至臻燒烤美味FIRED TO PER­FEC­TION

永利皇宮路氹的紅8粥麵秉承中國古代燒烤傳統精粹,糅合現代烹飪優勢,帶來令人拍案叫絕的精彩美食。At Wynn Palace Co­tai, Red 8 dives deep into an­cient Chi­nese bar­be­cue tra­di­tion and serves it with a side of con­tem­po­rary flair.

Wynn Magazine - - THE DISH - by Kate Springer Pho­tog­ra­phy by David Har­tung

烤鴨、燒鵝、乳豬……永利皇宮路氹的紅8粥麵源源傳出蘋果木燒烤和煙熏木炭的溫暖香氣,引人聞香而入。餐廳以深紅色為主調,廚師長梁偉民主理的燒味系列極受客人歡迎,這種粵式燒烤以肉質鮮嫩而且表皮香酥著稱,梁主廚介紹說:「中國古代烹飪傳統會用明火燒烤肉類,紅8粥麵的燒味也是這樣。我們先用自製的傳統醬汁醃製肉類,待醬汁晾乾後放在烤架上,以明火燒烤,才是真正經典的燒烤風味。」這種古法燒烤是當今粵菜的代表作之一,其實早在北魏時期(公元386-534年間)就已經出現,在古代農業著作《齊民要術》中首次提到了乳豬。根據書中介紹,嶺南大學的蕭欣浩博士等食物歷史學家指出,燒味之所以在中國南方的廣東一帶得以發揚光大,得益於這片地區蓬勃的飲食文化,而且盛產豬肉、鵝肉和鴨肉等燒味常用食材。蕭博士曾是法國菜大廚,對香港美食和文化非常有研究,他解釋說:「隨著廣東飲食文化的蓬勃發展,廣州有許多餐廳都選擇在香港開設分店,因此進一步鞏固了當地的點心和燒味文化。而且,在第二次世界大戰和中國內戰期間,許多身懷烹飪技術的廣東人移居香港。自那時起,燒味文化就在這一帶逐漸發展起來。」燒味在澳門也非常普遍,將粵菜和葡萄牙菜的傳統融於一身。但是在紅8粥麵的用餐體驗與街邊燒味店不同,你可以在身心愜意的場景中品嚐梁主廚的新派燒味和地道北京烤鴨。在明亮的開放式廚房裡,明火為各式禽類的表皮添上酥脆質感,梁主廚巧妙地融合新舊烹飪手法,為菜式增添現代風味,例如他會從葡萄牙採購頂級的伊比利亞豬肉並用有機蜂蜜醃製,製成美味的叉燒。梁主廚說:「豬肉運抵餐廳之後,歷經解凍、切片、醃製、晾乾和燒烤等工序,這種豬肉的肉質較瘦,脂肪分佈均勻,口感柔嫩而且肉味濃郁。」

ROASTED DUCK, BAR­BE­CUED GOOSE, SUCK­LING PIG... THE WARM AROMA OF ROAST­ING APPLEWOOD CHIPS AND SMOKY CHAR­COAL WILL LEAD YOU STRAIGHT TO RED 8 AT WYNN PALACE CO­TAI. At this crim­son-toned ad­dress, chef de cui­sine Le­ung Wei Mun serves a sought-af­ter se­lec­tion of siu mei (mean­ing “roast-fla­vored”)—a style of Can­tonese bar­be­cue that’s known for its beloved bal­ance of juicy meat and crispy skin. “In keep­ing with an­cient Chi­nese cook­ing tra­di­tions, where meats are grilled over an open flame, the siu mei at Red 8 is pre­pared in much the same way,” says chef Le­ung. “First they are mar­i­nated with a tra­di­tional home­made sauce, then dried and placed on spits to grill over an open flame for a truly clas­sic fla­vor.” Now con­sid­ered a call­ing card of Can­tonese cui­sine, this an­cient culi­nary style is ac­tu­ally thought to have emerged dur­ing the North­ern Wei Dy­nasty (386-534 A.D.), when suck­ling pig was first men­tioned in the an­cient agri­cul­tural text Qimin Yaoshu. Af­ter its in­tro­duc­tion, food his­to­ri­ans such as Ling­nan Univer­sity’s Dr. Siu Yan Ho say siu mei pro­lif­er­ated in Guang­dong, in south­ern China, thanks to the area’s strong food cul­ture and abun­dance of com­mon siu mei in­gre­di­ents such as pork, goose and duck. “With the vig­or­ous devel­op­ment of Guang­dong’s food cul­ture, many res­tau­rants in Guangzhou have cho­sen to open their branches in Hong Kong, so this has fur­ther set­tled the cul­ture of dim sum and siu mei in the re­gion,” ex­plains Dr. Siu, a for­mer French chef who spe­cial­izes in Hong Kong food and cul­ture. “Fur­ther­more, dur­ing the Sec­ond World War and the Chi­nese Civil War, many Can­tonese moved to Hong Kong with their cook­ing skills. Since then, the siu mei cul­ture has grad­u­ally de­vel­oped in the area.” With its mix of Can­tonese and Por­tuguese her­itage, siu mei is also ubiq­ui­tous in Ma­cau. But the din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence at Red 8 is a lit­tle dif­fer­ent from what you’d ex­pect at a mom-and-pop shop. You can tuck into chef Le­ung’s

