TGD K@ K@ G@ QH HR MNS @ QD@ K CDRDQS, AuS Q@ SGDQ a water scarce stretch of land where only the most enduring and well- adapted animal @ MC AHQCKHED B@ M AD ENuMC. TGNuR@ MCR NE springbok and gemsbok roam the fossilised river valleys of Deception and Passarge. In winter, they split into smaller herds and concentrate near tree islands on the FQ@ RR OK@ HMR HM SGD v@ KKDy, NQ @ S SGD @ QSHfiBH@ K waterholes at Sunday Pan and Piper Pan. A remarkable variety of raptors and vultures @ MC @ J@ KDHCNRBNOD NE BNKNuQEuK V@ xAHKKR, titbabblers, Kalahari robins, crimsonbreasted shrikes and white- browed sparrow weavers accompany you in the valleys and in camp. B@ S- D@ QDC ENxDR @ QD OKDMSHEuK, GuMSHMF ENQ insects in the yellow grass. At night they visit camp, possibly to see if you left a morsel for them, respectfully staying at the perimeter NE SGD KHFGS. $ KDF@ MS FHQ@ ffD KNNJ CNVM @ S you from a dune, or feed peacefully on a KNMD @ B@ BH@ HM SGD v@ KKDy. TGD AQNVM GyDM@ HR RGy @ MC CHR@ OOD@ QR quHBJKy HM SGD FQ@ RR after crossing the road. A honey badger CHFR @ GNKD MDxS SN SGD QN@ C. LNMF- KDFFDC, graceful and in a hunger- fuelled hurry, a cheetah moves over Piper Pan in search of a springbok to chase. A wildebeest hurries SNV@ QCR SGD V@ SDQ, NMKy SN AD RB@ QDC Nff Ay something no one else sees, including the gemsbok and springbok drinking there. 5HDVR EQNm SGD B@ mORHSDR @ QD m@ FMHfiBDMS, overlooking the pans and valleys with their tree islands. Visiting Piper Pan is a must, not only because of the ample game, but also because you camp virtually on the pan, not far from the waterhole. Watching a full moon rise over the pan, and listening to a solitary lion roaring as it roams the dunes, weaves you into the fabric of Africa.
Subsistence in the semi- desert
Most of the campsites have pit latrines and a shelter to be used as a shower, with a zinc pail, tap and shower head. TGD OQNAKDm HR SG@ S yNu @ QD KHmHSDC HM the volume of water you can take along, especially when soloing. We had a 60- litre S@ MJ HM SGD L@ MCy, RuOOKDmDMSDC Ay 12L NE ANSSKDC V@ SDQ, @ MC @ MNSGDQ 15L DmDQFDMBy RSNBJ. 6D uRDC NMKy 55L NE V@ SDQ ADSVDDM the two of us for drinking, washing, BNNJHMF @ MC CHRGV@ RGHMF – DMNuFG SN fiKK just one- third of a standard bath.