早午餐風味大賞

Wynn Magazine - - CONTENTS - By An­drea Ben­nett

在永利度假就應該縱情享受各式美味,這裡有兩款常年大熱的早午餐,今年還全新增加一款,隨你心意投入美味時光吧。

在永利度假就應該縱情享受各式美味,這裡有兩款常年大熱的早午餐,今年還全新增加一款,隨你心意投入美味時光吧。 In­dul­gence is the name of Wynn’s hol­i­day game, and at two time-hon­ored brunches and one new brunch, just how you in­dulge is up to you.

早午餐這件事,在拉斯維加斯不僅是一種飲食方式,更像是一個美食文化潮流。大家去吃一份早午餐,投入程度猶如參加一場激烈的體育賽事。在這個永遠以最高質素為標準的城市裡,早午餐一定要美味,用心創意編排,還要令人印象深刻,為客人帶來驚喜。近年早午餐的質素持續不斷提升,好像已經沒有什麼新鮮內容可以加入了—這樣想你就錯了。來看這隻裝滿凍海鮮的 英尺獨木舟,或者提早 個月已經開始預訂的節日點心早午餐,還有和晚餐無縫連接的早午餐(算好時機就能做到)。

爵士早午餐,湖畔餐廳

Lake­side (湖畔餐廳)行政總廚David Wal­zog在介紹餐廳的爵士早午餐之前問我:「你是喜歡吃早午餐的人嗎?」這款爵士早午餐從勞動節週末開始供應,從原本的The Coun­try Club (鄉村俱樂部)轉到這裡之後,還加入了夏威夷風格。大廚的問題非常到位,因為他作為一個宣稱不吃早午餐的人,卻對早午餐這種形式研究得非常透徹,以求在Lake­side (湖畔餐廳)為大家帶來不一樣的新鮮感。他說:「我們不會做那種介乎簡餐和早午餐的模棱兩可方式,我們要確保令客人感到極其舒適親切和周到。」客人一坐下就會有熱帶果盤和各色早餐麵包送上。總廚介紹說:「我們有熱騰騰的迷你牛角包,貝果包和葡式炸甜包,還有美味的夏威夷甜甜圈,裡面填滿了POG (熱情果、橙和番石榴)奶油。就像吃自助餐一樣,但不用站起來自己拿。」但是如果你不站起來走動一下,就會錯過了這裡早午餐的精華所在:一隻名為「S.S.湖畔」的14英尺長獨木舟,裡面堆滿了阿拉斯加皇帝蟹腳、大蝦、生蠔和大眼吞拿魚沙律。在The Coun­try Club (鄉村俱樂部)演出多年的David “Mojo” Poe爵士樂團為餐廳帶來美妙樂韻, Wal­zog說:「我從廚房出來看見大家一邊從木船裡夾大蝦一邊跟著音樂跳舞,感覺好玩又開心。」客人可以從菜單上的10款主菜中挑選,如煙熏劍魚沙律、蟹餅班尼迪蛋配味噌荷蘭醬、檸檬Ri­cot­ta芝士班戟配新鮮藍莓,還有其他眾多菜式例如煙熏牛扒配薯條、招牌芝士漢堡等等。既然是拉斯維加斯風格,當然有無限量的含羞草雞尾酒和Bellini雞尾酒供應,還有Veuve Clic­quot香檳以及一系列精美熱帶風味雞尾酒。Wal­zog總廚還為這一系列早午餐美食加入新鮮層次,如小杯巴西莓健康果汁、迷你bia­ly洋蔥麵包卷配煙熏三文魚及奶油芝士、盤裝Rock­e­feller芝士菠菜生蠔等等,全部都是一口大小可以傳著分食的小菜。Wal­zog說:「我們餐廳位置絕佳,位於美麗的夢幻湖上,天氣好的時候窗戶會全部打開。其實早午餐的最大價值所在,就是慢慢地讓你享受生活。」

