Hot Ta­bles, Live to Eat

Bordeaux J'Adore - - Contents -

u Moelleuses et Per­sil­lées

An ab­so­lute must for steak lovers, Moelleuses & Per­sil­lées trans­lates as ‘ten­der and mar­bled’. Own­ers Gio­vanni Lom­bardi and Ade­line Pray know about sourc­ing beef af­ter a decade at Lon­don’s cel­e­brated Good­man steak houses. Gio­vanni also de­scends from a line of Puglian butch­ers. The meat is im­ported from Gali­cia in Spain, Ne­braska, Fin­land and key re­gions of France. Con­cerns about air miles are not up for dis­cus­sion ; this beef is the finest qual­ity in the world. It’s aged in a glass-fronted cab­i­net at 1.9 de­grees centi­grade from 14 to 60 days, de­pend­ing on its prove­nance, with stu­pen­dous re­sults. Most steaks are served on the bone, im­part­ing a richer, fuller flavour to meat al­ready burst­ing with char­ac­ter. It doesn’t come cheap at €9-10 per 100g, but as a sen­sory ex­pe­ri­ence it’s well worth its salt.

65, quai des Chartrons. 05 57 87 60 82

u Au Bistrot

Since it opened in 2015, this in­ti­mate eatery has been a firm favourite with the lo­cals. Its prox­im­ity to the Marché des Ca­pucins is a guar­an­tee of fresh, sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents. Perch on a stool at the oak bar and watch the staff tend to long-sim­mered casseroles. The chef’s spe­cial­ity is per­fectly ex­e­cuted peas­ant cui­sine. Com­fort­ing sta­ples like boeuf bour­guignon, blan­quette de veau, roast pi­geon and rab­bit stew are all su­perb. Af­ter­wards, you can ag­o­nise be­tween the ex­tra-but­tery Tarte Tatin and the pop­u­lar Pain Perdu.

61, place des Ca­pucins. 06 63 54 21 14

u Racines

Lured by Bordeaux’s abun­dance of high qual­ity lo­cal pro­duce, Scot­tish chef Daniel Gal­lacher has put down roots (racines in French) here. Af­ter for­ag­ing the mar­kets each morn­ing, he chalks up the day’s menu of two starters, two main cour­ses and two desserts. Pick one of each course and it’ll set you back just €19. Gal­lacher trained un­der top French chefs in­clud­ing Alain Du­casse and it shows. His pre­sen­ta­tion is exquisitely colour­ful, and his har­mon­is­ing of deep, earthy flavours with fresh, crisp ones, pitch-per­fect. Great value for money, book­ing is a must. 59, rue Ge­orges-bonnac. 05 56 98 43 08

u Côté Rue

Tucked down an unas­sum­ing side-street near the Musée D’aquitaine is one of Bordeaux’s most sought-af­ter ea­ter­ies. Chef Rudy Ballin wows din­ers with his de­ploy­ment of un­usual spices and sea­son­ings, em­pha­sis­ing the flavours of sea­sonal pro­duits du ter­roir - think ravi­oli of smoked goats cheese with Matcha Tea, or scal­lops with a pak choi, yuzu and cle­men­tine crème brûlée. Play­ful deserts in­clude quinces with white choco­late and Tonka beans or co­conut with litchi and rasp­berry. €61 for the even­ing 5 course tast­ing menu.

14, rue Paul-louis-lande. 05 56 49 06 49

u Solena

Solena, has caught the at­ten­tion of the Miche­lin guide who of­fer high praise of the tiny restau­rant’s mar­ket-driven cui­sine. Chef, Vic­tor Ostronzec plays skil­fully with just three in­gre­di­ents per dish. Bold flavours are com­bined to stun­ning ef­fect in his ‘sur­prise menus’. You’ll just have to take it on trust that the Solena ex­pe­ri­ence is an un­miss­able one. The menu du marche is priced at €39 rep­re­sent­ing ex­cel­lent value for such art­ful cui­sine.

5, rue Chaf­four. 05 57 53 28 06

u Madame Pang

First and fore­most a mood­ily-lit lounge-bar, Har­mony and Jérôme Bil­lot’s Madame Pang also serves out­ra­geously de­li­cious dim sum. Cocktails are king here, the mixol­o­gists are happy to shake up the ex­act blend your heart de­sires. Asian beers and Chi­nese wines are an­other strong suit. The dim sum is fu­sion-style, Thai hu­mous with peanuts works sur­pris­ingly well, as does Fish & Chips with Tartare Can­tonese. Don’t miss out on the sig­na­ture crunchy chicken, nor the Bao with lac­quered pork.

16, rue de la De­vise. 05 56 38 47 13

u Mets-mots

This cosy brasserie opened on Fe­bru­ary 1st this year and has al­ready at­tracted lo­cal en­thu­si­asm. Decor is warm and co­coon­ing, part-in­dus­trial chic, part-scan­di­na­vian hyggelig. The young chef, Léo For­get presents poul­try and meats which melt in the mouth along­side vel­vety vegetable purées. Art­ful pre­sen­ta­tion and a play­ful ap­proach to cel­e­brated lo­cal pro­duce are his sig­na­ture. The Rue Fon­daudège should be on every tourist’s bucket list - this quintessen­tial Bordeaux street show­cases the city’s bour­geois charms; el­e­gant ar­chi­tec­ture, bi­joux bou­tiques and in­ti­mate bistrots abound. 98, rue Fon­daudège. 05 57 83 38 24

PHO­TOS DR

Food pre­sen­ta­tion at Racines.

PHO­TOS CHRISTOPHE PIT

Din­ing Room at Côté Rue.

PHOTO GIO­VANNI LOM­BARDI

Steak Tartare at Moelleuses et Per­sil­lées.

PHOTO D.R.

Asparagus/pis­ta­chio at Solena.

PHOTO D.R.

Choco­late ‘Kayambe’ with black sesame and liquorice at Solena.

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