A fes­ti­val of fla­vours


Bordeaux Moments - - Dossier / Focus -

Ano­ther year, ano­ther award. Bor­deaux’s res­tau­rants have al­ways en­joyed a good re­pu­ta­tion thanks to the ex­cel­lence of its wines and the fla­vours of the South-west’s pro­duce. Now, Bor­deaux has fi­nal­ly been re­co­gni­sed for its di­ver­si­ty and crea­ti­vi­ty. The ci­ty boasts 42 res­tau­rants that are lis­ted in the Gault & Millau guide, 26 lis­ted in the Mi­che­lin, 13 mem­bers of the Col­lège Cu­li­naire de France, 12 Maîtres Res­tau­ra­teurs and the 20-or-so res­tau­rants lis­ted by the Foo­ding guide. Bor­deaux is France s best ci­ty for di­ning, ac­cor­ding to the go­to web­site for gastronomy in­for­ma­tion, Ata­bu­la, which joi­ned with res­tau­rant who­le­sa­lers Mé­tro to pro­vide a prize list for 2017. All of this seems lo­gi­cal af­ter the ar­ri­val of fa­mous chefs (Ram­say, Ro­bu­chon then Ga­gnaire, Et­che­best and the an­noun­ced ar­ri­val of Pierre Ri­go­thier ) and the pro­fu­sion of new ima­gi­na­tive res­tau­rants and fine food coun­ters over

the last few years. If you want to dis­co­ver Bor­deaux’s best fla­vours, fol­low the pro­fes­sio­nal guides, blogs or lo­cal re­com­men­da­tions. Au­tumn brings with it ad­di­tio­nal events and get-to­ge­thers to ce­le­brate the Bor­de­lais food scene, from au­then­tic South-west tra­di­tions to the most recent fu­sions.


As this is Bor­deaux, the lo­cals take the op­por­tu­ni­ty to ce­le­brate the vin bour­ru- the new­ly pres­sed wine- with roas­ted chest­nuts and flea mar­kets; this is the Fête du vin nou­veau et de la Bro­cante des Char­trons, which marks the end of the sum­mer ac­ti­vi­ties. The ce­le­bra­tion is brigh­te­ned up by an ar­tis­tic and fes­tive pro­gramme. It’s a great oc­ca­sion for bar­gain-hun­ting, ha­ving a nibble and clin­king glasses among the tra­ders, small pro­du­cers and res­tau­rants of the neigh­bou­rhood. 37th Fête du vin nou­veau et de la Bro­cante des Char­trons Rue Notre-dame 21/10 and 22/10, 10am-7pm


The ‘S.O’ of “S.O good” has the ad­di­tio­nal mea­ning of “Sud-ouest”, or South-west. This event brings to­ge­ther Nou­velle-aqui­taine’s gas­tro­no­mi­cal ta­lents to ce­le­brate the South-west li­fe­style. To­ge­ther, chefs, pro­du­cers, ar­ti­sans, res­tau­rant ow­ners, tra­ders, and even the star­lets still in trai­ning pro­vide convi­via­li­ty and ex­cel­lence to make a unique ex­pe­rience over three days and across Bor­deaux. The Grande Halle Gour­mande (giant far­mers’ mar­ket), whistle-stop bus or ral­ly tours and a gour­met walk, a pop-up farm, kit­chen com­pe­ti­tions, bat­tles and shows, a dish and South-west cock­tail pai­ring eve­ning, a giant co­oking class, ban­quets, an ode to the oys­ter…; there is so­me­thing for eve­ryone’s tastes. The main thrust of the grand event takes place bet­ween the Pa­lais de la Bourse, the cultu­ral and fes­tive epi­centre with tas­tings, ex­hi­bi­tions and shows, and H14, bap­ti­sed as the Halle Gour­mande for the event, with its “mar­ket of ex­cel­lence” and where there are ac­ti­vi­ties for children and for grown-ups. In town, in ad­di­tion to the