點心早午餐,永利軒

從平安夜開始直到元旦,以及農曆新年期間,永利軒行政總廚Ming Yu和點心師Sandy Shi聯手推出全城最受歡迎的美食盛事之一:精彩又獨特的點心早午餐。Shi師傅帶領手下7位點心師每日製作3000件手工點心,包括豬肉蠔豉燒賣,蝦餃和小籠包等等。永利軒環境華麗,以精美玉石搭配金、白色手繪雕刻牆飾,如同一個精緻的中式珠寶盒,它是全國第一間摘下米芝蓮 BRUNCH IN LAS VE­GAS IS LESS A MEAL THAN IT IS A CUL­TURAL PHE­NOM­E­NON. WE DON’T JUST GO TO BRUNCH HERE, WE COM­MIT TO IT MUCH AS YOU WOULD WITH A COM­PET­I­TIVE SPORT­ING EVENT. And in a city ac­cus­tomed to the high­est in pro­duc­tion val­ues, it had bet­ter be spec­tac­u­lar, beau­ti­fully or­ches­trated and sur­pris­ing in ad­di­tion to be­ing de­li­cious. The bar hav­ing been raised over and over in re­cent years, it would seem that there is lit­tle left to add—and that is where you would be mis­taken. En­ter a 14-foot boat filled with chilled seafood, hol­i­day dim sum for which reser­va­tions be­gin fill­ing six months prior, and a brunch that rolls right into din­ner (if you time it right).

Jazz Brunch, Lake­side

“Are you a bruncher or a non-bruncher?” Lake­side Ex­ec­u­tive Chef David Wal­zog asks be­fore he starts de­scrib­ing Lake­side’s Jazz Brunch, which opened on La­bor Day week­end, re­lo­cat­ing from The Countr y Club and tak­ing on a Hawai­ian in­flec­tion for its new lo­ca­tion. It’s an apt ques­tion, since, as an avowed non-bruncher, he re­searched brunch thor­oughly in or­der to of­fer some­thing com­pletely dif­fer­ent at Lake­side. “It’s not one of those club-slash-brunch ex­pe­ri­ences,” he says. “We de­vel­oped this con­cept to make sure our guests feel com­pletely cod­dled and taken care of.” A trop­i­cal fruit plate and beau­ti­ful break­fast breads are de­liv­ered the mo­ment guests are seated. “We have hot mini­crois­sants, bagels and malasadas, the de­li­cious Hawai­ian dough­nuts piped with POG [pas­sion fruit, or­ange and guava] pastr y cream,” he says. “It’s like a buf­fet, but you don’t have to stand up. ” Of course, if you don’t, you’ll miss the brunch’s cen­ter­piece, the “S.S. Lake­side,” a 14-foot ca­noe piled high with Alaskan king crab legs, jumbo shrimp, oys­ters and big-eye tuna poke. The David “Mojo” Poe jazz en­sem­ble, brought back from its years at The Coun­try Club, an­chors the room, and, Wal­zog says, “I come out and see peo­ple danc­ing as they’re get­ting their shrimp off the boat. It’s re­ally play­ful and fun.” Guests round out their ex­pe­ri­ence by or­der­ing from 10 en­trees on the menu, such as a black­ened sword­fish salad, crab cake Bene­dict with miso hol­landaise and lemon ri­cotta pan­cakes with fresh blue­ber­ries, as well as sub­stan­tial dishes like a charred flat-iron steak frites and Lake­side’s sig­na­ture cheese­burger. This be­ing Las Ve­gas, there are un­lim­ited mi­mosas and Belli­nis, as well as Veuve Clic­quot on of­fer, as well as a ded­i­cated brunch cock­tail menu of trop­i­cal-in­flected re­fresh­ers. Wal­zog adds a layer to this syn­chro­nized pro­duc­tion with passed trays of bite-size ad­di­tions through­out brunch, which might in­clude lit­tle acai boost­ers, two-bite bialys with smoked salmon and cream cheese and in­di­vid­u­ally plated oys­ters Rock­e­feller. Wal­zog says, “We’re in the most beau­ti­ful lo­ca­tion, right on the Lake of Dreams, and the win­dows are open in good weather. The big­gest key to brunch is that it should bring you slowly to life.”

