細嚐文藝復興滋味

Wynn Magazine - - CONTENTS - By Drew Lim­sky

Cipri­an­i餐廳的元祖總店位於意大利,又在千里之外的拉斯維加斯開了分店,將源自威尼斯的特色佳餚和Giuseppe Cipri­an­i自創的菜式帶到Wynn Plaza(永利廣場),本色精彩呈現。

Cipri­an­i餐廳的元祖總店位於意大利,又在千里之外的拉斯維加斯開了分店,將源自威尼斯的特色佳餚和Giuseppe Cipri­an­i自創的菜式帶到Wynn Plaza(永利廣場),本色精彩呈現。 A world away from its an­ces­tral home in Italy, Cipri­ani opens in Las Ve­gas, bring­ing its her­itage of dishes spe­cific to Venice—and some in­vented by Giuseppe Cipri­ani him­self—to Wynn Plaza.

Cipri­an­i最新分店在Wynn Plaza(永利廣場)開張,一眾美食家和時尚人士聞風而動,歡喜迎接這間家族式國際級美味殿堂的到來。深諳意國美食和烹飪之道的人都知道,僅是「正宗意大利菜」的描述還不夠貼切,還要指明是哪個地區。譬如經由薩萊諾前往阿馬爾菲海岸時,如果在登上前往阿馬爾菲或波西塔諾的渡輪之前想在港口附近酒吧裡消磨一下時間,就會見到一種特別的糕點,這種糕點離開阿馬爾菲海岸10英里範圍以外就沒有了。向當地人打聽的話,通常會聽到如下回答:「這就是薩萊諾出產的糕點,只能在這裡吃到。」同樣的事情也可能發生在卡普里島或帕爾馬地區,甚至是威尼斯。1931年,威尼斯有一位名叫Giuseppe Cipri­an­i的調酒師,在聖馬可廣場旁邊運河上的一座石頭建築裡創建了Harry’s酒吧。這裡成為歐內斯特·海明威(與餐廳關係最密切的大文豪)最愛流連的地方,還有美國天才導演奧遜·威爾斯(喜歡一坐下就點兩瓶Dom Pérignon香檳)以及精神領袖阿迦汗四世(喜歡魚子醬和意大利餃)。隨後多年,眾多新一代的名流明星成為座上客,比如大導演亞弗列·希治閣、美國作家楚門·卡波提、影星佐治古尼、妮歌潔曼等人。雖然Cipri­an­i已經由最初的總店發展成一個國際品牌,分店遍布蒙特卡羅、伊比札、紐約、墨西哥城、阿布達比、杜拜等地,卻仍然堅守特色地方菜的根源,以及由Giuseppe自創並發揚光大的各種菜式。Cipri­an­i第四代傳人Mag­gio Cipri­an­i介紹說,名人最愛的威尼斯菜式包括有威尼斯風格小牛肝、bac­calà man­te­cato(奶油鹽醃鱈魚配粟米糊)以及sarde in saor (酸甜沙丁魚)。他介紹的這些菜式,在美食和文化領域都意義非凡。在Mag­gio 看來,永利和Cipri­an­i是極其契合的合作夥伴。他表示:「我由衷認為永利度假村是行業的標杆,非常注重細節、質量和服務。我們有共同的價值觀,受到來自同樣客戶群體的讚賞。」Mag­gio回憶說,他一到訪永利就立即被深深吸引:「餐廳位於全新開業的Wynn Plaza(永利廣場)的商店區域,鄰近眾多著名品牌店鋪,位置絕佳,我們非常滿意。我們一直在構思推出拉斯維加斯特色計劃,這裡看來非常合適。」他所說的鄰近店鋪品牌確實極為著名,包括有Louis Vuit­ton、Saint Lau­rent、Bot­tega Veneta、Ste­fano Ric­ci等等。Cipri­an­i如今也加入了Wynn Plaza(永利廣場)的著名品牌行列,弧形設計的餐廳佔地7000平方英尺,大廳面積約3,000平方英尺,私人區域可容納50人用餐。來自全球的Cipri­an­i擁躉可在這裡欣賞到出自Michele Bo­nan手筆的精心設計,這位著名的佛羅倫斯建築師以設計遊艇、大型莊園、酒店和其他幾處Cipri­an­i餐廳出名,大受環球名流歡迎。Mag­gio介紹說:「Bo­nan幫我們設計過很多間分店餐廳,包括Cipri­ani Down­town Mi­ami、Down­town Ibiza­和墨西哥城的Cipri­ani Masaryk等等。有些設計元素會一致相通,比如店內空間的航海感覺、光澤感的胡桃木、鉻合金和水磨石地板。但每間餐廳都會有自己的特色元素,比如不同的主色調、獨特的燈光佈置。」這裡以皇室藍和焦橙色為主調,與胡桃木圍裹柱子和牆壁的濃郁art de­co風格形成對比平衡。 WHEN THE NEW­EST OUT­POST OF CIPRI­ANI OPENED IN WYNN PLAZA, gour­mands and the fash­ion set knew that a legacy that is at once fa­mil­ial and in­ter­na­tional had touched down. Those who un­der­stand Ital­ian cui­sine and peo­ple who cook it know that it’s not enough to re­fer to “authen­tic Ital­ian” cui­sine; you must speak re­gion­ally. For ex­am­ple, if you make your way to the Amalfi Coast via Salerno and have time to kill be­fore the ferry to Amalfi or Posi­tano, you might find your­self in a bar near the port and no­tice an un­usual pas­try—a pas­try not seen on the Amalfi Coast just 10 miles away. If you ask about it, you’re likely to re­ceive the fol­low­ing re­sponse: “This is a Salerno pas­try. You can only get it here.” This might also hap­pen in Capri or in Parma—or in Venice. It was in Venice in 1931 that a bar­tender named Giuseppe Cipri­ani de­buted Harry’s Bar in a stone build­ing on a canal just off