梁主廚製作的乳豬也從傳統中創新,澳門和香港的多數燒味餐廳會把乳豬掛起來燒烤,而梁主廚使用的是專門為烤乳豬設計的烤爐。他解釋說:「烤乳豬時,我們要密切監察全過程,還要經常在表皮上刷油。」梁主廚的燒味菜式以地方特色為主打,還會在菜單中加入其他種類的中式燒烤,比如北京烤鴨。與使用特定香料調味的粵式燒鴨不同,北京烤鴨本身通常不加調味,以突出鴨肉的原始風味,出爐後分切成小塊的鴨皮和無骨肉片,方便食客用中式薄餅卷起來吃。梁主廚表示:「我們選擇產自加州的蘋果木來製作烤鴨,因為它能帶出美妙的煙熏味道和香氣,在燒烤過程中,這種木材能為鴨皮加入一種天然的蘋果香。」透過精心挑選頂級食材以及營造精緻用餐氛圍的嚴謹態度,梁主廚推動了中國古代燒烤傳統的發展,開啟一個更美味的未來。

con­tem­po­rary siu mei and clas­sic Pek­ing duck with­out sac­ri­fic­ing crea­ture com­forts. In­side the eye-catch­ing open kitchen, where flames lick the crispy skins of var­i­ous poul­try, Le­ung crafts a de­li­cious com­bi­na­tion of old and new. For ex­am­ple, the chef adds a modern touch to dishes such as bar­be­cue pork (char siu) by sourc­ing premium Iberico from Por­tu­gal and fla­vor­ing it with or­ganic honey. “From the mo­ment the pork ar­rives, it in­volves thaw­ing, slic­ing, pick­ling, dry­ing and bar­be­cu­ing,” says Le­ung. “The pork has a nat­u­rally thin and even tex­ture. It is ten­der, yet full of fla­vor.” Chef Le­ung also di­verges from tra­di­tion when it comes to his suck­ling pig. In­stead of hang­ing pigs to roast, which is a com­mon sight in siu mei res­tau­rants in Ma­cau and Hong Kong, Le­ung had a roast­ing oven specif­i­cally de­signed for them. “As the pigs roast, we must keep a watch­ful eye over them and ap­ply oil to the skin with a bast­ing brush all through­out the process,” he adds. Though he fo­cuses on lo­cal spe­cial­ties, Le­ung also in­cor­po­rates other types of Chi­nese bar­be­cue in his menu, in­clud­ing Bei­jing roast duck. Not to be con­fused with Can­tonese roast duck, which calls for dis­tinct spices, the Bei­jing va­ri­ety is usu­ally un­sea­soned to high­light the duck’s orig­i­nal fla­vor. The lat­ter is cut into dis­tinct slices of skin and bone­less meat that din­ers can eas­ily wrap up in Chi­nese pan­cakes. “We have cho­sen to use applewood chips from Cal­i­for­nia for roast­ing ducks be­cause it lends a won­der­fully smoky and lovely aroma,” says Le­ung. “Through­out the roast­ing process, the wood im­bues skin with a nat­u­ral ap­ple fla­vor.” From his choice of premium in­gre­di­ents to the re­fined at­mos­phere, Le­ung cat­a­pults the an­cient tra­di­tion of Chi­nese bar­be­cue into the fu­ture.

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