Dim Sum Brunch, Wing Lei

Be­tween Christ­mas Eve and New Year’s Day, and then for a lim­ited pe­riod of time for Chi­nese New Year, Wing Lei Ex­ec­u­tive Chef Ming Yu and dim sum chef Sandy Shi un­veil one of the city’s most an­tic­i­pated

假日早午餐,永利自助餐

星級、唯一在美國獲得「福布斯旅遊指南」五星大獎的中餐廳。餐廳的出品也是非常珍罕,比如用產自台灣的原隻鮑魚製作的鮑魚撻,還有Ming總廚最愛的叉燒餐包。總廚從10月份開始設計菜單和試菜,除了廣東、上海和四川風味,還有眾多西式精彩之作,比如安格斯帶骨肉眼扒(總廚在即切肉類中的最愛)。壽司吧由來自「泓」日本料理的壽司師傅每日現場製作手捲,還有冰鮮大蝦、生蠔、龍蝦、皇帝蟹腳等供應。Ming總廚介紹說:「我們首次供應節日點心早午餐時,是希望為來自遠東和中國的客人提供更多的午餐選擇。後來竟然變得廣受歡迎!」點心早午餐的名氣越來越大,每年都會按農曆年的生肖變換主題,麵點檔也會不斷變幻花款推出新意,客人預約也越來越火爆, Ming總廚說:「有客人會提前六個月打電話預約早午餐。」 永利自助餐的統計數據相當驚人:每日為近3,500名客人提供美食;每年供應超過186,265磅的阿拉斯加雪蟹腳、69,000磅蝦、100萬件壽司和超過500,000隻手工鍋貼和餃子。行政總廚Jonathan Bau­man表示,年復一年,這個每日消耗5000隻雞蛋的自助餐廚房不會考慮宣傳這些龐大產量,而是專注於持續提升品質及創意。他和其廚師團隊在8月底已經開始計劃聖誕假期菜單。像聖誕最受歡迎的即點即制南瓜香料班戟和檸檬梳芙厘班戟配牛油已經加入菜單。餐廳設有共14個食物區,由100位廚師和點心師主理。每年永利蛋糕大師Flora Aghababyan都會製作大型薑餅屋,放在光線明亮、滿佈鮮花的餐廳中庭, Bau­man總廚說,想要進一步錦上添花真是費煞思量:「希望推出節日菜式能為客人帶來更多驚喜,比如聖誕熱門菜式松露薯泥、龍蝦班尼迪蛋以及各種冷、熱食海鮮。」即切肉檔從感恩節開始直到聖誕新年假期都會大受歡迎,全日供應慢烤肋排、節日火腿、黑椒脆皮豬肉,還有蜂蜜淮山配煙肉果醬等蘸料。每位來到拉斯維加斯的客人都會有自己喜歡的用餐節奏, Bau­man總廚透露了他自己最愛的自助餐心得秘訣:「下午三點半左右是從早午餐變成晚餐的轉換時間,在這段時間用餐的客人非常有口福,能品嚐到兩種風格的美食。」如果您喜歡大快朵頤,就不要錯過餐廳中央的糕點區域,這裡提供各種出爐糕點、巧克力噴泉蘸特色糕點和糖果。還有一點小提示供您參考:每年有101,455個糖漬蘋果在這裡恭候您的快樂聖誕假期。 culi­nary events: the spec­tac­u­lar Dim Sum Brunch. Chef Shi and her staff of seven dim sum chefs turn out 3,000 pieces of hand­crafted dim sum each day, from pork and dried oys­ter siu mai (pork dumplings) to har gow (shrimp dumplings) and xiao long bao (Shang­hai pork dumplings). Meant to evoke a lit­eral Chi­nese jewel box, with its or­nate jade, gold and white hand­painted and carved sur­faces, Wing Lei is the first Chi­nese restau­rant in the coun­try to have been awarded a Miche­lin star, and the only Forbes Travel Guide Five-star Award-win­ning Chi­nese restau­rant in Amer­ica. As such, ex­pect rare treats such as abalone tarts fash­ioned around whole abalone from Tai­wan and a long­time Chef Ming fa­vorite, a ba­sic-crusted bar­be­cue pork bun. In Oc­to­ber, Ming be­gins the plan­ning and tast­ing for the menu, which in­cludes not only the fla­vors of Can­tonese, Shang­hainese and Szechuan cui­sine, but also a few Western show­stop­pers like a tom­a­hawk An­gus (his own fa­vorite from the car ving sta­tion). A sushi chef from Mizumi comes in each day to hand roll spe­cial­ties in the sushi sta­tion, and jumbo prawns, oys­ters, lob­ster and king crab legs sit atop piles of ice. “When we first of­fered the hol­i­day dim sum brunch,” Ming says, “we wanted to of­fer our Far East and Chi­nese guests an­other lunch op­tion. But then it grew and be­came fa­mous!” And with fame has come a for­mat that changes each year with the Chi­nese zo­diac, ad­di­tional del­i­ca­cies such as an ever-evolv­ing pastr y sta­tion, and a wait­ing list. “Now we have guests who call to reser ve six months in ad­vance for the brunch,” Ming says.