Pi­azza San Marco. The restau­rant was a fa­vorite haunt of Ernest Hem­ing­way (the lit­er­ary le­gend most strongly as­so­ci­ated with the venue), Or­son Welles (known for en­joy­ing two bot­tles of Dom Pérignon at one sit­ting) and the spir­i­tual leader Aga Khan (he loved the caviar and ravi­oli). Lu­mi­nar­ies of suc­ces­sive gen­er­a­tions fol­lowed their lead, from Al­fred Hitch­cock and Tru­man Capote to Ge­orge Clooney and Ni­cole Kid­man. And although the orig­i­nal Cipri­ani land­mark has now be­come a global brand, with res­tau­rants from Monte Carlo to Ibiza, New York, Mex­ico City, Abu Dhabi and Dubai (among oth­ers), Cipri­ani stays true both to its very spe­cific re­gional roots and to the dishes in­vented and made fa­mous by Giuseppe him­self. When fourth-gen­er­a­tion Cipri­ani heir Mag­gio Cipri­ani speaks of the cui­sine that this celebrity set en­joyed— Vene­tian dishes like calf’s liver alla veneziana, bac­calà man­te­cato (whipped salted cod with po­lenta points) and sarde in saor (sweet and sour sar­dines)— he’s say­ing some­thing gas­tro­nom­i­cally and cul­tur­ally mean­ing­ful. To Mag­gio, Wynn and Cipri­ani are nat­u­ral part­ners. “I truly be­lieve that the Wynn re­sorts are the bench­mark in our in­dus­try,” he says. “They dis­tin­guish them­selves for great at­ten­tion to de­tail, qual­ity and ser­vice— val­ues that we share and are ap­pre­ci­ated by the same clien­tele.” Mag­gio re­calls that he was im­me­di­ately taken with the lo­cale. “Wynn ap­proached us with this won­der­ful lo­ca­tion in this ex­cit­ing new plaza re­tail sec­tion near some pres­ti­gious brands. We had been think­ing about a Ve­gas project for some time, and this seemed to be a per­fect match.” The brands of which he speaks are in­deed renowned: Louis Vuit­ton, Saint Lau­rent, Bot­tega Veneta, Ste­fano Ricci. Cipri­ani at Wynn Plaza has now joined them, sprawl­ing over a curved, 7,000-square-foot space: The main din­ing room is roughly 3,000 square feet, while a pri­vate din­ing area seats 50. Global Cipri­ani afi­ciona­dos will ob­serve the care­ful de­sign touch of Michele Bo­nan, the famed Floren­tine ar­chi­tect known for his work on yachts, grand es­tates, ho­tels and sev­eral other Cipri­ani venues that are wildly pop­u­lar with jet-set­ters. “Bo­nan helped us de­sign Cipri­ani Down­town Mi­ami, Down­town Ibiza and Cipri­ani Masaryk [Mex­ico City], to name a few,” Mag­gio says. “Some el­e­ments, like the nau­ti­cal feel of the space with its glossy wal­nut and chrome or the ter­razzo floor­ing, are con­sis­tent with the other lo­ca­tions, but each restau­rant has its own unique char­ac­ter, dif­fer­ent color ac­cents and unique light­ing fix­tures.” Against the rich­ness of that wal­nut—which wraps the columns and the walls with an art deco élan—royal blue and burnt or­ange dom­i­nate.