gour­met tours, the grand fi­nale is the Night of Ban­quets, du­ring which nu­me­rous chefs pre­pare a banquet around a theme in unex­pec­ted places of he­ri­tage that are ope­ned spe­cial­ly for the oc­ca­sion, or in res­tau­rants that are spe­cial­ly fit­ted (18/11/2017). In to­tal, more than 30,000 vi­si­tors are ex­pec­ted by more than 60 Mi­che­lin star chefs and of­fi­cial­ly de­si­gna­ted “Best Crafts­men in France”. The Bor­deaux S.0 Good Pass helps you make the most of what’s on of­fer, with ac­cess to ma­ny ac­ti­vi­ties, ad­van­tages, tas­tings and a bag which contains the es­sen­tials for en­joying your tas­tings and will hold all your pur­chases (10€ pre­sale, then 12€)! From 17/11 to 19/11/17 www.bor­deaux­so­good.fr


Pa­ral­lel to Bor­deaux S.O Good, the pro­fes­sio­nal Exp'hô­tel fair is ta­king place at the Parc des ex­po­si­tions: a bien­nale where pro­fes­sio­nals from the ho­tel, res­tau­rant and food pro­du­cing in­dus­tries- 250 par­ti­ci­pants spread over 18,000 m2 and three hubs- come to­ge­ther to present food and drink, equip­ment and ser­vices, de­si­gn and cu­li­na­ry art. Exp’ho­tel 19-21/11/17 www.ex­pho­tel.fr


Eve­ry year, lo­vers of fine wines mark Bor­deaux Tas­ting in their dia­ries for two days of ex­cep­tio­nal tas­ting ses­sions, or­ga­ni­sed by the ma­ga­zine Terre de Vins. Half a do­zen sites around Place de la Bourse open their doors to 200 châ­teaux and do­maines from France and around the world, in­clu­ding spark­ling wine pro­du­cers. The 25€ pass dé­gus­ta­tion (“tas­ting pass”) gives you en­try, a glass, a tas­ting lea­flet and the op­tion to take part in a be­gin­ner’s wine tas­ting ini­tia­tion. Bor­deaux Tas­ting 9/12 and 10/12 www.ter­re­de­vins.com


Bor­deaux has re­cent­ly seen a new dai­ly mar­ket open: a mar­riage of qua­li­ty of ser­vice and convi­via­li­ty. 26 in­de­pendent food mer­chants ga­ther op­po­site the Ci­té du Vin, put­ting an em­pha­sis on lo­cal and re­gio­nal pro­du­cers. A ba­ker, fish­mon­gers, oys­ter sel­lers, but­chers, poul­te­rers, chee­se­mon­gers, duck far­mers, fresh fruit and veg stalls, a cof­fee roas­ter and a wine mer­chant set up their stalls side by side with a tas­ting area and a small place to eat on site. To top it off, you can al­so find a fresh food de­li, a de­li­ca­tes­sen sel­ling up­mar­ket pro­ducts, a bras­se­rie and ma­ny ac­ti­vi­ties. You can soon look for­ward to a lo­ve­ly ta­peo. Halles de Ba­ca­lan Es­pla­nade de Pon­tac Open Tues-sun, 8am-14.30pm and 5pm-9pm


If you want to dis­co­ver the lo­cal gastronomy in good hands, In­sol’eat has crea­ted two routes for you, with a do­zen dif­ferent tas­tings on each one. One of the routes is through Bor­deaux’s old town, the other is in the Char­trons dis­trict. Bet­ween each gour­met stop you can en­joy the he­ri­tage while lear­ning about the his­to­ry and hea­ring dai­ly anec­dotes. http://in­so­leat­bor­deaux.com Ano­ther gour­met tour op­tion on a Sa­tur­day mor­ning is Miam’s tours of the area around the hô­tel de ville or the St Pierre area, a tour which will awa­ken your taste buds! You will re­ceive a friend­ly wel­come and taste qua­li­ty pro­ducts from ar­ti­sans and mer­chants who are pas­sio­nate about their work. You can’t say glut­to­ny is a bad thing any­more! www.miam-bor­deaux.fr


Phi­lippe Et­che­best et Ch­ris­to­pher Cou­tan­ceau © Ar­tiste As­so­cié S.O Good. Re­pas du di­manche © APPA

S.O Good © Ar­tiste As­so­cié

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