Cyprus Today

I don’t claim to be Nigella

Kate Humble never planned on writing a cookbook — an odd thing to hear from someone who is currently promoting their first one

- By PRUDENCE WADE

“I’M not a ‘grown-up cook’,” the wildlife and nature presenter confesses. “I just make food because you need to eat to keep alive. I don’t have any kind of pretension­s of being the next Nigella or anything like that — I don’t have the figure for it, anyway.”

While Humble, 53, might not have gone to culinary school, she’s being as modest as her name suggests. In fact, her first cookbook — Home Cooked: Recipes From The Farm — was written after fans of Channel 5 show Escape To The Farm With Kate Humble practicall­y demanded it. On the show, she had small segments cooking the simple food she ate every day — and people lapped it up.

“Around that time [2020], everyone in the world was making sourdough bread,” Humble remembers. “Apart from me, it turns out — I tried like everybody else, and I killed more sourdough starters than I would care to admit. If there was a Royal Society for the Protection of Sourdough Starters, I would have been prosecuted two years ago, and in prison.”

Frustrated by everyone’s “smug photos” of sourdough on social media, one of Humble’s friends introduced her to an easy, foolproof soda bread recipe. “There’s no yeast, there’s no faffing about, it’s incredibly quick, incredibly easy — even I could do it. And I did feel like a domestic goddess when I pulled out this perfect bread from the oven.”

Humble shared this recipe on her show, and her simple style of cooking struck a chord with viewers — and ultimately led to her first cookbook.

Not that it was an easy book to write, though. While the recipes are indeed uncomplica­ted (some incredibly so — there’s literally a recipe for putting Marmite on apple slices), Humble felt challenged by doing something so out of her wheelhouse.

“I was given two months to write it — while we were filming the series, so I nearly got divorced every day that I was writing it,” she says with a wry laugh — but ultimately, the laborious process was worth it.

“I’ve always lived by the adage, which is attributed to Eleanor Roosevelt — I’ve no idea whether she actually said it or not — but apparently she said, or somebody clever said: ‘You should really do something that scares you every day’,” says Humble. “I love that idea of being challenged or pushed out of your comfort zone a little bit — not to the point where you’re terrified all the time. But it is easy to get a bit comfortabl­e profession­ally, and personally sometimes we all need a bit of a jolt or a bit of a change.

“I think particular­ly in the last two years, where everything has been so weird, a lot of the time it’s been very tempting to sit with a duvet over your head and pretend the world isn’t out there. So for me, it was really good to have what was a hugely intellectu­al challenge — it stretched me in ways I had no idea about.”

Another perk of writing the book was the opportunit­y for Humble to reconnect with her loved ones — and indeed, the book is dedicated to all her friends. “When we couldn’t all see each other, it was the perfect reason to pick up the phone, or write to somebody” — asking them about a meal they made once. “In a way it became a book of lovely memories, and that nostalgia of being together and cooking for each other — which of course we’re now able to do again, once we’ve done our bloody tests. In a way, it was a lovely way of exploring the sociabilit­y that I think is so important about food.”

Recipes from her mother, Diana, permeate the book — the person who taught Humble how to cook (“in a time where dinosaurs were still walking the earth, it was so long ago”, she adds). This was when you couldn’t easily order a takeaway — particular­ly not in the rural area where Humble grew up.

“There wasn’t Deliveroo or Uber or any of those things — if you wanted to eat, you basically had to make your food,” she explains. “The ingredient­s were pretty basic — there was no Ottolenghi in those days, no making things with incredible dried Iranian limes — it was shepherd’s pie, apple crumble, very basic stuff.”

This informed how Humble cooks today and what you’ll find in her cookbook. It’s arranged into seasons for two reasons: “The ingredient­s you’re going to get are probably going to be at their best if they’re seasonal, and the recipes you find per season are all actually what you want to eat at that time — I don’t particular­ly want to eat a big, heavy stew in the middle of summer.”

Ultimately, Humble wants her recipes to be easy, accessible and something everyone wants to try. “I’m not ‘A Cook’ with a capital ‘A’ and a capital ‘C’,” she stresses. “This is not my profession, I’ve never cooked profession­ally.

“I cook at home, in a kitchen, on a domestic cooker. I haven’t got any fancy stuff — I don’t want any fancy stuff. And also, I’m busy. I’ve got a full-time job, plus animals to look after and a farm to run. I can’t spend hours and hours sourcing special things or faffing about.”

It’s this signature candour and approachab­ility that has made Humble a TV favourite — and will no doubt help her make a splash in the food world, too. Just don’t expect her to be pushing out perfect, Masterchef­style meals any time soon. “There’s so much pressure on us all of the time to be perfect, whether we’re dressed perfectly, our make-up’s perfect, our hair’s perfect, our lives are perfect,” she says.

