Wynn Magazine

至臻燒烤美味FIRE­D TO PERFECTION

永利皇宮路氹的紅8粥­麵秉承中國古代燒烤傳­統精粹,糅合現代烹飪優勢,帶來令人拍案叫絕的精­彩美食。At Wynn Palace Cotai, Red 8 dives deep into ancient Chinese barbecue tradition and serves it with a side of contempora­ry flair.

- by Kate Springer Photograph­y by David Hartung

烤鴨、燒鵝、乳豬……永利皇宮路氹的紅8粥­麵源源傳出蘋果木燒烤­和煙熏木炭的溫暖香氣,引人聞香而入。餐廳以深紅色為主調,廚師長梁偉民主理的燒­味系列極受客人歡迎,這種粵式燒烤以肉質鮮­嫩而且表皮香酥著稱,梁主廚介紹說:「中國古代烹飪傳統會用­明火燒烤肉類,紅8粥麵的燒味也是這­樣。我們先用自製的傳統醬­汁醃製肉類,待醬汁晾乾後放在烤架­上,以明火燒烤,才是真正經典的燒烤風­味。」這種古法燒烤是當今粵­菜的代表作之一,其實早在北魏時期(公元386-534年間)就已經出現,在古代農業著作《齊民要術》中首次提到了乳豬。根據書中介紹,嶺南大學的蕭欣浩博士­等食物歷史學家指出,燒味之所以在中國南方­的廣東一帶得以發揚光­大,得益於這片地區蓬勃的­飲食文化,而且盛產豬肉、鵝肉和鴨肉等燒味常用­食材。蕭博士曾是法國菜大廚,對香港美食和文化非常­有研究,他解釋說:「隨著廣東飲食文化的蓬­勃發展,廣州有許多餐廳都選擇­在香港開設分店,因此進一步鞏固了當地­的點心和燒味文化。而且,在第二次世界大戰和中­國內戰期間,許多身懷烹飪技術的廣­東人移居香港。自那時起,燒味文化就在這一帶逐­漸發展起來。」燒味在澳門也非常普遍,將粵菜和葡萄牙菜的傳­統融於一身。但是在紅8粥麵的用餐­體驗與街邊燒味店不同,你可以在身心愜意的場­景中品嚐梁主廚的新派­燒味和地道北京烤鴨。在明亮的開放式廚房裡,明火為各式禽類的表皮­添上酥脆質感,梁主廚巧妙地融合新舊­烹飪手法,為菜式增添現代風味,例如他會從葡萄牙採購­頂級的伊比利亞豬肉並­用有機蜂蜜醃製,製成美味的叉燒。梁主廚說:「豬肉運抵餐廳之後,歷經解凍、切片、醃製、晾乾和燒烤等工序,這種豬肉的肉質較瘦,脂肪分佈均勻,口感柔嫩而且肉味濃郁。」

ROASTED DUCK, BARBECUED GOOSE, SUCKLING PIG... THE WARM AROMA OF ROASTING APPLEWOOD CHIPS AND SMOKY CHARCOAL WILL LEAD YOU STRAIGHT TO RED 8 AT WYNN PALACE COTAI. At this crimson-toned address, chef de cuisine Leung Wei Mun serves a sought-after selection of siu mei (meaning “roast-flavored”)—a style of Cantonese barbecue that’s known for its beloved balance of juicy meat and crispy skin. “In keeping with ancient Chinese cooking traditions, where meats are grilled over an open flame, the siu mei at Red 8 is prepared in much the same way,” says chef Leung. “First they are marinated with a traditiona­l homemade sauce, then dried and placed on spits to grill over an open flame for a truly classic flavor.” Now considered a calling card of Cantonese cuisine, this ancient culinary style is actually thought to have emerged during the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 A.D.), when suckling pig was first mentioned in the ancient agricultur­al text Qimin Yaoshu. After its introducti­on, food historians such as Lingnan University’s Dr. Siu Yan Ho say siu mei proliferat­ed in Guangdong, in southern China, thanks to the area’s strong food culture and abundance of common siu mei ingredient­s such as pork, goose and duck. “With the vigorous developmen­t of Guangdong’s food culture, many restaurant­s in Guangzhou have chosen to open their branches in Hong Kong, so this has further settled the culture of dim sum and siu mei in the region,” explains Dr. Siu, a former French chef who specialize­s in Hong Kong food and culture. “Furthermor­e, during the Second World War and the Chinese Civil War, many Cantonese moved to Hong Kong with their cooking skills. Since then, the siu mei culture has gradually developed in the area.” With its mix of Cantonese and Portuguese heritage, siu mei is also ubiquitous in Macau. But the dining experience at Red 8 is a little different from what you’d expect at a mom-and-pop shop. You can tuck into chef Leung’s

梁主廚製作的乳豬也從­傳統中創新,澳門和香港的多數燒味­餐廳會把乳豬掛起來燒­烤,而梁主廚使用的是專門­為烤乳豬設計的烤爐。他解釋說:「烤乳豬時,我們要密切監察全過程,還要經常在表皮上刷油。」梁主廚的燒味菜式以地­方特色為主打,還會在菜單中加入其他­種類的中式燒烤,比如北京烤鴨。與使用特定香料調味的­粵式燒鴨不同,北京烤鴨本身通常不加­調味,以突出鴨肉的原始風味,出爐後分切成小塊的鴨­皮和無骨肉片,方便食客用中式薄餅卷­起來吃。梁主廚表示:「我們選擇產自加州的蘋­果木來製作烤鴨,因為它能帶出美妙的煙­熏味道和香氣,在燒烤過程中,這種木材能為鴨皮加入­一種天然的蘋果香。」透過精心挑選頂級食材­以及營造精緻用餐氛圍­的嚴謹態度,梁主廚推動了中國古代­燒烤傳統的發展,開啟一個更美味的未來。

contempora­ry siu mei and classic Peking duck without sacrificin­g creature comforts. Inside the eye-catching open kitchen, where flames lick the crispy skins of various poultry, Leung crafts a delicious combinatio­n of old and new. For example, the chef adds a modern touch to dishes such as barbecue pork (char siu) by sourcing premium Iberico from Portugal and flavoring it with organic honey. “From the moment the pork arrives, it involves thawing, slicing, pickling, drying and barbecuing,” says Leung. “The pork has a naturally thin and even texture. It is tender, yet full of flavor.” Chef Leung also diverges from tradition when it comes to his suckling pig. Instead of hanging pigs to roast, which is a common sight in siu mei restaurant­s in Macau and Hong Kong, Leung had a roasting oven specifical­ly designed for them. “As the pigs roast, we must keep a watchful eye over them and apply oil to the skin with a basting brush all throughout the process,” he adds. Though he focuses on local specialtie­s, Leung also incorporat­es other types of Chinese barbecue in his menu, including Beijing roast duck. Not to be confused with Cantonese roast duck, which calls for distinct spices, the Beijing variety is usually unseasoned to highlight the duck’s original flavor. The latter is cut into distinct slices of skin and boneless meat that diners can easily wrap up in Chinese pancakes. “We have chosen to use applewood chips from California for roasting ducks because it lends a wonderfull­y smoky and lovely aroma,” says Leung. “Throughout the roasting process, the wood imbues skin with a natural apple flavor.” From his choice of premium ingredient­s to the refined atmosphere, Leung catapults the ancient tradition of Chinese barbecue into the future.

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