Hot Tables, Live to Eat
u Moelleuses et Persillées
An absolute must for steak lovers, Moelleuses & Persillées translates as ‘tender and marbled’. Owners Giovanni Lombardi and Adeline Pray know about sourcing beef after a decade at London’s celebrated Goodman steak houses. Giovanni also descends from a line of Puglian butchers. The meat is imported from Galicia in Spain, Nebraska, Finland and key regions of France. Concerns about air miles are not up for discussion ; this beef is the finest quality in the world. It’s aged in a glass-fronted cabinet at 1.9 degrees centigrade from 14 to 60 days, depending on its provenance, with stupendous results. Most steaks are served on the bone, imparting a richer, fuller flavour to meat already bursting with character. It doesn’t come cheap at €9-10 per 100g, but as a sensory experience it’s well worth its salt.
65, quai des Chartrons. 05 57 87 60 82
u Au Bistrot
Since it opened in 2015, this intimate eatery has been a firm favourite with the locals. Its proximity to the Marché des Capucins is a guarantee of fresh, seasonal ingredients. Perch on a stool at the oak bar and watch the staff tend to long-simmered casseroles. The chef’s speciality is perfectly executed peasant cuisine. Comforting staples like boeuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, roast pigeon and rabbit stew are all superb. Afterwards, you can agonise between the extra-buttery Tarte Tatin and the popular Pain Perdu.
61, place des Capucins. 06 63 54 21 14
Lured by Bordeaux’s abundance of high quality local produce, Scottish chef Daniel Gallacher has put down roots (racines in French) here. After foraging the markets each morning, he chalks up the day’s menu of two starters, two main courses and two desserts. Pick one of each course and it’ll set you back just €19. Gallacher trained under top French chefs including Alain Ducasse and it shows. His presentation is exquisitely colourful, and his harmonising of deep, earthy flavours with fresh, crisp ones, pitch-perfect. Great value for money, booking is a must. 59, rue Georges-bonnac. 05 56 98 43 08
u Côté Rue
Tucked down an unassuming side-street near the Musée D’aquitaine is one of Bordeaux’s most sought-after eateries. Chef Rudy Ballin wows diners with his deployment of unusual spices and seasonings, emphasising the flavours of seasonal produits du terroir - think ravioli of smoked goats cheese with Matcha Tea, or scallops with a pak choi, yuzu and clementine crème brûlée. Playful deserts include quinces with white chocolate and Tonka beans or coconut with litchi and raspberry. €61 for the evening 5 course tasting menu.
14, rue Paul-louis-lande. 05 56 49 06 49
Solena, has caught the attention of the Michelin guide who offer high praise of the tiny restaurant’s market-driven cuisine. Chef, Victor Ostronzec plays skilfully with just three ingredients per dish. Bold flavours are combined to stunning effect in his ‘surprise menus’. You’ll just have to take it on trust that the Solena experience is an unmissable one. The menu du marche is priced at €39 representing excellent value for such artful cuisine.
5, rue Chaffour. 05 57 53 28 06
u Madame Pang
First and foremost a moodily-lit lounge-bar, Harmony and Jérôme Billot’s Madame Pang also serves outrageously delicious dim sum. Cocktails are king here, the mixologists are happy to shake up the exact blend your heart desires. Asian beers and Chinese wines are another strong suit. The dim sum is fusion-style, Thai humous with peanuts works surprisingly well, as does Fish & Chips with Tartare Cantonese. Don’t miss out on the signature crunchy chicken, nor the Bao with lacquered pork.
16, rue de la Devise. 05 56 38 47 13
This cosy brasserie opened on February 1st this year and has already attracted local enthusiasm. Decor is warm and cocooning, part-industrial chic, part-scandinavian hyggelig. The young chef, Léo Forget presents poultry and meats which melt in the mouth alongside velvety vegetable purées. Artful presentation and a playful approach to celebrated local produce are his signature. The Rue Fondaudège should be on every tourist’s bucket list - this quintessential Bordeaux street showcases the city’s bourgeois charms; elegant architecture, bijoux boutiques and intimate bistrots abound. 98, rue Fondaudège. 05 57 83 38 24
Food presentation at Racines.
Dining Room at Côté Rue.
Steak Tartare at Moelleuses et Persillées.
Asparagus/pistachio at Solena.
Chocolate ‘Kayambe’ with black sesame and liquorice at Solena.