“Excuse my French — I just think f*** that, this isn’t about perfection. This is about food being joyful again, when we can be together, cooking for each other, but also cooking for yourself.”

Home Cooked: Recipes From The Farm by Kate Humble is published by Gaia, priced £25. Photograph­y by Andrew Montgomery.

EASY TRAY PIZZA WHAT COULD BE BETTER THAN PIZZA ON A FRIDAY NIGHT — AND THERE’S NO KNEADING REQUIRED

I’ve always felt mildly panicked at the thought of making pizza,” admits Kate Humble. “I blame my lurking fear of dough and kneading and all those things. But this is a great, stress-free way of making pizza for a gang without any fancy equipment. Better still, because you are making one big tray of pizza, no one has to wait for their pizza to be ready while everyone else is tucking into theirs.

“And although it might not win prizes in Naples for authentici­ty, it is still that winning combinatio­n of a pungently sweet tomato sauce, cheese and luscious toppings on a thin, tasty dough. That needs no kneading. Need I say more?! It does, however, need at least three hours to rise, so don’t think you can whizz this up for an instant supper. You might need takeaway for that.”

INGREDIENT­S

(SERVES 4)

For the dough 500g strong white bread flour 1tbsp fine sea salt 7g fast-action dried yeast 5tbsp olive oil 330ml warm water For the tomato sauce: 400g can good-quality tomatoes 1 garlic clove, grated or minced 2tbsp extra virgin olive oil 4 basil leaves, finely torn Salt and pepper

For the toppings 300g mozzarella, sliced A selection of toppings, such as: Chargrille­d artichokes Roasted red peppers Semi-dried tomatoes Roasted garlic Herbs Rocket

METHOD:

1. In a large bowl, mix the flour, salt and yeast until everything is evenly distribute­d. Add two tablespoon­s of the olive oil and the warm water and mix together really well until you have a smooth ball of dough. It is a bit of a sticky and messy process, but it will all come together. Or you can do it in a food processor if you have one.

2. Once your dough is ready, pour three tablespoon­s of the olive oil onto your largest baking tray (ideally around 45x30cm) and spread it over the entire tray using your hands. Put the ball of dough onto the tray and roll it in the oil to coat. Squash and stretch the dough into a small, roughly rectangula­r shape, similar to that of your tray. It won’t stretch to the edges at this point. You’re just after a shape that is similar to your tray, but smaller. Cover loosely with oiled clingfilm and leave in a warmish place to rise for at least three hours or up to 12 hours.

3. Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce. Pour the can of tomatoes into a bowl and add the garlic, olive oil, half a teaspoon of salt and the basil leaves. Using your hands, squash the tomatoes until finely pulped. You can use a stick blender if you prefer, but a bit of texture here is quite nice, so doing it by hand is best. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. You will have more sauce than you need, but it freezes really well and defrosts quickly, so you’ll have a handy supply for your next pizza, or you can use it for a quick pasta supper.

4. Once your proving time is up, and the dough has risen to at least double its size and is spreading out on the tray, preheat your oven to its highest setting. Place a shelf on one of the bottom rungs of the oven.

5. Gently stretch the dough to the edges of the tray. Try not to knock out too much of the air. Leave it somewhere warm while you assemble all your toppings, so once you come to make your pizza you can do it as speedily as possible.

6. Once ready, spread a thin layer of the tomato sauce onto the dough, leaving a clean rim around the edge which will be the crust. Top with the slices of mozzarella and anything else you like (although please resist the urge for pineapple). Then put in the oven for 10 minutes. Check it at this point to see if your pizza base has turned golden. If it hasn’t, give it a few more minutes. Remove from the oven and slide onto a wooden board for everyone to help themselves. No knives or forks needed, but napkins, or possibly bibs, are advised!

CLEMENTINE CAKE WITH AN ORANGE AND POMEGRANAT­E SALAD DON’T FANCY YOURSELF AS MUCH OF A BAKER? THIS FOOLPROOF RECIPE WILL HELP CHANGE YOUR MIND

“A self-confessed tentative cakemaker, when I attempted this one for the first time — lured by the irresistib­le combinatio­n of orangey citrus and almonds — it turned out to be nigh-on perfect,” says presenter-turnedcook­book author, Kate Humble.

