chefs’ faces while they were cook­ing, I would be­come so cu­ri­ous. It was then that I de­cided to be­come a chef when I grew up.” An ex­pand­ing menu at 99 Noo­dles isn’t the only thing that’s chang­ing at the re­sort. Pop­u­lar south­ern-style Chi­nese restau­rant Red 8 moved to a larger lo­ca­tion this March, just steps from 99 Noo­dles. The red-and-black color pal­ette re­mains un­changed, but the space is nearly twice as large. At the heart

廚房,賓客可以看見廚師們如何從烤箱取出北京烤鴨,手工製作點心蝦餃或是現場手拉廣式麵條。「比較南方和北方的麵條時,要先了解它們的原材料和製作過程各不相同。南方麵條通常使用米粉,北方麵條則使用小麥麵粉製作。這兩種方式都相當花時間。」主廚劉傑說:「不同的製作過程(比如用冷水浸泡或是不同的發酵方法)都會改變麵條的質地和口感。這正是每種麵食各有不同特色的原因。」以南方麵條為例,紅8粥麵的廚師長梁偉民每天大概要製作155磅的麵條,麵條用澳洲麵粉製作,加入新鮮湖北鴨蛋以增加味道中的蛋香。下鍋之前,麵團要先在冷水中浸過,讓麵條的質地更有彈性,而且在蒜香四溢熱騰騰的高湯(用4小時熬製)裡長時間浸泡也不會軟爛,配上飽滿的手工鮮蝦雲吞,風味一流。當然了,這家瑰麗豐盛的酒店裡怎會只有中式麵食可選。美食家們一定會迷上花悅餐廳的日式手工拉麵,在僅設19個座位的大理石餐檯旁坐下來,盡情品嚐美味豐盛的拉麵。「麵條在中國人和亞洲許多地方的人們心中都代表著溫暖安心的味道,」主廚劉傑說,「這是你一生中離不開的食物,是一種必需品。 如果連續幾個星期都沒有吃麵條,你就會不停地想起它的味道,恨不得立刻吃一碗。」幸運的是,在永利皇宮裡,什麼時候想吃麵條都輕而易舉,近在咫尺。 of the restau­rant, there’s an open kitchen where din­ers can watch the chefs at work as they pull a Pek­ing duck out of the oven, craft dim sum dumplings or hand-pull Can­tonese-style noo­dles. “When com­par­ing south­ern and north­ern noo­dles, you have to un­der­stand that the in­gre­di­ents and pro­cesses vary. South­ern noo­dles of­ten use rice flour, while north­ern noo­dles use wheat flour. Both are time-con­sum­ing in their own way,” says Liu. “The dif­fer­ent prepa­ra­tion process [such as soak­ing them in cold wa­ter or fer­men­ta­tion meth­ods] will change the noo­dles’ struc­ture and tex­ture. That’s why each noo­dle has its own char­ac­ter.” In the case of south­ern-style noo­dles, Chef Le­ung Wai Mun Le­ung at Red 8 makes about 155 pounds of noo­dles a day, us­ing Aus­tralian flour and fresh Hubei duck eggs to en­hance the eggy fla­vor. Be­fore cook­ing, the dough un­der­goes a bath in cold wa­ter. This step re­sults in a springy tex­ture that re­mains firm while they swim in a bowl of warm­ing, gar­licky broth (which takes four hours to pre­pare) along­side bob­bing shrimp won­tons that ap­pear to be hand-wrapped like lit­tle gifts. Of course, Chi­nese noo­dles aren’t the only types avail­able un­der this pala­tial roof. Gour­mands will grav­i­tate to the hand­made noo­dles at Hanami Ra­men, where they can de­vour hearty bowls of ra­men around an in­ti­mate mar­ble-clad counter with just 19 seats. “Noo­dles are a com­fort food for peo­ple in China, and many places in Asia,” says Liu. “It’s some­thing you have to have in your life. It’s a must. If you don’t eat noo­dles for a few weeks, you think about it con­stantly and crave them.” Luck­ily, at Wynn Palace, any­one crav­ing noo­dles won’t have to ven­ture too far.

永利皇宮99麵的主廚Chen Ming演示拉麵技巧。 Chef de Cui­sine Chen Ming hand-pulls noo­dles at 99 Noo­dles at Wynn Palace.

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