Beauty and History: Cartago Through the Orosi Valley
On the Road Again in Costa Rica
Howler's On the Road Again series continues now with a trip through one of Costa Rica's most captivating “Vamos a Turistear” (let's go sightseeing) regions. This traditional route, while extremely familiar and popular with Ticos, is mostly unknown to foreign tourists and not on their radar. That is sad, for it crosses some of the country's most beautiful and historic areas. You can plan this drive as a one-day circular return trip, or include an optional overnight stay, depending on your time and interests.
Starting in the country's original capital city, Cartago, you can allow extra time to visit the ruins of the ancient cathedral in the center of town. The church's destruction by earthquakes was the reason for relocating the capital to San José, while the rebuilt replacement, Basilica of our Lady of the Angeles, is renowned for its wonderful 19th century Byzantine architecture. Just plan not to be there during the first few days of August, when upwards of two million visitors participate in an annual pilgrimage to the basilica.
Historic settlement
The Orosi Valley was originally populated by settlers back before San José, or even Cartago. It has some of the oldest historical sites in Costa Rica. When you see it, you'll know why it was selected first.
From Cartago, head towards Paraiso on the overdeveloped route 10. Hold on ... it gets better in just a few miles. On the right you can make a detour to visit the famous Lankester Botanical Gardens. Established by a British expat around 1910, this magnificent site covers more than 25 acres of amazing gardens specializing in orchids and other epiphytic plants. Calm, serene and beautiful, it is even dog-friendly.
From there you enter Paraiso, a lively town with a great plaza area, which has become a satellite suburb of sorts for Cartago. Parasio is the hub for our circle route of the Orosi Valley. It can be driven either direction, so just reverse the directions if you wish.
From Paraiso, head on either route 224, or route 10 until you get to 224. Heading east on 224, you will see the entire Orosi Valley open up below you. The must-stop is the Mirador Ujarrás, a huge weekend attraction for people escaping the city. It has viewpoints, picnic tables and even pavilions for public use, including bathrooms.
The view is one of my personal favorites in the country: you can see the entire Orosi Valley from Orosi to Cachí, with the lake on your right, the ruins of Ujarrás below, and the Talamanca mountains and the Tapantí National Park looming from across the valley. Look down to our next stop: the ruins of Ujarrás.
Legendary church
The town of Ujarrás contains the ruins of one of Costa Rica's oldest churches. Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Concepción was built in the 1580s during early colonial times. There are many legends of how the church was founded and the miracles performed there, including the Virgin protecting the town from an attack in 1666 by the famous pirate Henry Morgan. In 1833, following total devastation by a flood, the town and church were abandoned and moved. After being restored along with the surrounding building, the church is now recognized as a national monument, and the government has sought for years to have it declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Spectacular view
From Grifo Alto you can stop at a couple of miradors or local restaurants that give you an amazing view north to see the Poás Volcano and into the entire Central Valley at your feet. As you start down, you may wish to stop at the extremely traditional El Higueron restaurant. It's been there for as long as anyone remembers, and serves Tico specialities.
You will see the entire Orosi Valley open up below you.
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