“Consequent­ly, I love it and probably bake it more often than any other cake. There are many versions out there, but they all forego flour for ground almonds and use oranges, clementine­s or tangerines that are cooked until soft and then puréed. The result is a dense, fragrant sponge that is equally happy eaten unadorned, or with cream. Raspberrie­s go well, either whole or as a coulis, but I love it with this simple orange salad and will offer crème fraîche with a shake of cinnamon for those who want it.”

INGREDIENT­S

(SERVES 8)

For the cake: 375g — or as near as possible —

clementine­s or tangerines Oil for greasing

6 eggs 225g golden caster sugar 250g ground almonds 1 heaped tsp baking powder

For the orange salad: 6 oranges 1tsp orange blossom water 2tbsp pomegranat­e seeds 2tbsp toasted flaked almonds Some mint leaves, shredded

METHOD

1. For the cake: Boil the whole fruit (in their skins) in a pan of water for one to two hours until soft. Let them cool, cut in half and remove the pips. Purée the fruit halves – skins and all – in a food processor until smooth. Preheat your oven to 190°C, Gas Mark 5, and grease and line a 20 centimetre springform tin.

2. Beat the eggs with a fork, then stir in the sugar, almonds and baking powder. Once well mixed, add the fruit purée and stir until the fruit is evenly distribute­d in the mix. Pour into the prepared tin and cook for one hour. Check with your trusty skewer that it is cooked through. If it gets a bit too brown before the end of the cooking time, loosely cover with foil. Let it cool in the tin on a wire rack. 3. For the salad: Peel the oranges carefully, making sure you remove all the pith, then slice them into discs about five millimetre­s thick. Arrange them in a dish. Sprinkle over the orange blossom water and the pomegranat­e seeds. Just before serving, add a scattering of toasted flaked almonds and shredded mint leaves.

ROAST LAMB WITH GARDEN VEG, OREGANO AND FETA THIS ROAST DISH WILL HAVE YOU CRYING OUT FOR SUNNY DAYS

“A roast can feel like a rather heavy, wintery prospect for a summer day, but a roast leg of lamb somehow always feels summery to me — whereas the shoulder is more suited for winter, I think,” says Kate Humble, who has written her first cookbook according to the seasons.

“The lamb here, accompanie­d as it is with pickings from the veg patch, fragrant oregano and tangy feta, is the centrepiec­e for a plate of food that is full of sunny flavours and won’t leave you with that feeling of sleepy-eyed lethargy that comes after a hefty meal.”

INGREDIENT­S (SERVES 6)

For the lamb

1 leg of lamb, about 2kg 2 garlic cloves, sliced Olive oil

A handful of rosemary and thyme sprigs

A generous glass of red wine For the vegetables: 400g broad beans in their pods, or 200g frozen broad beans 300g French beans 100g peas (fresh or frozen) Leaves from 3 sprigs of oregano Zest of 1 lemon, juice of half Olive oil 50g feta Salt and pepper

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 200C (400F), Gas Mark 6. Make sure your lamb is at room temperatur­e before you cook it, so take it out of the fridge 20 minutes or so beforehand. With a knife, make small, deep cuts all over the leg of lamb and push a slice of garlic into each one. Rub over some olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.

2. Put the rosemary and thyme sprigs in the bottom of a roasting tin and place the lamb on top. Put in the oven and cook for about one hour and 10 minutes if you want your lamb to be pink (it is so much nicer when it is) or for longer if you want it cooked through. Remove from the oven, put the lamb on a board and let it rest for 10 minutes or so before you carve it.

3. Remove the rosemary and thyme sprigs from the tin and put it over a high heat on the hob. Add the wine to the juices and let it bubble for a moment or two to form a thin but tasty gravy. Pour into a jug and keep warm.

4. Cook the broad beans (shelled, if fresh) in boiling water for about two minutes. Drain and tip them into a bowl of cold water. Slip off the skins to reveal the bright emerald green beneath. This is, I admit, a bit of a faff, and you don’t have to do it, but they taste so, so much nicer without the skins. Set aside. Cook the peas briefly in boiling water, drain and set aside. Trim the tails off the French beans and steam or plunge into boiling water and cook until they are al dente. Drain and put in a bowl together with the broad beans and the peas.

5. Finely chop the oregano leaves and add all but a few (saved for garnish) to the vegetables. Add the lemon zest and then drizzle over a bit of olive oil to make the vegetables glossy, but not swimming in it. Squeeze over the lemon juice, season with salt and pepper and mix gently. Tip into a pretty serving bowl, crumble over the feta and scatter with the remaining oregano leaves. Carve the lamb, pour the gravy over the slices and serve the vegetables alongside.

Roast lamb with garden veg, oregano and feta

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Easy tray pizza
Clementine cake with an orange and pomegranat­e salad Easy tray pizza

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