永利分店的菜單精湛地秉承了餐廳的特色傳統。其他餐廳可能會購買進口­moz­zarel­la芝士,而Cipri­an­i是在意大利自己製作芝士並空運過來。Mag­gio解釋說:「我們會運用傳統的Cipri­an­i美食精髓,搭配威尼斯Harry’s酒吧的經典菜式,例如焗­tagli­olin­i意麵配火腿,還有香草蛋白霜蛋糕。但菜單的Yot­to部分也會提供更多披薩餅選擇和一些日本料理,這些菜式在其他一些分店也有提供。」菜單裡有一道菜式可以說比其他更特別一些, Mag­gio滿懷熱情地介紹:「我的曾祖父Giuseppe在1950年發明了一道菜,在威尼斯的Harry’s酒吧和世界各地的所有Cipri­an­i餐廳裡,都可能是最受歡迎的菜式: carpac­cio生牛肉薄片。」這道菜風味濃郁,賣相誘人又有歷史故事,是熱門必點菜式。Mag­gio解釋說:「這道菜的靈感來自A­malia Nani Mocenigo伯爵夫人,醫生要求她禁食熟肉。所以我的曾祖父為她做了一道菜,在碟子上覆蓋一層切成紙一樣薄的生牛柳肉,將奶油色的清淡醬汁在肉上淋出交叉線條。當時威尼斯一位文藝復興時期畫家Vit­tore Carpac­cio正在舉行一個重要展覽,這位畫家的創作以鮮豔紅色搭配閃亮白色聞名,因此為這道菜帶來了Carpac­cio的名字。」同樣, Giuseppe將他在20世紀40年代獨創的白桃與pros­ec­co白酒調配的雞尾酒命名為Bellini,靈感就是源自他在15世紀威尼斯藝術家Gio­vanni Bellini的一幅畫中看到的獨特色彩。Cipri­ani 的眾多招牌出品,就如同啟發它們的藝術作品一樣,都忠於誕生的創作之地。在6,000英里之外的拉斯維加斯品嚐這些美味,不僅會為您帶來正宗意大利風情體驗,還有更豐富的深層感受。 The menu up­holds the legacy bril­liantly. Other res­tau­rants might im­port their moz­zarella; Cipri­ani pro­duces its own in Italy and flies it in. “We will fea­ture our tra­di­tional Cipri­ani cui­sine, with clas­sics from Harry’s Bar in Venice like the baked tagli­olini with ham and our vanilla meringue cake,” Mag­gio ex­plains, “but we will also in­clude dif­fer­ent pizza se­lec­tions and some Ja­panese cui­sine dishes in our Yotto sec­tion of the menu, which is al­ready fea­tured in some of our other lo­ca­tions around the world.” And one beloved menu item is ar­guably iden­ti­fied with the brand more than any other. “One dish that was in­vented by my great-grand­fa­ther Giuseppe in 1950 and is prob­a­bly the most pop­u­lar, served at Harry’s Bar in Venice and in all the Cipri­a­nis around the world, is the carpac­cio,” Mag­gio en­thuses. Given its rich fla­vor, fan­ci­ful pre­sen­ta­tion and sto­ried his­tory, the carpac­cio is all but re­quired. “The dish was in­spired by the Count­ess Amalia Nani Mocenigo, whose doc­tor had pre­scribed a diet for­bid­ding cooked meat,” he ex­plains. “So he served her a plate cov­ered with pa­per-thin sheets of raw filet mignon with a light, cream-col­ored sauce driz­zled over the meat in a cross­hatch pat­tern. At that time in Venice, a ma­jor ex­hi­bi­tion of the Re­nais­sance pain­ter Vit­tore Carpac­cio—an artist fa­mous for his bright reds and shiny white col­ors—pro­vided the name.” Like­wise, he named the Bellini, the dis­tinc­tive white peach and prosecco cock­tail he in­vented in the 1940s, af­ter the unique color he’d seen in a paint­ing by 15th-cen­tury Vene­tian artist Gio­vanni Bellini. The iconic Cipri­ani of­fer­ings, like the art that in­spired them, are true to the place where they were born. Sam­pling them nearly 6,000 miles away in Las Ve­gas, you’ll be trans­ported to an ex­pe­ri­ence that’s au­then­ti­cally Ital­ian.

著名地標聖馬可廣場是最初的Harry’s酒吧誕生地。 Iconic Pi­azza San Marco in Venice is the home of the orig­i­nal Harry’s Bar.

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