Gourmet Delights, Bite-size Bordeaux
A treasure-trove of Bordelais culinary history, the épicerie Echoppe de la Lune chronicles the city’s tastes over the past 200 years. From infused rum to caramel-roasted nuts, all the iconic brands are here
Jock ‘Crème Tradition’
Jock was invented by Bordelais manufacturer Raymond Boulesque in 1938. A blend of maize, wheat and barley to which milk is added it will remind Brits of Bird’s custard powder. In Bordeaux everyone of a certain age will sigh fondly at the mention of this childhood staple, also available in chocolate, caramel or praline flavours. €2.90 for 500g
Moutarde ‘Diaphane’louit Frères
Created in Bordeaux in 1825, this is a slightly sweet-tasting, aromatic mustard with a base of capers, carrots and cauliflower. The jar, resembling a wine barrel has not changed since it was first produced. Until the war, all Bordelais grew up on Louit Frères.
€3.90 for 160g
Sel de Château
In the early 20th century when wine and salt from France were shipped overseas together, a storm smashed the barrels in which both products were being transported, and wine soaked into the coarse grains of salt. When spices were added the wine-infused salt proved delicious. Bouteille, €6.90 for 130g
Bouchons de Bordeaux
These crunchy, delicate biscuits are made from a paste of almonds and raisins soaked in Fine de Bordeaux the local wine-based brandy. The cork-shaped delicacies have been produced since 1976 and are a firm favourite in the region’s châteaux. €6.90 for 100g
Confit de Sauternes au safran
Chantal and Jean-marie Pelette cultivate saffron on their estate near Bordeaux. With a texture like liquid honey, and a fabulously sweet, sophisticated marriage of flavours, this jelly is a decadent accompaniment to foie gras or magret de canard.
€12.50 for 100g
Another powerful trigger of childhood memories and an iconic Bordeaux brand, this chocolate milk first hit the shelves of local stores in 1954. Since its creation, generations of children across France have grown up on Cacolac served warm in winter and chilled in summer.
€1.50 for 20cl
Thé au canelé Chris’teas
There’s no better way to bring back memories of your holiday in Bordeaux. This infusion will hit you with the exact vanilla-rum-caramel bouquet of the small, intensely sweet local cakes, traditionally made by nuns to satisfy the hunger pangs of the small children in their care.
€9.90 for 100g
Rillettes d’esturgeon Sturia
Sturgeon’s roe is enjoying a comeback in the Aquitaine region. Spread thinly on toast it’s the perfect accompaniment to your evening aperitif. Sturia’s jars of roe are lightly enhanced with white summer truffles or yuzu.
€6.90 for 90g
A Stroll through The Chartrons
For centuries Bordeaux wines were matured and stored in this neighbourhood’s cellars. English, Irish and Flemish merchants set up shop here, shipping wine back home. Now a fashionable urban village, The Chartrons is perfect for a post-prandial stroll. Browse the antiques shops and clothing boutiques on the Rue Notre Dame, dipping into cherished local hang-out, Bar Notre Dame for a tipple. Pick up a bottle of locally-produced infused rum in ‘La Petite Martinique’, then follow the peaceful back street to the intersection with the Rue Borie. Here the Museum of Wine and Trade gives a great insight into Bordeaux’s unique commercial heritage. If you’re peckish afterwards, Restaurant Le Boucher is a traditional regional brasserie with a good reputation.
Musée du Vin et du Négoce, 41, rue Borie, 05 56 901 913
Apéritif on the water
If you think the Bordelais pace of life is leisurely, then cross the river to the even more laid-back right bank. Bike or stroll over the Chaban-delmas bridge for an apéro at the Chantiers de La Garonne. This former shipyard is now a riverside beach bar beloved of the locals, who flock here on balmy summer evenings. Pull up a deckchair, plant your bare feet in the sand, then sample the locally-brewed craft beer, Darwin. The menu covers ocean-fresh clams, oysters, prawns or hot tapas, and if you’re feeling game, then sign up for a spot of kayaking or stand-up paddle at the water-sports club onsite. Parc d’activités des Queyries, 21, quai des Queyries, 33100.
Saturday night at the Movies
Why not catch a late-night film at the Utopia? Bordeaux’s arthouse cinema is housed in a gorgeously refurbished church. Arrive in advance of the screening and grab a cocktail at an outdoor table in the cinema’s bar overlooking the buzzing Place Camille Julian. The Utopia’s programme is a carefully curated selection of global cinema and the crème de la crème of French film-making. That said, un-dubbed American block-busters are shown if they are half-way intelligent. Utopia, 5, place Camille Julian
The lobby of the Utopia Cinema.