Hol­i­day Brunch, The Buf­fet at Wynn

Con­sider num­bers from The Buf­fet at Wynn, which feeds nearly 3,500 guests per day: Each year, it serves more than 186,265 pounds of Alaskan Opilio crab legs, 69,000 pounds of shrimp, 1 mil­lion pieces of sushi and more than 500,000 hand­crafted pot stick­ers and dumplings. But this kitchen, which cracks 5,000 eggs each day, is less con­cerned with ad­ver­tis­ing its vol­ume than top­ping its own cre­ativ­ity year over year, says Ex­ec­u­tive Chef Jonathan Bau­man. He and his team had al­ready started plan­ning for the hol­i­days in late Au­gust. Sea­sonal fa­vorites like made-to-or­der pump­kin spice pan­cakes and lemon souf­flé pan­cakes with whipped but­ter join 14 other sta­tions manned by 100 cooks, chefs and pas­try chefs. In a light-filled, flower-be­decked atrium that gets its own mas­sive gin­ger­bread house each year made by Wynn master cake artist Flora Aghababyan, it’s dif­fi­cult to gild the lily, Bau­man says. “But we hope that the dishes do that for us. Some of the hol­i­day fa­vorites are truf­fle mashed pota­toes, lob­ster eggs Bene­dict and both hot and chilled seafood.” The carv­ing sta­tion goes into over­drive from Thanks­giv­ing all the way through the hol­i­days, with of­fer­ings like slow-roasted prime rib all day, hol­i­day hams, pep­per-crusted pork belly and sides like honey-glazed yams with ba­con jam. And where ever y Las Ve­gan worth his salt has a buf­fet strat­egy, Bau­man will give away his own fa­vorite se­cret: “Guests who are lucky enough to be din­ing with us dur­ing the changeover from brunch to din­ner, around 3:30 pm, get to ex­pe­ri­ence both meals.” If go­ing for vol­ume is in­deed your strat­egy, you will want to pace your­self to take fi­nal ad­van­tage of the cen­tral patis­serie, with its warm pas­tries, choco­late foun­tain-dipped spe­cial­ties and con­fec­tions. As a point of ref­er­ence, 101,455 candy ap­ples served each year say happy hol­i­days, in­deed.

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